Messages

5791

Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: The Laser Project.

« on: February 06, 2012, 04:17:52 AM »

Hi Greg,

Dan is on the right track.

You mentioned earlier having the Digital Trigger and an Output both configured to the same port and pin and both Enabled at the same time. Conflicts can cause problems such as you are describing and which I am sure you are aware of.

This is exactly why I suggested using two different profiles Raster / Vector.

Tweakie.

5792

General Mach Discussion / Re: Auto Tool-Changer and LPT2

« on: February 06, 2012, 03:24:02 AM »

Hi Keith,

When you configure Mach Ports and Pins / Outputs you can set the Port# to 1 or 2 which then defines if it is your first or second parallel port.

The standard commands M3/M4 - M5  and M7/M8 - M9 would be probably be the easiest to use for switching your relays (that is what they were designed for) then your post- processor just has to insert these commands into your generated GCode at the appropriate place. (have another read through the Mach manual for details etc.). If you prefer to use the CB commands (Activate/Deactivate Signal) then you really need to study the CB manual to establish how CB and GCode can be combined effectively. It would take me forever to explain this properly but 99% of the details you need are in the manual.

Hope this helps.

Tweakie.

5793

Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: The Laser Project.

« on: February 06, 2012, 02:56:36 AM »

Hi Greg,

The Impact / Laser plugin uses the Digital Trigger as its output and this can be configured within Mach as Active Hi / Active Lo as necessary.

Tweakie.

5794

Tangent Corner / Re: First Snow of 2012.

« on: February 05, 2012, 05:47:34 AM »

Some people just take it to extreme 

Tweakie.

5795

Tangent Corner / Re: First Snow of 2012.

« on: February 05, 2012, 05:13:48 AM »

And mine

Tweakie.

5796

Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: The Laser Project.

« on: February 05, 2012, 05:11:46 AM »

Tweak: I don't see any G2 or G3 in your tap file. So I have to think that is your first attempt at your bike cutout. I was kind of looking forward to trying out my laser on your fine example of how a cut should look. Thanks for sharing, your a inspiration to all.

Hi Buddy,

This bike was cut from the .tap file I posted earlier.
Incidentally there were no G02 / G03 moves in the code for the second picture in post #576 either.

Tweakie.

5797

Tangent Corner / First Snow of 2012.

« on: February 05, 2012, 03:40:14 AM »

Well first snowfall of 2012 last night with around 300mm here in the South East of England.

I just had to do it (mental age of 10) 

Tweakie.

5798

General Mach Discussion / Re: ONE of THOSE days (;-(

« on: February 05, 2012, 03:19:23 AM »

Thinking totally out of the box....

The torch is loose and at that point in the work the cabling/hose gets tight, moves the torch - when the cabling/hose gets loose again the torch returns to it's correct position. 

Tweakie.

5799

Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: The Laser Project.

« on: February 04, 2012, 02:29:09 AM »

Hi Greg,

Those bicycles were made some time back and the dxf's are long gone. I did come across this GCode which may be OK for you (scale it to your own requirements).

Tweakie.

5800

Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: The Laser Project.

« on: February 03, 2012, 07:43:12 AM »

Hi Greg,

The problem I have is knowing where to start because the cause could be so many things.

You need to be using true Acrylic (Plexiglas / Perspex) and not Polycarbonate. Cast acrylic is best.
Practice initially with rectangles (single axis movements rather than compound) this will eliminate the issue I mentioned earlier.
You need air assist to protect your focus lens from contamination but not so much air that the vaporised acrylic is blown back into the kerf.
The acrylic needs to be supported above a non-reflective surface (I use a home made grid with glass base).
Do not use too much power, just enough to cut through and no more.(Cutting acrylic is a bit like machining metal – there is an ideal speed and feed – put in too much energy and the results will be poor).
Remove any protective film before cutting (some protective film is OK and some is bad so at this stage it is best to remove it).
I achieve best results by setting my focal point about 1/3 of the thickness into the material.

Does this help at all ??

Tweakie.