Machsupport Forum
Mach Discussion => General Mach Discussion => Topic started by: Boss6 on May 12, 2020, 07:19:53 AM
-
I have a Bridgeport Boss 6 that I retrofitted but I don't know how to set up the e-stop so that if I use the one on the machine it will stop everything. The way it is right now if I use the machine e-stop the spindle stops but the bed still is working off of the mach 3. It is dangerous that way and I would like to change it to where using the machine e-stop will stop everything. I hope I can get some help on how to wire it. A diagram would be helpful.
-
That all depends what your estop is doing now.
if you can attach another set of contacts or you have a spare pair then run a wire from ground to one side and another from the second side to an input on your bob and tell mach that that input is e-stop
-
If the e-stop is used on the machine the spindle stops but the things controlled by Mach3 keeps working (the x,y, z) If I use the e-stop on the mach3 the steppers all quit but the spindle keep turning on the machine. I am accustomed to using the e-stop on the machine so all the movements keep working but the spindle stops. Very dangerous.
-
Look at the EStop switch on your machine - if it has a spare (unused) set of contacts then connect them as Graham has suggested. If there is not a spare set of contacts, could you fit a new microswitch which is operated by your machine EStop switch ? then connect that switch as Graham has suggested.
Tweakie.
-
I am including the electrical diagram of the machine
-
So your ES is switching off some kind of "main" power supply, but your diagram is incomplete :(
Some more of the diagram is needed where is seen where your spindle is connected.
-
What I am trying to do is make the breakout board's E-stop mach3 by using the The E-stop in the diagram. Mach 3 is what is running my steppers motion and the machine's e-stop doesn't trigger the E-stop in Mach3 I just want the e-stop on the machine to trigger an e-stop in mach3. That would then in turn stop everything.
-
Take a picture of the contacts on the estop on the machine and post it here
-
You could add a relay with its coil connected to wire 128 and wire 2. It will be energized when the E-stop switch is in the run position. The diagram doesn't tell what the control voltage is but you can measure the voltage out of the transformer. Use a normally closed contact from that relay to extend the E-stop to mach3.
If you are using servo motors consider using another contact to disconnect the power to them to ensure they can't runaway due to an internal fault.
If you run hazardous voltage from one enclosure to another add a notice so people won't assume opening the local disconnect makes the area safe to work in.
-
Thanks MN300 I am pretty sure I will need a relay. I need to check it out but I think the voltage is 24 volts from the E-stop on the machine. I am using a cheap breakout board and the pin used on it is pin 10. I am sorry I can't explain any better but electrical work is not one of my strong suits, On the relay I would like to figure out how to get it to either turn both machine and breakout board e-stops on or off at the same time. I really need a diagram if someone can post one. Thanks all for the help you are trying to give me. I am pretty sure that the breakout board will be of a different voltage than the breakout board. When I posted this I thought I might connect with someone that has retrofitted a Bridgeport boss 6. The mach 3 is only running my motion of X,Y,Z
-
A person would need to know much more about your installation to recommend a relay and provide a diagram.
What is the control voltage? Most likely 120 VAC or 240 VAC depending on what part of the world you're in.
What current and voltage will the relay be switching? Will you be switching power to other devices?
The E-stop input to your BOB probably needs a contact closure to ground to allow the machine to run but I don't know the details of your setup.
Where will you mount the relay - How much room is available?
A relay similar to this should work unless you need more than 2 contacts.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-AC110V-Coil-Power-Relay-DPDT-LY2NJ-HH62P-L-JQX-13F-W-PTF08A-Socket-Base/401477573638?hash=item5d79ed9c06:m:mtNxrUqG3zT3AHABmKrVn1A
The primary purpose of an E-stop is to protect people from injury. Also it prevents damage to equipment.
The E-stop input to MACH3 is a software function thus a computer failure could leave something running. It's unlikely a stepper would continue to receive pulses but the speed input to a DC controlled motor may remain on.
If you are using a motion controller it may have circuits that stop motion independently. Also if the 'Charge Pump' circuit in a controller is used it will stop motion if it fails to receive a steady stream of pulses from MACH software.
Still there is nothing as certain as interrupting the power to the motors with a mechanical contact. You need to decide how much risk there is and how much you are willing to do to limit it.
You may be able to add additional E-stop switches in series. There is a note saying 'SEE LINE 14A' that should be checked first. The E-stop may do more than enabling the motor starter.
Graham Waterworth asked about the E-stop switch. Adding a contact or replacing it with one that has more contacts is good solution if you only need to add one more circuit and don't foresee adding more E-stop switches.
