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Messages - Tweakie.CNC

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4491
Hi Ian,

Thank you for a very nifty bit of calculation (Hopefully that is the value that gets stored in my Var(2002)).

Tweakie.

4492
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: The Laser Project.
« on: May 30, 2012, 08:44:17 AM »
A picture of a very good friend, laser etched using GCode produced with the free software DotG.

Tweakie.

4493
General Mach Discussion / Re: Mirror image when engraving, why?
« on: May 30, 2012, 08:22:59 AM »
Hi joeqman,

I am pleased you got it sorted.

Never worry about wasting anyone's time - your solution will, in turn, help someone else and that is the way it goes.

Tweakie.

4494
General Mach Discussion / We all make mistakes.
« on: May 30, 2012, 04:20:32 AM »
I don't normally post pictures of the trash but this may be of help to others.

I recently replaced the flexible coupling on my Y Axis and everything was fine until I cut this piece (which was profiled in two passes with a 30 degree engraving point).
The new coupling was bored 1/4" and the motor shaft is 6mm - what I thought was tight obviously wasn't (but it is now  ;D ).

Tweakie.

4495
General Mach Discussion / Re: z axis moving up
« on: May 29, 2012, 11:13:27 AM »
Hi Dray,

It sounds to me as though you may be loosing steps when the cutter enters the work, just one or two every now and again would soon mount up with 3D work.

If you have reduced your Acceleration try reducing your Velocity as well.  What are your current settings for the Z axis ??

Another possible cause of this type of problem is when the cutter is not tightly clamped in the collet and moves during the course of the work (although it is usually the other way around and ends up cutting deeper).

Tweakie.

4496
FAQs / Re: Steps per JACKED!
« on: May 28, 2012, 11:50:18 AM »
Hi Grietveld,

It makes no difference if you are using the demo version or the licensed version. I have never used the calibrate function so have no idea what went wrong in your setup.

Ideally you should be calculating your steps per unit from the known information about your machine.

Here is an example of the calculation http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,12512.0.html
And here is a download link for Al's calculator http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,16315.0.html

Tweakie.

4497
Hi Rich,

In general de-magnetizers are something that are used infrequently but many machine shops have professional models (Eclipse) for de-mag'ing their cutters - I think these would work quite well, inverted and slid across the top of a machine table, and perhaps one could be borrowed or hired for the purpose.

Tweakie.

4498
Another little project for a rainy day.

After trying one of Art’s ideas of wooden clock gearing using small magnets instead of teeth I encountered a problem. First, one of my small screwdrivers became magnetic then it spread, like a virus, to most of my other small bench tools and having used some steel wool (on a previous occasion) almost all my tools were picking up minute, unwanted steel whiskers.
Having seen a de-magnetizer project on eHow I set about making one and this is how I did it.

Taking an old, unwanted, mains power unit (from a long gone printer) I removed the transformer. The Mu laminations were carefully removed, the ‘I’ sections discarded (well some have been kept as lathe tool packing pieces) and the ‘E’ sections replaced, all in the same direction. The first ‘E’ is the hardest to remove but don’t worry if it is damaged or bent because on replacement they all fit back, except one, so the damaged one can be discarded.
It is only the mains, primary, winding that is used so the secondary windings are just left open circuit.
I fitted a small piece of iron onto the centre pole using epoxy then cut an appropriate sized hole in a project box and glued in the transformer again using epoxy.

When the transformer laminations layout is altered in this way, the whole flux pattern is changed and as a result it is necessary to limit the current flowing through the winding. This is best achieved by using a mains rated capacitor, connected in series (the larger the capacitance value the larger the current and visa versa). The original mains lead was re-used and the de-magnetizer was tested - it works just beautifully and removed all the residual magnetism from my small bench tools in just seconds.

The capacitor I used was a 2uF 400Volts starter capacitor and this is connected in series with the coil. Incidentally if the capacitor used does not already contain a shunt resistor then a 1 Megohm 5W resistor should be fitted across the capacitor to discharge it once power is disconnected.

Tweakie.

4499
Hi Mitch,

Just a suggestion but try running the problem file with the torch switched off - if it runs OK then electrical noise could be the issue. In this case check your grounding connections.

Also check for GND loops - in particular the LPT cable shield should not be connected to GND at both the computer end and the machine frame if they are both, in turn, connected to earth etc.

Tweakie.

4500
Hi Buggalugs,

I am not sure I fully understand the problem.

Surely your PCB files show the track side of the board so the created drill file would also be from the track side of the board unless you have an axis direction incorrectly set-up on your machine.

Tweakie.

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