Machsupport Forum
Mach Discussion => General Mach Discussion => Topic started by: HimyKabibble on September 19, 2008, 07:46:16 PM
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I'm getting really tired of sweeping/vacuuming up chips several times per day, so I've decided it's time figure out how to enclose my mill table, to contain the mess, and while I'm at it, I'll switch to flood coolant, rather than mist. So, I'm looking for advice on how to accomplish this cheaply, and effectively. Here's my current thinking:
Fabricate some sheet metal pans to attach to the saddle. These will extend outward from the center, with a plexiglas shield 6" or so in front of the table, and another mounted to the machine base in the back. Chips will then hit one of the plexi shields, fall down into the tray, and be collected there, while coolant will be strained and drop back into a reservoir. The front Plexi piece will be easily removable, for getting to the table. I'm thinking the sides will be more like baffles than anything else, and will be attached to the table, perhaps just in the ends of the T-slots. Perhaps with rubber pieces tying these side shields to the front and rear shields.
One of the complications is I have to be able to accomodate my vice, which hangs 6-8" beyond the front of the table, so simply affixing Plexi to the table itself won't cut it.
I'd be really interested in how other people have done this, and especially in seeing pictures. I don't want this to turn into a major construction project, and also don't want to spend $$$$ on it. Fortunately, I'll have access to lots of Plexiglas, as leftovers from a project I'm doing.
Regards,
Ray L.
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Ray,
Had the same problem, coolant, and chips all over the shop.
Just a 6 0r 8 inch shield around the table isn't much help, especially with flood coolant.You don't only want to keep the tool and material cool,
but you want enough coolant to wash the chips away,from the tool. Say your doing a circular pocket. the chips lay there in the pocket and you just keep running the cutter
through that pile of chips, sucking them through the cutter again. You want enough coolant pressure to keep that pocket washed out.
Machining aluminum, (which I do a lot of) requires some high rpm, and the coolant wants to flood your shop.
On my Yamazen mill, I totaly enclosed it in sheet aluminum I had. to almost 6 feet high, and once in a while will still spray over the top.
Enclosed pic.
This all depends on how big your machine is.
Bigger is Better
Ed V
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Very nice Ed, Alu must be a lot cheaper in the USA than it is here ;)
Hood
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And Monogrammed too! :o
Kristin
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NO it's not cheap, but had it laying around. all the panels are 16 gage,
except the "monogramed " panel is 1/4" which is the main support.
Had to farm out the bending.
The back panels are mounted to the machine base as shown, but added another 12"to top.
Saves a lot of mess.
Ed
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Looks really good Ed, I may end up doing something like that myself if the guard that came with the Beaver mill does not suffice.
I do a fair bit of Alu fabrication on the boats but I never seem to have enough left over from jobs to do much with :(
Hood
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Fantastic, Ed, looks great - :)
Dave
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Good job Ed.............. looks good............ looks real good............. shoreanuf pertty. ;D
You done good.
Brett
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Ed,
I am planning on doing similar for my Beaver mill and was just wondering the thickness of the Alu you used. My enclosure will need five 2500mm x 1250mm sheets (8' X 4' approx) and I am thinking its going to have to be steel for cost reasons.
Hood
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Hood,
Talk to one of your local sheet metal / duct fabrication shops and ask about putting some diagonal breaks in it to
cut down the thickness and stiffen the panel. They could probably give good advice just from experience.
May save some money and work.
RICH
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Might just do that Rich, my pal works for a company that does that type of work so I will see what he thinks.
Hood
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Hood,
I would use 16 gage or 18 gage. All my corners have a 1 inch 90 degree bend. If you want, I could post more pics.
the end panels held in place with 2 latches, remove for cleaning out .No tools required. :D
Ed
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More pics would be good Ed, mine is going to have a slide out tray at the bottom for cleaning the chips out but I also need it to be removable at the side as my workshop space is limited. If I dont do that I will either have to climb over the top of the mill or crawl under it if I need access to the right hand side cabinet that has the hydraulics.
Heres a pic of what I a thinking so far, the screen will slide along the front.
Hood
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Hood,
Looks good, almost like mine. I'll take some pics and post.
Ed
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Looks like we have a solidworks user among us. How versed are you with it? You do know that now you have placed yourself as "tech support" for me. (unpaid, but grateful ;D ) I've used quiet a lot of 3d packages, and SW is the "dogs dangly bits" as someone would say. :D . I've fabricated a few miles of ducting in my time, and cross-breaking that large of a sheet would definitely help. You should also notice a sound improvement too, if the chips hitting it bong it like a drum.
