Machsupport Forum

Mach Discussion => General Mach Discussion => Topic started by: trev36 on June 05, 2008, 12:39:21 AM

Title: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: trev36 on June 05, 2008, 12:39:21 AM
I'm using ECS motherboard with AMD AM-2 socket 1.9 ghz Sempron CPU 1Gig of DDR2 memory and windows XP SP2 along with C10 breakout board. Everything was fine when I engaged the drives the motors locked and led on the breakout board and drives where on. I connect the paraell port to computer turn computer on then Mach-3 then engage stepper drives and pop goes the breakout board (smoke) and screen flashes and then my computer fried. This is my second computer. Need help. I checked bios prior LPT1 assigned 378 and set to normal. I ran Mach driver test also. My cable is made by Belkin. Mach 3 set up correctly using sherline 1/2 pulse mode for my stepper drives as required. I really need help.

Thanks

Travis
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: Hood on June 05, 2008, 03:00:49 AM
Sounds like your breakout shorted through your cable, so may have been a faulty board. The idea of a breakout is to protect your computer so that is very disapointing as it seems it has not done so. Check your wiring very carefully on the breakout, I am not familiar with the C10 but if it takes voltage for computer side of Optos as well as voltage for Outpu side  then make sure you have them connected correctly.
Hood
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: da21 on June 05, 2008, 03:25:23 AM
if you can point us towards information on the C10 , a diagram etc , and the power supply your using for the steppers , more information the better , always helps ,  i'm sure we can find the problem
i hope your not trying to power the steppers via the BOB ! , sounds much like an incorrect wiring problem   

Dave
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: jimpinder on June 05, 2008, 04:35:54 AM
Your are going for the big bang solution (and getting it).

You system should be treated as at least two, if not three seperate pieces.

The first is your computer. The second is your breakout board and minor electronics (limit switches and other bits and bobs), and finally your power house - the motor drivers.

All three are seperate - electrically  - and must not be joined together (with one exception - a single common lead).

Your computer I will leave to you - you seem to know more about them than I do.

I am not a lover of the C10 breakout board - for some reason, all the normal LPT1 inputs and outputs have had their voltages reversed, and it seems to be trying to be all things to all men - but - this board does require a 5 volt power supply. I DO NOT RECOMMEND YOU USE A SUPPLY FROM YOUR COMPUTER. If you do, any wiring fault on the board can send power back to your computer and blow it. Use a seperate small 5 volt power suppy.
You must the read the C10 documentation very carefully to get the various jumpers in the correct positions. On LPT1 (as you probably know) you can only have pins 2 - 9 as outputs, 1,14,16 and 17 as outputs and pins 10,11,12,13 asnd 15 as inputs. Make sure the jumpers for these are correct.
The axis are normally run from pins 2,3 4,5 6,7 and 8.9 - the C10 has these arranged with a common wire between then- and the voltage on this common wire can be altered from 0v to +5v. This depends on your driver cards.
I would jumper the "enable"pin to the 5 volt supply - so that your axis are turned on. You can alter it later if you wish.

You can now connect your computer to your Bob (you do not need your machine connected)  and check that you are getting signals too and from. You can certainly see the "dir" pins change voltage. I tend to check mine with an M3 command (M5 to turn off) and alter the pin configuration to test all the output pins. The input pins you can allocate on the Ports and Pins page, and test by putting +5 or 0v in the appropriate pin and checking the diagnostics page.

You driver cards that run your motors are completely seperate. They require whatever voltage you are using, and can be wired seperately. You can turn the power to them "on" and they should "grab" the position and stay there. There is nothing else to say other than they handle quite a lot of power, comparatively speaking, and you should be careful there are no stray "hairs" from you connections making other unwanted connections.

The only connection between your Bob board and your drivers should be  a step wire, a direction wire and a common wire to the input side of the driver card. There should be no high voltage connection between the two boards. The 5 volt supply for the BOB should not be derived from the power supply to the steppers.
I use Gecko drives, so they require step,dir and a 5 volt common - switch your Bob. If your drives require step,dir, and a 0v common switch your Bob.

