Machsupport Forum
Mach Discussion => General Mach Discussion => Topic started by: M250cnc on April 19, 2008, 08:31:50 AM
-
There are conditions attached, the $2 million must be collected in person by your great great great grandparents ;D ;D ;D
Thanks for looking and i am really desperate.
I am using a RF31 mill from http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-RF31-Vertical-Mill-Drill-21299.htm these are also sold under Chester/Warco in the UK and i believe cnc jnr in the US of A uses the same mill.
I need some info on the wiring to the motor, a complete breakdown "Idiots Guide" as you will know i am electrically challenged as it says in my sig
I needed to take the motor off and it was some time before it went back on, it does work but it is getting a bit hot 76' C to be exact so i am thinking i have got something wrong.
What i need is the live and neutral connections when running forwards then reverse to the motor terminals.
Begging
Phil_H
-
This prize has now been claimed, sorry to anyone who is in the process of stripping their machine down.
The motor was wired correctly. Amazingly for me.
It just happens to be a *********e motor on a *********e machine. I was thinking of doing a review for the Axminster but i don't think they would allow it.
Apologies for the language if anyone is offended.
Must go i have to find a supplier of a quality motor. One that is continuous rated.
Phil_H
Wow that's amazing the asterisks went in automatically.
-
If you are in UK I have a 1h.p. motor taken off my Warco lathe - perfectly sound, and I have no problems with it.
I took it off to replace it with a three phase for speed control.
You might consider doing the same, and running the new motor through a single phase/three phase inverter. A bit pricey to start with, but if you have to buy a motor anyway, look to the future.
-
Thanks Jim.
Yes unfortunately i am in the UK.
As my other thread i may go the three phase route or the AC servo route.
The machine isn't even wired correctly. It has a temp overload device attached to the motor which is a capacitor start
When it trips it turns off the running coil so the motor is starting/cutting out starting/cutting out since that happened the problem has got progressively worse. It should have been wired through the NVR switch.
What is even more frustrating is i have a inverter but no instructions it is 11A input at 240v 5.3A output at 440v
Phil_H
-
Jim is also in the UK, well if you can call Yorkshire the UK :D
What make of VFD is you have? any model number on it?
Hood
-
Hood i think Jim is more in the UK than i am. If you know what i mean. ::)
I do have the details on the unit and the first thing i did was a google search but nothing came up.
It is French but made in the UK by Gegelec
It says ALSPA VFMA
Type VFMA 2005A
I have sent a mail to Cegelec today but don't hold out much hope.
Phil_H
-
Just an update i have just searched for just "Alspa" and did find some info hopefully i will be able to get more info.
Phil_H
-
Do you have a pic of it? might help in identifying as these types of electronics companies are allways changing hands so it might be called something different.
Hood
-
Thanks Hood
Phil_H
(http://www.pmcb.co.uk/Front_View.jpg) (http://www.pmcb.co.uk/Spec.jpg)
(http://www.pmcb.co.uk/Side_Two.jpg) (http://www.pmcb.co.uk/Side_One.jpg)
-
Looks like you could just hook it up the way it is and use the buttons for speed control. Buttons seem to have standard symbols on them, Green=Start, Red=Stop, Blue=Reverse Direction, Black Up/Dn arrows for increase/Decrease frequency. Not sure what the middle button at the top is though.
Hood
-
Thanks Hood
Just tried it, connected motor it says Rdy
Motor doesn't start, no power to the terminals the only button that seemed to work was the M button the display said 50 when pressed.
??????????
Phil_H
-
OK that makes sense, M will be for Mode, ie all of the parameters. Maybe going up and down will let you see a parameter that needs setting but without a list I doubt you wont know what they mean. Maybe if you download a manual for one of their other VFDs the parameters will be similar, I found one yesterday for a MD2005 or something like that. Could possibly be that the external buttons have been disabled because they had a remote pot on it for speed control and a switch for Fwd/Rev. Again without knowing the terminals or the parameters to select it will be difficult, but maybe there is some indication of where a pot would connect, moulded into the terminal block.
Hood
-
Thanks Hood and Jim for the help.
I have now got a manual. ;D ;D ;D
But the inverter is not powerful enough :'( :'( :'(
But i have been looking and have found a motor inverter package and hopefully i will get it Tuesday
Phil_H
-
Phil - You are not another Scot - or even Welsh - are you ???
-
Phil - You are not another Scot - or even Welsh - are you ???
What are you implying Jim ::)
Phil_H
-
Phil - you will have to excuse Hood and me.
Actually the inverter you have looks like a neat unit - and you say you have a manual. What sort of power does it give out - is it OK for running a drill press - or even a cross slide mounted drill of some sort.
-
Hi Jim
Yes it is a nice unit. the rating is actually shown on one of the pictures, 11amp input 240V, 4.3amp output 440V
It is working i didn't remember that i had removed a switch which connects to two of the terminal strips. That is why it didn't work. ::)
I bought it with an pantograph engraver.
Are you going to make me an offer for it as i was going to put it on that well known auction site.
Phil_H
-
I've nothing to run it with (yet).
Now you have the manual - can it be connected to computer control.
If so give me a price to think about