Messages

1

General Mach Discussion / Re: Taig CNC mill Z not working properly

« on: June 05, 2013, 05:40:25 AM »

Yawn,  too early to be typing anything.  Opps, forgot to say that I am using high-helix 3-flute end mills. 


Bob - back to the bed.

2

General Mach Discussion / Re: Taig CNC mill Z not working properly

« on: June 05, 2013, 05:36:11 AM »

I use my Taig mill a lot and get very good results with 1/4 inch end mills, but I do slow the plunge rate down a lot.  The Taig doesn't really like anything much larger than 1/4.  Have used 5/16 with some success, but a 3/8 will really  bog it down.

Best results have been achieved using high helix center-cutting carbide tools.  They cut 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep in one pass (6061 aluminum) without a problem at a speed of F5.    Have not pushed any harder than that.  Generally requires little or no polishing for a really good surface finish.

Bob@BobsShop

3

Mach3 under Vista / Re: Mach 3 and Taig Micromill inaccurate

« on: April 29, 2013, 08:28:01 AM »

I have been using MACH 3 with a Taig mill for sometime now and am very pleased with the results I have gotten.  Repeatability and accuracy have been very good whether making small or large pieces that stretch the limits of the bed.   The same has been true when using the 4th axis to engrave rings and other cylindrical objects. 

If you want I can send you the settings I use and you can see if your results are better.

Bob@BobsShop

4

G-Code, CAD, and CAM discussions / Re: Basic 3D Help

« on: March 24, 2013, 07:07:57 PM »

Hi, Russ

Well, when it comes to 3-d I am a 1-DUH guy!

Guess my approach to this would be too simple and probably wrong, but looks like it would produce a tapered line starting at y0 z-.05, moving to y.75 with z moving up to -.0285 as it traverses (should give you a taper and the radius you want) then cutting the last .25 inches at -.0285.

I am assuming as you stated that you have the cube.  If not, then I am completely wrong (not unusual).

Bob@BobsShop

5

General Mach Discussion / Re: 4 axis Job Display problem

« on: November 25, 2012, 05:20:56 PM »

Thanks.  Did not realize that my screenset was not up-to-date.  Fortunately, the old screenset did not appear to affect anything I had cut before.  Have made the changes to both my office and shop Mach3.

Bob@BobsShop

6

General Mach Discussion / Re: 4 axis Job Display problem

« on: November 24, 2012, 11:24:34 PM »

Just pulled mach up.  Says this is version 3.043.066.  Checked Settings and it still shows Rotation Diameters

Bob

7

General Mach Discussion / Re: 4 axis Job Display problem

« on: November 24, 2012, 05:08:02 PM »

Difficult to determine your problem without being there.  But I think you have at least two settings wrong.  I do some circular engraving on ring faces that I have cut.  Attached (apologize if the screen shots don't help) are three different versions of a ring with a skull, crossed- guns, and the script "Bad Company," I engraved.  The two critical settings are to Enable the A Axis (in ports and pins) and the correct diameter set in the "Settings" key.

The 1 Inch version shows the ring correctly.  The od of the ring was 2 inches.   The "A"  Rotation Diameter in the Settings screen was set to 1.00

The 2 inch version skews the ring slightly and makes the X Axis appear smaller.  No changes were made to the code, but the "A" Rotation diameter in the Settings screen was set to 2. 

The 5 inch version skews the ring completely with the X Axis shrinking greatly.  No changes were made to the code, but the "A" Rotation diameter in the Settings screen was set to 5.

The fourth pic was made without the A Axis (in Ports and Pins) being enabled.  A totally wasted version.

I maintain two profiles in the Mach3 Loader.  1 is set for 3 Axis only.  The other is set for 4 Axis.  This saves me the trouble of remember what I have to set each time I switch from one project to the other.
 

8

General Mach Discussion / Re: Z-Axis Repeatability: Small Changes

« on: November 19, 2012, 06:16:42 PM »

How far are you lifting your quill (z) after cutting.  A technique used on older manual mills and lathes is to back out several revolutions from the surface you are working on then cranking back in the same amount.  Using this method can compensate for any sloppiness in the the lead screw.  I use a small taig mill that doesn't have ball-screws.  When engraving metal, I generally back out .100 of an inch.  Yes, this does increase the time it takes to finish a job.

Although this small mill's repeatability is questioned my some, I find my cuts are consistent.  Have to be honest though.  I doubt the cuts are within .01 mm.  I will be interested in seeing how you address and solve this concern.

Bob@BobsShop

9

Share Your GCode / Re: Machine part, from part to g-code.

« on: August 24, 2012, 07:25:17 AM »

Had a BFO (blinding flash of the obvious) when I woke this morning.  I gave you code for  making a cutout of the part rather than coding a female mold.  Like I said, I have never made molds.  Let me know if you can do anything with the dXF I sent you or if you want me to recode for a female mold. 

Bob@BobsShop - back to doing what I sort of understand 

10

Share Your GCode / Re: Machine part, from part to g-code.

« on: August 24, 2012, 12:03:33 AM »

   OOOPS!

Noticed at least one mistake in the code (and there may be others!)

Steps that the end mill steps over when pocketing from .3 percent to 50 percent.  Makes a large difference in the number of milling steps.  Revised file is attached.

Bob