Again, If you have derived your 5 volts from somewhere, then this common switching could easily short your supply. Use a seperate 5 volt power system for your Bob

I think reading between the lines, your problem was the power supply to the Bob - especially with C10 documentation saying that you can use computer power supply or USB. You have then also probably used this supply to switch enable switchs of the motor driver cards, as well as the axis enables on the Bob.

Keep each part seperate - and only join the minimum number of wires - e.g printer cable between computer and Bob, step,dir and common between Bob and driver - and you should prevent the pyrotechnics

 
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: trev36 on June 05, 2008, 02:13:49 PM
I would like to thank everyone for taking the time to help with this problem.

I am using LM7805 to derive my 5volt supply however it is engaged at the same time as the stepper drive power. Maybe I should have two switches? My power supply is 35VDC 10amp with 27000Uf 50WVDC Cap. It sounds like I need to switch Bob after Mach is online then engage stepper drives. I didn't know voltage where reversed on C10 I changed the jumper to 1&2 ouput . It was by default on 2&3 input. Maybe I should have left the jumper alone. I am using KL-4030 drives from Keling Tech. I only have step and dir. wires coming off of the Bob to the drives. I have enab. and +5 volts tied together and then Grnd on Grnd. I have +5 Volts to the drives logic coming directly from the LM7805 not thru the bob at all. Could this be the problem or should I have left the jumper in default setting. jumper 2 was left common ground but I didn't use it. One thing i did notice is that on power up of Mach the Bob led was on then went off when I flipped the switch to engage the steppers. By that time it was to late smoked bob and fried computer. This is a real puzzle because I have tried other drives and other Bobs and similar problem but instead of the bob and computer being smoked the unipolar drives burned up. Like as stated I'm a newbie and it shows. Really disappointed and running out of money to keep building computers.

Thanks

Travis

Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: da21 on June 05, 2008, 03:10:02 PM
it looks like you may have found the problem
also take a look here it may help you further ,

http://www.kelinginc.net/KL-4030Wiring.pdf
http://www.kelinginc.net/KL23H286-20-08B.pdf

i have also private mailed you
give you a chance to check things out further , let me know we should be able to test it all out with out connecting the pc so you wont fry another !

Dave
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: trev36 on June 05, 2008, 05:12:31 PM
Ok I have checked everything and double checked.

Question in windows under device manager then LPT1 port , Port Settings "Try not to use as an interrupt" is checked. All other dialog boxes are NOT checked. Is this correct?

Thanks

Travis
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: da21 on June 05, 2008, 05:15:39 PM
should be fine as it is

Dave 

Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: Hood on June 05, 2008, 05:18:36 PM
Having port settings in Bios or Windows wrong  is not going to do any damage to your PC, it has to be a wiring or cableing fault or faulty hardware where high voltages are present, ie breakout board.
Hood
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: trev36 on June 05, 2008, 05:50:41 PM
Thanks Dave and Hood

I am using the 282 oz in motors. http://www.kelinginc.net/KL23H276-30-8B.pdf

A+ = Blue & Yellow
A- = Green & Red
B+ = Brown & Orange
B- =  Black & White

Is this correct?

Thanks

Travis
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: Hood on June 05, 2008, 07:01:00 PM
Yes thats correct for parallel connection but again even if you had that wrong there is no way you would fry your computer.
Hood
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: trev36 on June 05, 2008, 07:31:51 PM
Thanks Hood.

Here is photo of my mess. Maybe you can see something I don't. The breakout board in the picture is from probotix. I changed out the C10 after it cooked. I haven't tried to power anything yet.
Any help much appreciated.

Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: jallitt on June 06, 2008, 01:49:32 AM
nevermind... looked at the wiring diagram and answered my own question...
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: da21 on June 06, 2008, 02:44:59 AM
picture  looks fine Travis

Dave 
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: da21 on June 06, 2008, 03:14:49 AM
one other point at the probotix interface already has a regulator ,
so this could be used to power the logic side ( i.e the 5v ) of the
KL4030 ( CP PIN ) , so connect pins 7 of each bob axis to the approprate CP pin on the KL4030

then supply a dc voltage to the bob  of between 6.5 and 12v ( because a regulator requires a voltage approx 1.5 > 2v greater than it's output , but most regulators can handle 12v fine , it only means the regulator runs hotter and may require a heatsink )
also as the regulator on the bob is actualy a LM317 it can handle higher voltages in most cases , as the current used is small .

be carefull of your common ( black ) wiring , they should all be connected together on the dc side and not the ac side of the
veroboard ( unclear from the pics ) it appears that you are supplying unregulated ac to the bob this should be a dc voltage
greater than 6.5v ,

can you clarify your veroboard layout

but other than that your layout looks fine as i said

Dave

Dave
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: jimpinder on June 06, 2008, 03:30:14 AM
You have changed the breakout board - but I am sorry to say that (from thepicture you supplied) you got the cheaper non-isolated version. This is fine, if you have a good knowledge of electrics.

The isolated version of the card splits the card in two electrically, and provides two seperate power inputs - one which you can power from your computer, and one which you can power from your driver board supply.

The board you have bought does not do that. I must urge you again to provide a seperate supply for your breakout board. Not one derived from your driver cards, or one derived from the computer. It can be a plug in telephone charger (if it is the right voltage) or a games console power unit etc - BUT at least it will be electrically isolated.

You are still going for the big bang - good luck

My approach, if I was a little unsure what I was doing, would be to do each part seperately, and certainly connect each axis seperately. I did that when I was starting, and ran everything on my workbench, before trying to assemble a full box of electrics. I have only just now finished my electrics box, because I think of something else to add, and I have been messing around with computers and electronics and electrics for nearly 50 years.

You picture looks very good - but without a wiring diagram of where you have put all the wires, and where the power comes from, I cannot give any opinion.
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: BluePinnacle on June 06, 2008, 07:15:05 AM
Words to the wise, if you want a quick 5v supply, an old Nokia phone charger does very well. Almost everybody i know has old Nokia chargers kicking about somewhere.
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: comet on June 06, 2008, 08:22:48 AM
Hi,
 I always use a pci PPort card and never a opto isolated breakout board.
breakout boards can be more trouble than there worth as you have found out.
hope that helps.
  Comet
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: da21 on June 06, 2008, 02:51:09 PM
be careful with opto isolation boards , a lot of the newer pc's dont like them , especialy laptops
due mostly to the newer 3v logic on the parallel ports

your experience may vary of course

Dave
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: trev36 on June 06, 2008, 03:42:17 PM
Hello Dave, Hood and everyone

In the picture to the right of the +5 volt LM7805 I have a LM7812 wich is hard to see but I have that connected to the probotix LM317hv . I also use it to power my fan which is towards the back of the box. I just got around to this today. I haven't had a chance to try anything yet.  So you think I should try just the breakout board with no drives connected first using mach to see if i get step and dir signals out of board. How would I check for this? I'm not that swift with all this. I do have volt meter. Thanks for all the help.

Thanks

Travis
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: da21 on June 06, 2008, 05:12:55 PM
Hi Travis
yes wiring the bob to the 7812 will be fine

try firing it up without the pc connected first , if you want to check out the drives
by momentary connecting the step pin to the 0v rail , you should hear and see the approprate motor take a step
then by repeated touching you should see it rotate ,

dont worry over which way the motor goes at this stage , if all is well with all 3 motors then go ahead and connect the pc
but not untill

Dave
 
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: trev36 on June 06, 2008, 05:32:29 PM
Hello Dave

I'm not sure what the 0volt rail is ? Is it ground?

