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Messages - Tweakie.CNC

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6151
Tangent Corner / Re: First Snow of 2012.
« on: February 05, 2012, 05:13:48 AM »
And mine ;D ;D

Tweakie.

6152
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: The Laser Project.
« on: February 05, 2012, 05:11:46 AM »
Tweak: I don't see any G2 or G3 in your tap file. So I have to think that is your first attempt at your bike cutout. I was kind of looking forward to trying out my laser on your fine example of how a cut should look. Thanks for sharing, your a inspiration to all.

Hi Buddy,

This bike was cut from the .tap file I posted earlier.
Incidentally there were no G02 / G03 moves in the code for the second picture in post #576 either.

Tweakie.

6153
Tangent Corner / First Snow of 2012.
« on: February 05, 2012, 03:40:14 AM »
Well first snowfall of 2012 last night with around 300mm here in the South East of England.

I just had to do it (mental age of 10)  ;D ;D

Tweakie.

6154
General Mach Discussion / Re: ONE of THOSE days (;-(
« on: February 05, 2012, 03:19:23 AM »
Thinking totally out of the box....

The torch is loose and at that point in the work the cabling/hose gets tight, moves the torch - when the cabling/hose gets loose again the torch returns to it's correct position.  ;D

Tweakie.

6155
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: The Laser Project.
« on: February 04, 2012, 02:29:09 AM »
Hi Greg,

Those bicycles were made some time back and the dxf's are long gone. I did come across this GCode which may be OK for you (scale it to your own requirements).

Tweakie.

6156
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: The Laser Project.
« on: February 03, 2012, 07:43:12 AM »
Hi Greg,

The problem I have is knowing where to start because the cause could be so many things.

You need to be using true Acrylic (Plexiglas / Perspex) and not Polycarbonate. Cast acrylic is best.
Practice initially with rectangles (single axis movements rather than compound) this will eliminate the issue I mentioned earlier.
You need air assist to protect your focus lens from contamination but not so much air that the vaporised acrylic is blown back into the kerf.
The acrylic needs to be supported above a non-reflective surface (I use a home made grid with glass base).
Do not use too much power, just enough to cut through and no more.(Cutting acrylic is a bit like machining metal – there is an ideal speed and feed – put in too much energy and the results will be poor).
Remove any protective film before cutting (some protective film is OK and some is bad so at this stage it is best to remove it).
I achieve best results by setting my focal point about 1/3 of the thickness into the material.

Does this help at all ??

Tweakie.

6157
General Mach Discussion / Re: which software package to purchase
« on: February 03, 2012, 03:45:02 AM »
Try this free program http://www.gsimple.gr/
It is relatively quick / easy to learn and will teach you all the basics for free.

Once you are making stuff then you can start looking around.

Tweakie.

6158
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: The Laser Project.
« on: February 03, 2012, 02:39:15 AM »
Hi Greg,

I went through this a while back, tried various speed / power settings with no improvement.

Thanks to Sam, who looked closely at my toolpath, he found that my circles / curves were not smooth so the cut was not smooth and the results were rubbish.

This was typical of the problem - note how the true horizontals have been cut perfectly yet all other angles are poor.


After cleaning up the dxf the results were much improved.


Hope this helps,

Tweakie.

6159
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: The Laser Project.
« on: January 31, 2012, 07:46:59 AM »
Hi Greg,

That's great news, I am really pleased you have it all working OK.

Don't forget to post some pictures.  ;)

Tweakie.

6160
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: The Laser Project.
« on: January 31, 2012, 05:30:31 AM »
Hi Greg,

I use two different Mach profiles;
For Raster and the Mach plugin the Digital Trigger is mapped to the LPT parallel port pin that is used to fire the laser.
For Vector my GCode has M11P1 to turn the laser ON and M10P1 to turn the laser OFF then Output #1 is mapped to the LPT parallel port pin that is used to fire the laser (the P# relates to the Output Pin#).

You have probably seen this already but the schematic of my laser control is here http://www.cooperman.talktalk.net/circuit2aa.jpg  and the LPT parallel port pin (referred to above) connects to the TTL input. (The two, series TTL gates I am using are there just as a buffer and to ensure a proper 5 Volt logic switching, for the laser PSU, from the parallel port output which could possibly be 3.3 Volts).

Hope this helps.

Tweakie.

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