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Messages - natefoerg

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1
General Mach Discussion / Re: Mach3 turn threading problem with Z feedrate
« on: February 08, 2020, 09:15:32 AM »
Try programing the thread start further away from the work. Also, you might look at your spindle tach and make sure its got enough slot to get a good solid pulse from the tach sensor back to mach.

also, check motor acceleration settings and see if lowering them helps.

Also, my experience is with a slot too small on the tachometer disc, i could not get threading to work. Opened up the slot and it works fine for me. I do not think the mach rpom dro reads as accurate as you might think it does. I suspect this dro causes problems as it does not always appear to be tracking exactly the rpm.

These are just best guesses. based on past expierence.


2
General Mach Discussion / Re: Mach 3 problems with axis
« on: February 06, 2020, 09:06:50 PM »
Are you unintentionally reading the axis dro's with the software in "machine Coordinates" mode?

3
General Mach Discussion / Re: Feed rate accelerating/decelerating question.
« on: February 06, 2020, 08:58:03 PM »
I would just hand write Gcode for this. Not sure Mach has a setting that would do exactly what you want.

I would do linear moves, puncuated with different feedrates. Should approximate what you want. Their m ay be an elegant way to do this in G code, but I dont know. Writing the code should get you closer.

4
General Mach Discussion / Re: Motor only turns one direction
« on: February 06, 2020, 08:47:34 PM »
Have you assigned the step and direction pins correctly?

what Pins are you sedtting mach to out put step and direction signals from?

5
General Mach Discussion / Re: A-axis
« on: February 06, 2020, 08:44:44 PM »
Mach 3 config, hotkeys page.

6
Does it appear to you that I have not toasted the photodiodes? given the measurements I have listed above.

My apologies. I think I was mixing up A and O because I was skiping around so much trying to wrap my head around things. thus creating confusion for you that was unnecessary. Rest assured that I am doing my best to not waste your time and am not trying to be lazy and just ask for everything done for me. I am so happy that I am finally learning this stuff. Its been a dream of mine for years to understand things like resistors, diodes, transistors, timers, ics, etc. I only know enpough to be dangerous, but whole heartedly want to get to a place where I am proficient in basic electronics, plc's, servo drives, communication etc. My strongest interest in life is machine tools (particularly Parker Majestic, Moore and Monarch) so understanding the electronics operating everything and how they do it will give me a better understanding of the whole thing. I get the mechanical side of things fairly well. I can correct geometry with scraping and rebuild spindles and such, but have onle ever had a vauge understanding of how 'real' machines work.

Hobby control I am familiar with. Running industrial controlled machines I have done, but knowing how the industrial machines work is a whole other level of understanding I have a strong desire to achieve.



BTW, I was careful not to short out the internal 24dc like I did before. I thought the clicking sounded 're-set-ish' and so I pulled the meter leads after short observation. fortunately the protective circuitry appears to have saved me.


7
I have done as you suggest here-

"Just as a comparison please put the multimeter lead from the 200mA socket to the V/Ohm socket and with the dial set to 20kOHM
measure the resistance between pins 35 and 37 with the drive de-powered. I would expect a shade under 2kOhm."

I using the 20k ohm setting. I get .88 measured between pins 35 and 37.

8
So, looks like the photodiodes checkout. I have rechecked my multi meter porb connections and made sure its set up to measure current. set to 200m on the dial, With the drive enabled, pin 17 connected to 35, and connecting the black porobe to the pin 14 (common), and the red probe to pins 37 and 41 respectively, I get readings of 22.5mA


9
Checking the Resistance withg the 20Ohm scale on my meter with Com correct and the Red probe connected to the 200mA, when I check resistence I get 1.28

I think this is in line with your prediction of under 2Kom

10
I am thinking that if I now hook up a 1Kohm resistor to the output of my bobs step and direction pins, and then to pins 37 and 41,  then hook up my BOB's ground to the ASDA drives pin 14, I would have a way to test the drive again under Mach3 control.

Just checked, no dice. Did not see any response from the drive.

Thinking about all you have written and rereading it time and time again (thank you so much btw) I am thinking that if the photo-diodes are still working (believe verified) then possibly its that I am missing the transistors. because the drive does not want 5vdc signal. It wasnts 24vdc, or as close as I can get to that.

Seems to me their are resistors for current limiting to the photo-diodes, and resistors to act as the 'pull up'  then, and transistors are to amplify the 5vdc signal that is input into the ASDA drive. Then the ASDA drive 'sees' thew amplified voltage, if the voltage is in a range that ASDA will accept, then the drive will respond to the imput.

Do I have this somewhat correct?

What is the job of the photo-diodes? I am thinking they provide a means of insuring the pins 37 and 41 are unable to allow any current, signal or voltage from being accidentally output from the drives pins 37 and 41 and thus to the machine controller. I am also thinking that if their were a failure of the drive that could send dangerous voltage through 37 and 41(somehow), that the photo-diodes provide opto-isolation so that nothing can be output past the photo-diodes and out of the drive to the controller thus making things much safer. But hey, these are just my best guesses.

Thanks so so much for your input! I am grateful for your time and effort.

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