Thanks

Travis
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: Hood on June 06, 2008, 07:49:58 PM
0V is the connection of your power supply that is not the positive, it is what people often call  ground but its not really ground LOL

Hood
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: trev36 on June 06, 2008, 09:06:37 PM
Thanks Hood & Dave

Ok this is what I have. When I tried to power up Probotix Bob with 12volt Lm7812 with nothing else connected the LED came on I checked voltage and had +5 volts on all the pins that are suppose to have 5 volts. When I connected board to this other computer that has a bus speed of 800Mhz and CPU speed of 1.9 Ghz Mach3 had lines running thru the screen horizontal lines and LED on bob never came on. I then turned off power immediately didn't look good. I guess i'm still freaked out about frying my other two computers. The breakout boards are not the problem can't be what are the odds of three different breakout boards being bad. Could it be my paraell port cables. I have two one from radio shack and the other is Belkin. Same results.  I must have a short somewhere, but where?
None of this is making sense. I'm totally at a loss. Anyone know what might be my problem.

Thanks

Travis


Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: Chip on June 07, 2008, 01:28:38 AM
Hi, Travis

Check to see if you have 5 volts on any of these pins, 18 - 25, With your cable/BOB not connected to your computer.

Thy should all be Gnd.- 0 - Return pins and should be 0 volts, Check the connector metal housing also.

Hood, What is "Gnd.- Zero" ?, Answer:  eB oT ecalP daB A

Chip
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: jimpinder on June 07, 2008, 03:16:12 AM
THIS IS GETTING TOTALLY *********

Have you got a wiring diagram for all this, or are you making it up as you go along. You keep quoting chip numbers to us when talking voltages - yes, alright, these are regulator chips - but why so many.

Have you designed this in three easy stages as I suggested, or are you still trying to just fasten it on one board and connect all the wires together.

You must get some system. You must have a diagram for each stage of the system - and you must stick to the diagram.

Try Drawing a diagram of the Bob board, and the power supplies you have connected to it first. Post that on this post and we will look at it and give you an opinion.

No, it is doubtful that you have bought 3 faulty boards - but you never keep the same board long enough to learn where your mistakes are.

I put in a previous post - there are three parts to the system Computer, Bob board, Driver boards. Lets do one thing at once !!! ???



Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: trev36 on June 07, 2008, 02:54:43 PM
Thanks Chip

I checked both parallel port cables and I have 5volts on the outer shell of the d connection no ground on pin 18-25 and also noticed on the cables in small print IEEE 1284 high speed. I ordered two cables from Probotix hopefully this will solve the problem. i found an old Iomega LPT cable that is female to male and it has a totally different number and description altogether. Can someone tell me the cable part number I am suppose to use?

Working on drawing and yes I did the wiring in my head I didn't have a diagram. Maybe next time I will take more time.

Thanks

Travis
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: Chip on June 07, 2008, 03:36:13 PM
Hi, Travis

You Should Not have 5 volts on the Outer Shell, It's a Gnd/Shield, Pin's 18 through 25 are also Gnd/Returns pin's.

On the Printer Port connector on your Computer the outer shell and pin's 18 through 25 all come together as Ground's.

That's why your BOB board is Shorting Out Everything.

Pin's 1 through 9, 14, 16, 17, are output's used by Mach to send 0 volts or 5 volts to your BOB/motors/turn on and off things.

Pin's 10 through 13 & 15, are input's used by Mach to see, 0 volts or 5 volts from your BOB/system/limits, E-stop switches, speed pulses and such.

Thanks, Chip
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: da21 on June 07, 2008, 05:25:59 PM
your making an easy job into a long term nightmare take one step at a time as jim says
make a wiring diagram ! ,

check each part seperately , power supply first because if thats wrong everything else will be
check your break out board , then check out your driver board

give us a diagram and we can have this sorted in one go
 
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: trev36 on June 07, 2008, 11:38:09 PM
Here is diagram I drew with MS Paint.  Not very handy with the mouse trying to draw. I don't have a scanner so I can't upload my sketch.

Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: trev36 on June 08, 2008, 12:16:16 AM
Question. The DB25 male to male cable if I understand this correctly has to be wired straight thru. Is this correct? If so I think the IEEE 1284 cables are wired differently.

Thanks

Travis
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: Chip on June 08, 2008, 01:30:52 AM
Hi, Travis

It's a straight through cable 1 to 1, 2 to 2,.........25 to 25, There called Printer Extender cables, M to M or M to F with gender changer.

