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Messages - Chaoticone

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841
Mach3 and G-Rex / Re: ruining my new cnc from the beginning.
« on: March 16, 2015, 01:20:07 PM »
Quote
You have A slaved to X with "home slave with master axis" un-checked. This means you're configured for "gantry squaring". However you don't have any home/limits configured for the A axis. I don't use homing gantry squaring but I think I'm right in saying this is not going to end well. When X hits the home switch, A will just keep on going and try to twist your machine apart. Maybe someone will confirm/correct that.

Yes, that is correct....................... or it should be at least. But, not all motion devices handle homing exactly the same. I would check the motion devices docs. and/or other resources to see how they say it should work.

Quote
My best advice is double and triple check all your wiring and then sit down and read the manuals and watch the videos so that you can understand things like this in your config. if you haven't seen them yet they're here http://www.machsupport.com/help-learning. By all means come back if there's anything you don't understand but give them a shot first - it'll really help you to understand how things are supposed to work.

Rock Solid advise as well. Anything less is just painful.

842
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: My first CNC (plasma) machine
« on: March 14, 2015, 01:37:42 PM »
For sizing motors I have used tools (I think it was an actual program) similar to this before but can't remember the name. http://www.orientalmotor.com/support/motor-sizing.html I would think the one at the link would be pretty good but I am guessing it will give a part number for motors they offer instead of specs. (which could vary a lot from others even if they are the same size, sometimes even from the same manufacturer). Each motor will have its own specs. (torque Vs speed curve, holding torque, etc.).   

Brett

843
Tangent Corner / Re: Pancakes.
« on: March 11, 2015, 09:49:17 AM »
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Thats "Flippin' " Incr"edible" !

Priceless Russ!

That's pretty sweet Tweakie! Can always count of you to add some flavor!

Brett


844
Greg is working on the plugin to add the move off distance. For now it may help if you come off of the switches at a higher velocity. Not sure what you have going on with the Y axis. May want to check with Warp9 to see if you have the latest plugin.

Brett

845
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: My first CNC (plasma) machine
« on: March 06, 2015, 12:03:45 PM »
I have used these  http://www.opto22.com/site/pr_selector.aspx?cid=4&qs=1003  The G4 single channel has a big selection. They have all sorts of racks for them. The ones that have a separate terminal for each relay pin are the most versatile but require the most wiring. You will have to decide which modules and racks would suit you best.......... if you decide to go that route. Probably the easiest and cleanest way to get 24V IO would be to use an external motion device with the optos built in. CSLabs and Vital systems offer those. Either way (external motion device with 24V IO or optos of some kind) is going to cost more. Robust solutions almost always do though. The higher price of the external motion devices offering 24V IO is usually a wash when you consider the expense of rolling your own. I have gotten good results with both. Any time I didn't use one or the other I wished I had and made the necessary changes so I could.

Good shielded cable has the wire mesh sleeve under the outer sheath or at least somewhere that is covered (sometimes several layers deep)............... which is what you want. Heat shrinking the ends is a good idea too. You dont want to give the noise a way to easily follow your wires. You want to make the possibility of that as low as possible. Shielded cables give the best of the 2 features you want. Make it hard for noise to get to your control cables to begin with but give any that does get through the insulation (sheath) an easy path to ground. External braided shield would make more of an antenna (which is not what you want). It would give the noise an easy path to ground though but still best to avoid it I think. Igus makes great cables designed for all levels of noise immunity and they sell everything they offer by the foot if you want it that way. Again, it isn't cheap but it does work........................ if used/installed correctly. The used/installed correctly is the magic dust in the whole noise immunity recipe. You can take the best parts known to man and make a mess or the most inferior parts and make woks of art. Planing, planing and more planing should be the first line of defense. Good patrs is cheap insurance IMO.

Brett

846
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: My first CNC (plasma) machine
« on: March 05, 2015, 01:07:58 PM »
Our FAQs page and the members docs boards are some of the best (but often overlooked) resources.

http://www.machsupport.com/help-learning/f-a-q/

http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/board,78.0.html

Just read and follow the information at the link in my last reply. That should get you off on the right track and give you a fair chance at avoiding noise issues all together. You should probably browse the forum to see issues others have had and how they solved them.

Brett

847
Mach4 General Discussion / Re: Mach4 Announcements and updates.
« on: March 05, 2015, 11:19:07 AM »
Build 2259 released      approximate release date  Mar 5th, 2015

Includes the following changes that will impact the user experience:

1) This build address's a few bugs found in build 2255.

Mach4Hobby is evolving rapidly, so be sure to check that your plugin is compatible with the version of Mach4Hobby that you are running.