-
The machine works off of 220 3 phase ac but I am pretty sure the e-stop is 24volts DC. I will try to get more information as I really need to figure out how to get the e-stop on the mach 3 to work when the e-stop on the machine is pushed as it is dangerous the way I have it now, The only thing the mach 3 operates is the steppers that control X,Y, and Z so if it is running a program and the machine e-stop is hit it stops the spindle where it is at the time but the X,Y and Z continue to run it makes for broken tools. The machine is very powerful and dangerous in that state. Thanks again MN300 for trying to help. I can send a more detail diagram of the machine but some of it has been changed as when I installed the Mach 3 I did away with the tape reader and some of the boards that control the X,Y,and Z steppers. There is plenty of room in the cabinet to add things. Thanks again and I wish I was more versed in electrical wiring to tell you more. I will see what extra I can come up with to add to this thread. I use the machine but it is dangerous in this state.
-
On diagram that you posted, you marked tha EStop switch.
There is a secondary contact which is Normally Opened, you can use it for signaling Mach3 thatEStop is activated.
Run 2 wires from unused contact and wire them to your BOB, and in settings enable EStop and tick or untick ActiveLow.
That way Mach3 will have info that you activated EStop and will stop all motion (of course, you will have to reference your machine after EStop condition).
-
I see LINE 14A is on the diagram near the bottom right corner. It shows more E-Stop switch contacts. I think they are part of the E-stop switch on LINE 3A but the J4 symbols on either side indicates a plug in the wiring. If those contacts are on the same switch you will find 4 wires there. 192 and 128 for the AC voltage and 135 and 39 for DC voltage.
If you have removed the equipment controlled by that contact it can be reused to connect to the MACH E-stop input. The bottom half of the diagram operates on DC power. If everything DC is unused you can remove fuse 6 (FU6) without affecting the operation of the machine as you are using it. FU11 powers the transformer at supplies the DC but the diagram shows it powers something on LINE 34 so we need to find if it's something you need before removing that fuse.
More pictures of the diagram will help to make sure but I would guess the DC portion of the wiring is now unused and the E-stop contact is available.
-
I will add full diagram tomorrow. Here is a picture of the machine I am working on.
-
Thanks all for all the help you have provided.
-
The diagram you provided today helps some even though the smaller lettering is illegible. I am assuming the only function of the original controls you are using is the spindle motor. If that's true everything from LINE 9A and below is not used and the E-stop contact on LINE 14A is free to be reused.
This leaves us with the physical aspect of the rewiring. From the photo of the machine it looks like it might be hard to string new wires to the E-stop switch. If you can locate the wires from J4 they would give you a way to connect to the E-stop switch from the main enclosure. They are 135, where it connects to CR1 and 3? (can't read it for sure maybe 37) where it connects to the negative rail of the DC supply. If you can find them disconnect them from the old circuit and verify they connect to the E-stop switch with your ohmmeter. They can be extended to the BOB input.
There is another possible problem. Those wires may be routed close to high voltage wires that could be a source of noise. A 0.1 uF capacitor across the input would probably be enough to filter the noise.
Because of the difficulties mentioned above it might be safer and easier for a novice like you to add a relay as mentioned in an earlier post.
Your next tasks are to remove FU11 and verify the machine still works as you want it to. Then examine the machine wiring and decide which approach seems best to you.
Another issue is if you want to switch the spindle on and off under MACH control.
Pictures of the inside of the control cabinet could be helpful.
-
I am used to always using the machines e-stop so if I can figure out how to stop the stepper motors when I use the machines e-stop as that is what I want.. I almost never use the e-stop on mach3. I want to just use the milling machine e-stop.
-
I really probably need someone that has worked with these machines and did a reto on one to break it down to 1st grade level for me.
-
Thanks all for trying to help. I finally figured out a way to do what I was trying to do. It took running a wire from #127 on the machine to the BOB e-stop to control the Mach e-stop. with the machines e-stop button. It was a very easy fix once I figured it out. No relays needed and #127 was easy to attach wire going to BOB board. It was a 10 minute fix once I figured it out.
-
Glad you figured out :)
-
Machining with the machine is much safer now. Thanks all for your input. I hope my post will help someone that may run across the same problem I had.
-
Is wire #127 the correct number? It appears to be in the former limit switch circuit, not the E-Stop.
-
Connection to wire 127 is doing the job. I found it by using a VOM and checked it with e-stop engaged and not engaged. Now if I use the machines e-stop it also triggers the mach 3 e-stop. I still have to reset both the the machines e-stop and the mach 3 e-stop to restart but it is much safer than the way it was before.
-
In any case, when you disengage EStop, you should reset Mach and rehome the machine.
Safe enough?