Chip
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: da21 on June 08, 2008, 03:11:43 AM
ok with your circuit diagram their ARE MAJOR problems wrong with it


firstly the + &  - 24v  should be connected across all motor drives ( KL 4030 ) in parralell , i.e red to red , black to black
so at your fuse block ( transformer side )  connect all reds together and all blacks together , and also a red and black to your 12v supply pcb ( if you notice you have the black wires correct  but the red's are not all connected together )

check that you then have 24v on each of the correct connections on the KL4030'S and that your 12v supply output  is correct with your multimeter

the step & direction  connections look fine ,


do NOT CONNECT TO THE COMPUTER YET
we need to check out your printer lead and the connections , so which breakout board are you using ?
so i can be more specific


 


 


 
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: da21 on June 08, 2008, 03:51:27 AM
i think in a previous post you changed the breakout board to a probotix  http://www.probotix.com/schematics/pbx-2_schematic.jpg

so if that is the case then the connections are simply
1 to 1 , 2 to 2 etc all the way to 25 to 25 ,

However beware ! , due to the nature of D Type connectors in some cases the pins can change position depending
if your using male or female connectiors , so the best way is to check is with the cable connected to the break out board , and check from the pc end of the cable to the breakout board pcb connection , the should simply be pins 1 to 1 all the way

so here we go

check pin2 first to the pcb pin 2 with a multimeter on resistance and see if you have continuity
if you do then check the following pins exactly the same way

pin4 to pcb pin 4 , pin 6 to pcb pin 6 , pin 15 to pcb pin 15 ,  pin 16 , pin 23  &  pin 24

if all are correct then your cable is correct .

if any pin is incorrect then you have 2 options
rewire one plug or

make up  whats called a gender changer between a 25w plug and a 25w socket ( or plug to plug )  , which can then be inserted between the printer cable and the breakout board 

now this gender changer needs to be made to suit
the connections they become swapped from end to end on each row

so pin 1 has to go to pin 13
pin2 to pin 12
pin 3 to pin 11
continue for all pins on the top row

then the same for the bottom row

pin 14 to pin 25
pin 15 to pin 24
pin 16 to pin 23
pin 17 to pin 22
you can miss a few pins now and jump to
pin 24 to pin 15
pin 25 to pin 13

etc etc
















 
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: jimpinder on June 08, 2008, 04:09:26 AM
I have tried to fraw a wiring diagram for you. It is schematic - in that it does not put everything in its place as you have tried to do.It is however essentially similar to yours, but, I think, easier to follow.

However - there are a few things to note.

1. Your power leads to the driver cards must be a seperate pair to each card - NOT daisy chained from one to the other
2. Note the inclusion of a second power supply to provide 5 volts to your BoB. This will ensure there is no chance of any fault developing on the regulator side that allows 24 volts into your computer system.
3. I do not understand why you need 12 volt supply to your Bob - (I dont know which Bob yu are on now) - most work on 5 volts, and again cut out the possibility of voltage getting back to your computer. You wre on the Probotix board - I think that board has a 5 volt regulator on board - so all you need is a low voltage supply
4. You MAY derive a 12 volt supply for your fan from the 24 volt supply
5. As someone has already said - your voltages around your 25 lead cable to your computer are suspect - where is the stray voltage coming from. The outer sheathing and pins 18 to 25 should be at 0v.
6. The leads from your Bob to your drivers cards should be seperate to each driver. The "common" lead (green) could be 5 volts, or 0v depending on your driver board requirements.
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: trev36 on June 08, 2008, 01:51:06 PM
Hello Dave, Chip , Jimpinder and Hood

Thank you for taking your valuable time to help me. I am going to redo things today as noted. I really do appreciate this help.

Thanks

Travis
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: trev36 on June 09, 2008, 05:23:00 PM
Ok just received the LPT cables from Probotix and the optoisolated bob board. Hooked just board to 12 volt supply and to computer. turned computer on Led on board came on engaged mach3 then powered up bob and the line across the screen has come back and the ground lead from the bob to the 12 volt supply started melting. ??? What does this mean?