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Hood,
Looks good, almost like mine. I'll take some pics and post.
Ed
Well I suppose the shape of a knee mill dictates the shape of the enclosure, was thinking of just a square box but that would deprive me of storage space (the floor) and unfortunately thats about the only place I have for storage :( And if you dont believe me heres a couple of pics, and this is after three weekends of tidying ;D
Hood
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Looks like we have a solidworks user among us. How versed are you with it? You do know that now you have placed yourself as "tech support" for me. (unpaid, but grateful ;D ) I've used quiet a lot of 3d packages, and SW is the "dogs dangly bits" as someone would say. :D . I've fabricated a few miles of ducting in my time, and cross-breaking that large of a sheet would definitely help. You should also notice a sound improvement too, if the chips hitting it bong it like a drum.
Sam it is my pal that is an expert with all things SW and AutoCAD but then again that is his job as he is a designer in a sheet metal/ducting place.
I was working on some stainless welding on a boat thats getting built out the back of my workshop today and that gave me an idea , it is GRP and there is a place in my home town that makes the stuff ( http://www.scomp.co.uk/ ) and so on Monday I will give them a call and see what kind of cost it is for some 6mm thick sheets.
Hood
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Hood,
Looks like you need a bigger shop. ;D But no matter how big, it's never big enough.
Here's some pics of my mill containment.
Have room under for shop vac and 5 gal pails .Ends come off for cleaning.
Only thing I don't like is you have to remove it all to do any machine repairs.
Its all screwed together with stainless 10-32 button heads.
Window frames are made from 1/2" alum plate with 1/4 recess for plexiglass.
Ed
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Shop pics, saws, grinders, drill press in other room.
The yellow thing is the trans for my tow motor I'm redoing.
Ed
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Made these today .free spinning wheel inserts for tow motor. 12" diameter 3/4 " thick.
Programed manualy. 1 pocket. rotate 6 x and mirror. WHAT? To much time on my hands.
Hey, I'm retired. It's suppose to be this way. ;D
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A tricked out tow motor. That's something I can honestly say I've never seen before. How far from being completed is the beast? Nice shop ya got there.
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Lookin good ED. We need to start a Pimp my Hyster Forum. LOL
Brett
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Hood,
Looks like you need a bigger shop. ;D But no matter how big, it's never big enough.
Well I started off with just the one part (part with lathes in it) but at that time I only had the Bridgeport, the Colchester Student the small bandsaw and the pillar drill for machinery. I then got a Colchester Triumph and it was still just big enough, then I got the Computurn and because of that there was no room for my welding stuff so I had to get the unit through the back and knocked a hole through the wall to join them. Then got the bigger bandsaw and then the Beaver mill and now I am running out of room in there :( Just wish I had space like most of you USA guys have.
Thanks for the pics, gives me some good ideas but at the moment I will wait and see what the cost of the GRP panels is as that might be the way to go.
Hood
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Tow motor body and trans.
Making lots of Alum billit parts. Had it for over 20 years.
never seen one customized, till now. LOL ;D
Ed
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Hood,
If you do use sheet metal or alum :D I suggest the following. See pic
My end panel , back , and front all have the 1" 90 degree corner. Won't get no leaks that way. they overlap each other.
The bottom of the end panel has a 1" x90 in and another 1" x 45 down. 2 latches near the top hold the end panels in place.
You can remove the end panels for cleaning out, or if you get a long part, or to pick up your vise if you drop it. ;D
Or, if you moved closer, I could set you up.
Ed
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Hood,
Or like this , showing latch location. Polished Aluminum. ;D
Ed
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Forgot your windows.. ;D
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Ha ha thanks Ed
:)
Hood
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Did you ever get the Hyster finished? I Looked on your photobucket page but didn't see any pics of the completed project.
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Yeah, what say you Ed?
Brett
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LOL , ya , the Hyster is on the back burner , and the burner went out. Just to many projects for an old retired guy.
And then theres Britt to follow after everyday, picking up after her. Getting sick of slipping on Banana peels.
Brett , can I ship her back ? ;D
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Brett , can I ship her back ? ;D
Why just her back? I would be sending all of her ;D
Hood
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H :D :D D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Brett , can I ship her back ?
Sure, but there is a 95% damaged goods re-stocking fee.
;D
Brett
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Brett ,
damaged ? ???
She was when she got here , She at least uses the toilet now , :D and stays out of trees , :D probably cause bananas don't grow here.
But , only a brother could know her better than me. ;D
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Lier!!!!!!! She was perfect before you got her. Just like my ex-wife. ;D ;D ;D
Brett