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Messages - dfurlano

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161
General Mach Discussion / Re: more active forum ?
« on: February 19, 2007, 10:16:03 PM »
Active is relative to the topic. 

Mach3 or CNC? 

There are plenty of CNC forums but do you want machining, retrofitting, programming, or design? 

I think if you look around you will find what you are looking for also there is a links button at the top of the page that has a lot of good information.

Dan.

162
Marcel,

I will try 0.01" on the next piece I cut.  You are probably correct 0.005" is a little light.

Brett,

Since I am not going to retire anytime soon I was thinking of another high tech solution!

I am thinking of buying this flex shaft:

http://www.proxxon.com/us/images/produkte/28628.jpg

And see if i can run it through the spindle like I did with this dremel flex cable:



Then I would just need to mount the Proxxon grinder http://www.proxxon.com/us/images/produkte/38481.jpg and make a collar clamp that would mount around the spindle hole and clamp the flex cable in place.

What ya think?

Dan.

163
Brett,

I found this info on the web http://www.2linc.com/engraving_assistance.htm#Spring%20Selection and it is consistent with other info that I have read that the spindle speed should be well above 3000 rpm. 

I would really like to get a high speed spindle but I am sure the cost would be prohibitive.  I did think about using a Proxxon mounted off center but I have so little travel and table room that it is not practical for a lot of the machining I do.

Dan.   

164
I  use a single end carbide split cutter from Rutland Tools:

https://www.shoprutlandtool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=24702&langId=-1

I run the spindle as fast as possible which is about 2500 rpm and I go 1.2 IPM and I only remove .005 a pass.  Figuring each pass is about 5 minutes it takes less then 30 minutes to run the complete cycle.  I could be more aggressive in speed and depth of cut but I would rather wait then have the cutter go dull.

165
I documented how I make the compass inserts (look at the Travel Pen version 2 post if you do not know what these are).  I am sure I violated every good machining practice know to the modern world.  So no laughing or scolding!

First I needed to figure out a cheap way to re-sharpen the carbide engraving cutters.  I know you should use a diamond wheel but like I don't have a diamond wheel, so anyhow I made a fixture to grind the engraving cutters using a linear slide and a dremel:



Here is a better picture of the linear slide.  I mount the cutter in the dremel turn it on low and move the slide into the grinding wheel.  A few sparks later and the cutter is sharp.



I start out by mounting a lathe chuck and putting a wood post in the chuck that is the same diameter as the 3/4" sterling silver disks.  I face the wood off to ensure it is flat.  I use maple which is hard and somewhat durable.



I then super glue the sterling silver disk to the wood post and indicate the disk to find center.  I also take a cut around the outside of the disk with the cutter in the mill.  This cleans up the outside since they are punched out and ensures that everything is on center.



Here is a screen shot of the Mach3 program with the compass that is to be machined.  We're ready to rock n roll!



I then put in the engraving cutter and start the program. This is a shot with my miniature high tech coolant system running:



As an aside here is my miniature high tech gravity feed cooling system.  Note the gravity feed is located conveniently on a near shelf.  The source container doubles as a high tech misting system I bought at Wal-mart.  The precise diameter flexible tubing (I am told it is also used on aquariums) runs to an extruded square brass tube that is held to the machine head with an indicator clamp.  If you look real close to the left of the coolant source container you can also see my high tech air pump I use when I cut wood (I am told is is also used in aquariums!)



And of course you need a high tech recovery system, no waste here!



Here is the disk after the first pass;



This is how I remove the disk after the machining is complete.  I use a sheet rock knife and wedge it between the disk and wood and it comes off easily.



This is a picture of the finished piece.  The flat one closest to you is the one that was cut I tweaked the image a bit from the last one.  I then take the wood block and aluminum shaft and bend the disk to the proper curve.  Once that is done I then enamel the engraving as you can see as the blue curved compass.  This one has not been buffed so it has a mat finish.



The last image it the cutter after the engraving is complete.  Not much of the point is lost.



Any comments let me know.  Thanks for looking.

Dan.

166
General Mach Discussion / Re: Shuttle Pro
« on: February 12, 2007, 01:24:37 PM »
I haven't loaded the latest version of Mach3 but it is very simple to program through a drop down menu that configures the shuttle.  I do not even know if there is a separate .xml for just the shuttle.  I think it will be easier for you to just configure the shuttle the way you work.

Dan.

167
Tangent Corner / Re: CNC Lathe
« on: February 03, 2007, 06:32:44 PM »
Thanks Graham now I now what CNC lathe features to look for.

Dan.

168
Tangent Corner / CNC Lathe
« on: February 02, 2007, 10:11:18 PM »
I really do not know much about CNC lathes.

I am interested in this lathe because it can do complex threading.  http://www.microkinetics.com/btlathe.htm Threads that have multiple leadings, tapered threads, and almost any pitch.   There is a special indexer that you use to control the lathe spindle.

My question is do most CNC lathes have this capability?  When I look up other CNC desk top lathes they say they can do threading but they do not call out the functions like on this web page.

Thanks

Dan.

169
I have not thought about a price as of yet.  Only because I need to optimize the time it takes to make one.  I use a 4 axis Grizzly mini mill that I retrofitted to go all the cutting and engraving.  I enameled the compass engraving.  Next setup i will take some photos.

As for not taking pens on a plane these are the ones that WILL get taken if you carry them on board:

This is a cartridge pen that I have been working on the design for a while.  I am now "happy" with the clip which I make from a casing, Also it is a real pain to solder the clip to the top casing.  These brass casings are thin and not made of the best materials.  They tend to pit when heating them up.






170
This took a while to do but I finally got it done.  I took a few quick shots.  Sterling Sliver and ebonite with blackwood and pommelle.

I engraved all the pieces.  The compass, clip and center band say "To travel hopefully" from Robert L Stevenson's "To travel hopefully is a better thing then to arrive"

 




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