Thanks

Travis
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: Hood on June 09, 2008, 05:32:34 PM
What is your 12V supply? is it a voltage regulator? If so is there a possibility that it is connected wrong and you are putting the 24V main supply to your board?
Hood
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: Chip on June 09, 2008, 06:13:18 PM
Hi, Travis

Where do you live, You need to find some one to help get this sorted out.

You've got a Power wire or Gnd wire in the wrong place.

That's why your BOB board is Shorting Out Everything when you connect it to your Computer.

As you stated before:

"I checked both parallel port cables and I have 5volts on the outer shell of the d connection no ground on pin 18-25."

You Should Not have 5 volts on the Outer Shell, It's a Gnd/Shield, Pin's 18 through 25 are also Gnd/Returns pin's.

Thanks, Chip
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: trev36 on June 09, 2008, 07:53:31 PM
I have checked for the obvious over and over rewired as per the diagram. I am still using the 7812 voltage regulator. I have tried several different 7812 voltage regulators . I have one 7812 connected right off of the filter capacitor. Checked I have 12volts everytime fan works and 12 volt LED lights up. The Bob checks out fine as long as I do not connect it to the computer. I have the correct cables now from Probotix and a brand new Bob which I checked with volt meter before connecting to the computer. It was all great until I connected it to my computer. That is when the Ground wire got hot from 7812 to the onboard voltage regulator LM317 which supplies 5volts to the bob which is on the bob itself from Probotix. I have followed instructions from Probotix as to which jumpers to remove which is only jumper 5. I have checked the Bob over and over this time before connecting to the computer. I am thinking that I did some damage to the parralle port yesterday when I hooked up the Bob that had 5 volts on the ground shield. I had already powered the bob connected to the computer before I knew that the shield was actually a ground. Do you think that my paralle port is messed up now?

Thanks

Travis
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: M250cnc on June 09, 2008, 08:52:57 PM
Hi Trev

Sorry to read you are having such a bad time. The 12v to the BOB, is this for a vfd, otherwise you only need 5v. Like Jim says connect a bit at a time

I simple way of getting 5v and 12v is to use a surplus PC power supply, there is some re wiring to do. Have you got any buddies that can help you check what you are doing is correct.

Here is the link of the power supply mod http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply

This might be useful to other peeps

Good luck
Phil_H
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: jallitt on June 10, 2008, 12:11:19 AM
The probotix board shows step, dir, ground and enable connectors on each axis. Are you sure that's compatible with the kellig drivers which don't have a ground connection on the logic side? Last time you tried to plug in the BOB did you have the step/dir wires connected to the BOB? 

Do you need to connect the axis ground to both the DIR- and STEP- on the driver and the STEP from the BOB to the STEP+  and DIR from the BOB to DIR+? That's a question BTW not a suggestion...
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: jimpinder on June 10, 2008, 01:44:29 AM
I am getting a bit upset that we are giving you advice which you are not heeding. Either that, or there is too much advice and you are getting confused.

It seems to me that your knowledge is a little lacking, and you will have to, therefore take things step by step. You will insist in connecting everything up and switching on and hoping for the best. This is not a scientific way of doing it.

You had better give your computer the once over first and see if signals are still coming out of the LPY1 port. . Is this a standard shop bought computer, or one you have put together yourself. Is the chassis earthed.
Connect a cable to the LPT1 port and turn on the computer. Do not connect anything else. If you have Mach 3 on the screen then fine. Has Mach 3 properly loaded onto your computer, with the drivers running. Have you run a driver test. Do all this before going any further.

With Mac 3 running check with a volt meter, or a logic probe, the signals coming out of your printer port. What voltage are they at. Check each wire 1 to 17 against one of the signal return wires 18 to 25. The pin numbers are stamped on the plug (somewhere).
What voltage is the sheathing showing ???

