Messages

3341

General Mach Discussion / Re: Newbie

« on: May 03, 2014, 03:39:24 AM »

A couple of suggestions…

Download and run Parmon to check the operation of your PC’s Parallel Port is OK. http://www.geekhideout.com/parmon.shtml

Check continuity of your supplied LPT parallel port cable and that Pin 1 connects to Pin 1, Pin 2 to Pin 2 and so on.

Check that the Emergency Stop button on your controller is not pressed in. (this may sound stupid but some have been there).

There are many problems associated with these Chinese imported machines mainly due to lack of quality control during manufacture. With the power disconnected take a look inside the control box for bad connections, burnt components, wires off, etc. – take your time and visually examine in detail.

Tweakie.

3342

General Mach Discussion / Re: Newbie

« on: May 03, 2014, 01:55:59 AM »

Hi Shaun,

With Mach3 running, when you switch on your CNC machine do the motors 'lock' (cannot be easily rotated by hand) ?

Tweakie.

3343

General Mach Discussion / Re: Newbie

« on: May 02, 2014, 06:49:54 AM »

Hi Shaun,

Can you post the details of which CNC machine and controller that you have ?

Tweakie.

3344

General Mach Discussion / Re: Newbie

« on: May 02, 2014, 06:26:14 AM »

Hi Shaun,

Assuming you are using the PC Parallel Port for machine communication and a 32bit Win OS...
Perhaps first check Mach3 Config / Ports & Pins / Motor Outputs to verify that you have the correct Pin# assignments for your axes. Also check Port Setup and Axis Selection that Port#1 is enabled and has the correct Port Address (the correct address can be obtained from Win Device Manager).

Tweakie.

3345

General Mach Discussion / Re: Hi, Where can i get the wiring diagram to the board of a CNC 3040?

« on: May 02, 2014, 02:09:16 AM »

Hi Finland,

I can't recommend anyone in particular but I think you should buy from those that offer support for their products and have a known track record.
Perhaps someone like CNC4PC http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/index.php may have a suitable product.

Tweakie.

3346

General Mach Discussion / Re: Mach3 problems

« on: May 01, 2014, 02:47:09 AM »

Hi Craig,

I am pleased that it is all resolved. 

Thanks for coming back with the answer.

Tweakie.

3347

General Mach Discussion / Re: controller type for SolidCAM

« on: April 30, 2014, 03:47:17 AM »

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for a post processor for solidcam,

I've a mill-turn    (4 axes)

Any Help will be very very appreciated !

Thanks

As already said the standard Fanuc post should work fine. If you still have problems then perhaps contact SolidCAM support and ask their advice.

Tweakie.

3348

General Mach Discussion / Re: Epilog Summit Laser Retrofit

« on: April 30, 2014, 01:48:31 AM »

Sounds like a great idea, I think the Arduinio is ideally suited to the task.

Tweakie.

3349

General Mach Discussion / Re: Epilog Summit Laser Retrofit

« on: April 28, 2014, 12:03:15 PM »

Sorry, the PCB layout for the tickle pulse generator may take me some time to find (it was a long time ago and it is on my PC somewhere) but the circuit is simple enough so you should not have too much trouble to lay out your own PCB.

The problem with using the Mach3 PWM is that the tube's tickle pulse requirements are a PRF of 5kHz with a pulse width of between 1uS and 1.5uS. If the pulse width is too great then the tube will lase and this defeats the object of the exercise. There is probably a way this could be achieved from Mach3 by using the Charge Pump (Laser Standby) but I have not fully investigated this possibility.

Tweakie.

3350

General Mach Discussion / Re: Epilog Summit Laser Retrofit

« on: April 28, 2014, 11:10:53 AM »

I wasn't suggesting you build the whole controller, just the tickle pulse generator. 

However, a lot of people have built my laser controller now and it seems to be successful - I certainly don't have any problems with it.
My PIC programmer is years old and I can't even remember what type it is but I think any PIC programmer would be OK as long as it is capable of HS (20Mhz) mode.

Unfortunately PCB's cannot be laser cut and mine was intended to be isolation routed. If you were to acid etch the PCB please remember to leave all the background copper as this forms an important GND plane.

My recommendation, if you decide to build the controller, is that you do get a complete PIC programming package which will allow you to change the software, if necessary, to suite your particular current or future needs. It's all good fun as long as you can find some way of justifying the expense. 

Tweakie.