991
Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) / Re: AL54b (lathe) project from New Zealand
« on: November 11, 2010, 10:40:42 PM »
Hi
Your AL54B looks very similar to my AL from Hare&Forbes. I have had it for a number of years now.
Comments:
* They are both made in China, with the inevitable consequences. However, the consequences are not always as expected. I find the bearings are still pretty good, the headstock alignment is pretty good, but all the fasteners are rubbish. Any cap-heap bolr which is active will have to be replaced with an Unbrako.
* I hope the ball screw has the same pitch as the lead-screw you are replacing, because the back-gearing is designed to work with the lead screw to get all the thread combinations. As this is very unlikely to be the case, you may have an interesting time getting the thread cutting going. Good luck.
* The use of a ball screw may place extra loading on the main lead-screw bearings. Check adequacy.
* The back gears do need changing for different threads. I hope you have left enough room/access for this. In addition, those cast iron gears get extremely filthy with iron and carbon dust after a while. Trust me, I KNOW!
* I have the standard small Qwik-change tool-post holder on my machine, and haven't had any problems with its rigidity. But I tend to machine fairly gently most of the time.
* The gibs on the saddle do need regular adjustment in my experience. But, that is not too difficult.
* I still have the 3 and 4 jaw chucks which came with the machine of course, but these days I tend to use an ER32 collet system as much as possible.
Cheers
Your AL54B looks very similar to my AL from Hare&Forbes. I have had it for a number of years now.
Comments:
* They are both made in China, with the inevitable consequences. However, the consequences are not always as expected. I find the bearings are still pretty good, the headstock alignment is pretty good, but all the fasteners are rubbish. Any cap-heap bolr which is active will have to be replaced with an Unbrako.
* I hope the ball screw has the same pitch as the lead-screw you are replacing, because the back-gearing is designed to work with the lead screw to get all the thread combinations. As this is very unlikely to be the case, you may have an interesting time getting the thread cutting going. Good luck.
* The use of a ball screw may place extra loading on the main lead-screw bearings. Check adequacy.
* The back gears do need changing for different threads. I hope you have left enough room/access for this. In addition, those cast iron gears get extremely filthy with iron and carbon dust after a while. Trust me, I KNOW!
* I have the standard small Qwik-change tool-post holder on my machine, and haven't had any problems with its rigidity. But I tend to machine fairly gently most of the time.
* The gibs on the saddle do need regular adjustment in my experience. But, that is not too difficult.
* I still have the 3 and 4 jaw chucks which came with the machine of course, but these days I tend to use an ER32 collet system as much as possible.
Cheers