848
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: My first CNC (plasma) machine
« on: March 05, 2015, 10:14:05 AM »
Good on you! I hate to waste stuff too. Not sure what your using as a motion device but electrical noise can be a huge problem with plasma cutters. I don't like to have 5v outside of the cabinet of any machine. Far less likely to have issues with 24v. Have a look at this topic and be sure to read all the manuals you can.

http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,25616.0.html

You have likely done most of this already but this is from our FAQs page. I think the whole page is well worth reading.

Where do I start? Are there steps?

Yes! For anybody just beginning with CNC, the following steps are absolutely essential. Even pros with many years of experience may be able to pick up a few pointers. All machine controls are different, and even a person who has run, worked on, built, or installed CNCs for many years using any particular control will experience a learning curve when using a different control. Mach3/Mach4 is quite capable of controlling a machine, but there will be differences between it and any other controller. Also, the hardware used in a CNC can have a dramatic effect on how the software and complete system operate. The bottom line: each system will behave slightly differently. The control (no matter whose) is not capable of understanding the operator; therefore the operator/designer must be capable of understanding the control and creating their system.

1) Read the manuals. Even the most seasoned pro will often reference the manuals when they have a question. Reading the “Mach3Mill Install and Config Guide” in its entirety, and making notes of any questions it may prompt, is a great first step. It is important to fully understand how the software operates to create and use the system that is created. The knowledge the manual provides can reduce the chance of expensive or time consuming rework.
2) Watch the tutorial videos. These are fairly short and loaded with information. They can be found on the Tutorial Videos page of the website.
3)   Establish requirements and write them down. List the requirements the machine must achieve, such as the tolerance it must hold, repeatability, rapid speeds, feed rates, acceleration, coolant, power source, etc.
4)   Gather information. Collecting any and all relevant documentation available from the outset of the project. This includes any manuals or data sheets for the machine and/or the components. Components or machines with poor documentation may require careful consideration.
5)   Make an I/O map. Using a spreadsheet to list all of the I/O (inputs and outputs) and document which pin of which device they will be wired, can save effort with both configuring Mach3/Mach4 and troubleshooting any issues. This will likely be used for the life of the machine.
6)   Draw diagrams. Diagrams for the electrical, pneumatic, hydraulic, coolant, etc. systems can be important when troubleshooting a machine. If the machine is a retrofit and did not come with any diagrams, it may be well worth the time to create them.
7)   Generate a parts list. Document what parts are needed, where to acquire them, their cost, part numbers, etc.
8 )   Review, edit, and update. At this stage, there should be a solid understanding of what type of machine is desired, what parts are necessary to produce it, and a pretty good idea of how everything ties together. Chances are that along the way, required adjustments have been made, so now is the best time to update the documents accordingly to reflect these changes.
9)   Gather components. It should now be possible to make educated decisions about the components required to build the machine and feel confident they will give the desired results. If this is not the case, it is time to backtrack as far as necessary in the process to reach that comfort level before actually ordering any parts.
10) Bench test. Once the components are gathered, it is time to assemble and test them. It is advisable to initially perform this process on a bench (desk, table, work shop bench). Testing before permanently installing the hardware and routing the wires in the machine will often save a lot of time, trouble, and frustration. It is not unusual for things to fail to work exactly as expected with a new setup.
11) Assemble and test. After the hardware has been bench tested, it is time to install it on the machine. It is the responsibility of the builder to make sure that assembly is done correctly in order for the machine to meet the specifications that were set. Care should be taken to ensure that everything is done properly the first time. If questions arise, they should be researched and addressed before continuing otherwise the machine may not perform as expected.
12) Purchase Mach3/Mach4 & Enjoy! If everything has been done correctly up to this point, the only thing left to do is purchase a license for the software. If everything has not been done correctly, the decision must be made as to whether or not the results are acceptable or if things need to be adjusted.

Brett

849
Mach4 General Discussion / Re: Mach4 Announcements and updates.
« on: March 04, 2015, 10:29:08 AM »
Build 2255 released      approximate release date  Mar 4th, 2015

Includes the following changes that will impact the user experience:

1) Build 2251 had a bug with the toggle button.  If using the wxMach.set screen, a user would not be able to "Enable" the machine.  Build 2255 fixes the issue.

Mach4Hobby is evolving rapidly, so be sure to check that your plugin is compatible with the version of Mach4Hobby that you are running.

850
Mach4 General Discussion / Re: Mach4 Announcements and updates.
« on: March 03, 2015, 01:44:35 PM »
Build 2251 released      approximate release date  Mar 3rd, 2015

Includes the following changes that will impact the user experience:

1) Provisions added for Screw Error Mapping.

There are other changes behind the scenes including:

2) bool -> BOOL in InterpreterInfo struct.

3) Mach4 GUI fix for DRO events.

4) Take out Modbus assert messages.

Mach4Hobby is evolving rapidly, so be sure to check that your plugin is compatible with the version of Mach4Hobby that you are running.

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