The sheathing should be at 0v and pins 18 to 25 should show 0v to each other and the sheathing. No other pin shoud have a voltage on it greater than 5 volts. If there is anything wrong - particularly stray voltage on the sheathing, FIND OUT WHERE IT IS COMING FROM  before you do anything else.

Moving to your Bob board - it sounds like you have now bought one of the opto-isolated variety. WHY DO YOU INSIST ON CONNECTING 12 VOLTS FROM YOUR FAVOURITE VOLTAGE REGULATOR TO IT. This is a recipe for disaster. The opto isolated board - if it is from the same stable as your last board has a simple connector - a USB connector, which you plug into your computer and into the Bob board. This provides power to the Bob. Since it is from the computer, then all voltages must be the same.

If you LPT1 cable checks out, then plug it in, fasten up the USB link and the Bob should now work. I cannot percieve anything more simple than that. DO NOT CONNECT ANYTHING ELSE TO THE BOB UNTIL YOU HAVE TESTED IT.

That is enough diatribe - if you get that far (and live) and want some more, come back.



Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: da21 on June 10, 2008, 03:19:50 AM
stop trying to jump to far too quick , otherwise we will not find the problem for you , and More damage WILL HAPPEN
is this the bob you are using ? http://www.probotix.com/diagrams/PBX-RF_diagram.gif

looking at this bob there are 2 supplys needed one for the pc side of the bob and another for the controller side , you can not run them from one supply, has the regulator pcb you made fitted with supply filtering caps on the input and output side ,their are a few areas suspect , do you have the transformer wired correctly , did you fit 100uF caps across the 7812 on both the input and output sides , is the common 0V the same to  both the motor driver and 7812 power supplys.

using an old pc power supply as suggested , is a good idea although for this application of realy only supplying power to the bob is overkill
 

as the problem manifests it's self when you connect the pc then i'd suggest you dont have the second power supply fitted or your not supplying power from the USB socket 

also a simple check is if you have an old printer you can connect to the printer port and see if it's working ok , if your not comfortable pokeing around with a multimeter .

if you wish contact me on skype or email me , i dont mind helping you further , but it seems that without either someone local to you or interactive help you may struggle , you'd probably at the moment be better off using the standard breakout board rather than the isolated one
as they can induce other problems of their own doing , changing things half way through can only move the underlying problem around not solve it  .

Dave








 


 

 
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: trev36 on June 11, 2008, 01:36:47 AM
Success !!! You will never believe this ! I checked the ground on the AC side. I could kick myself in the ass for not thinking of this first. NO GROUND.  I pulled all the receptacle  plate covers off to discover I only have one receptacle with a ground. All the others in my garage do not have a ground.

I want to thank everyone for being patient with me and seeing me through this. Mach Support is theBEST!!!
Everything is running smooth.

Thank you

Travis
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: trev36 on June 11, 2008, 01:52:53 AM
To Jallitt


Yes the probotix breakout boards are compatable. You only need to hook up the step and dir to the Dir- and Step- on the logic side of the driver. The Step+ and Dir+ take +5 volts from the Breakout board. The probotix board is awesome because of the onboard LM317 which you can use your 12 volt supply that you use to poewr your cooling fan and hook up to the breakout board and the onboard regulator steps down to +5 volts and you can solder a wire to the idc +5 volt pin and supply the driver this way. Everything is marked very clearly on the board. Any of the Probotix Breakout boards will work with Geckos, Keling, or any driver that accept step and dir signals. I have purchased the Probotix unipolar stepper drives to try next.

Thanks

Travis
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: jimpinder on June 11, 2008, 01:56:05 AM
You should have tried that with the 240 volts across here. All electrical work over here (at mains voltage) now has to be certificated. Having done most of my own electrical work over the years, I was upset when this regulation came in - but I can see why !!
Title: Re: Fried 2nd Computer (Newbie)
Post by: Chip on June 11, 2008, 02:26:59 AM
Hi, Travis

Well go figure that one, Get a socket tester to make sure the neutral & hot leads aren't reversed while your fixing the Gnd problem.

Glad you found the problem.

Chip