Machsupport Forum
Mach Discussion => Mach3 under Vista => Topic started by: scintilla on April 29, 2019, 10:42:51 PM
-
Hello Fellow Frustrated CNCers ::),
I have been trying to connect my Widows 7, 32 bit Toshiba laptop to my new 6040Z (allegedly-) USB controlled CNC machine.
Initially I was impressed with the overall build quality, pretty good wiring quality and beefy power supplies and stepper drivers.
My problem has been the complete failure of my computer to connect and control the drives via the USB cable. In fact there is zero activity between the items.
I can get the spindle to run under manual control from the front panel so it basically works. What we have is a failure to communicate.
Looking at the wiring, and referring to the scant information available on line, I have some doubts about the correctness of the connections to the PCB.
For instance, there is a link between the ACM terminal and the DCM teminal which does not appear on the diagrams. My problem is that I have no way of finding out the meaning of AVI, ACM and DCM and what their connections should be. I'm guessing the xCM might be Analog and Digital Common. Guessing here is not a good idea...
There are some other iffy-looking connections but I would be grovellingly grateful if someone could compare their working setup with the attached photograph and perhaps enlighten me on what's good and what's not. A return picture for comparison may be asking too much but it sure would help!
I also have failed to understand the correct Setup for Ports and Pins when using USB. Is it even necessary to make settings through an interface which has no Parallel Pins.
I thought USB was supposed to make life easy for those of us who are pretty slow... ???
Sorry if this is too long but it's important to pose the question clearly. Here's hoping.
Cheers,
Scintilla.
-
Hi,
I'm sorry to say that those Bitsensor boards are not particularly good and you will get no manufacturer support.
They are cheap....but that's about all to recommend about them.
Ask yourself.....' If I had to throw away the Bitsensor controller and bought a new US or European made unit ($150-$250)
would this machine still be good value...ruggedly built, good wiring and supplies and steppers?'
I would recommend an ESS (Ethernet SmoothStepper, $190, and two C10 BoB's at $23 each) or a UC300 (approx $150
and two C10 BoB's at $23 each), the addition of a little circuitry for PWM and relay drives and your machine would
come to life in a big way!
Craig
-
Hello Craig and Everyone,
Yep, it looks as if Bitsensor has evaporated, taking itself into digital limbo. I think I will take your advice and lift the standard of my machine by using one of your suggestions.
It's a shame when we buy items without having any way of checking the quality of the internal components.
Generally I have had good experiences with most of the Chinese items I have bought and I don't harbour any resentment for the supplier. They are obviously out to make moolah and to reduce their costs to stay competitive. This is unlikely to inhibit their use of crappy components somewhere in the unit. Ultimately someone has to pay for this. Caveat Emptor!
Throwing away the Bitsensor is no problem and I will probably enjoy upgrading the innards to fire up my machine properly.
First I will have to learn about the new components and how they will be integrated into the box.
It's my good fortune that I don't have any deadlines and plenty of other things to explore while I put things in order.
Many thanks for your kind advice. Much appreciated.
Cheers,
Scintilla.
-
Hi,
Generally I have had good experiences with most of the Chinese items I have bought and I don't harbour any resentment for the supplier
Overall that is my experience also. There are certain product categories where that is not the case, cheap electronic devices
in particular.
I'm glad that you are prepared to consider the idea I presented, its not the first time I have recommended such a course
and some people have lambasted/criticized/hated me for it. I certainly understand how someone would be offended
by me pouring cold water on their new device. I take no satisfaction from doing so, but those people who have gone
on and bought a quality controller have complemented me on the advice and gone on to have an enjoyable and productive
CNC hobby whereas those who do not tend to fade away......perhaps with their CNC dream.
I suspect your machine is well made with very useful components and parts, a lot of Chinese made CNC gear is very
good value for money. Combine that with a quality and well supported controller like an ESS and you'll be golden.
Craig
-
Hello Fellow Frustrated CNCers ::),
I have been trying to connect my Widows 7, 32 bit Toshiba laptop to my new 6040Z (allegedly-) USB controlled CNC machine.
Initially I was impressed with the overall build quality, pretty good wiring quality and beefy power supplies and stepper drivers.
My problem has been the complete failure of my computer to connect and control the drives via the USB cable. In fact there is zero activity between the items.
I can get the spindle to run under manual control from the front panel so it basically works. What we have is a failure to communicate.
Looking at the wiring, and referring to the scant information available on line, I have some doubts about the correctness of the connections to the PCB.
For instance, there is a link between the ACM terminal and the DCM teminal which does not appear on the diagrams. My problem is that I have no way of finding out the meaning of AVI, ACM and DCM and what their connections should be. I'm guessing the xCM might be Analog and Digital Common. Guessing here is not a good idea...
There are some other iffy-looking connections but I would be grovellingly grateful if someone could compare their working setup with the attached photograph and perhaps enlighten me on what's good and what's not. A return picture for comparison may be asking too much but it sure would help!
I also have failed to understand the correct Setup for Ports and Pins when using USB. Is it even necessary to make settings through an interface which has no Parallel Pins.
I thought USB was supposed to make life easy for those of us who are pretty slow... ???
Sorry if this is too long but it's important to pose the question clearly. Here's hoping.
Cheers,
Scintilla.
Same board
https://www.amazon.ca/Aluoflower-100Khz-Breakout-Interface-Controller/dp/B0759KP1CV
Try using B0759KP1CV as part number instead
-
Download RnRMotion.dll
put into a
C:\Mach3\PlugIns
Select hardware driver when starting MACH3 RnRMotion
https://buildyourcnc.com/Item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board
-
Hello Fellow Frustrated CNCers ::),
I have been trying to connect my Widows 7, 32 bit Toshiba laptop to my new 6040Z (allegedly-) USB controlled CNC machine.
Initially I was impressed with the overall build quality, pretty good wiring quality and beefy power supplies and stepper drivers.
My problem has been the complete failure of my computer to connect and control the drives via the USB cable. In fact there is zero activity between the items.
I can get the spindle to run under manual control from the front panel so it basically works. What we have is a failure to communicate.
Looking at the wiring, and referring to the scant information available on line, I have some doubts about the correctness of the connections to the PCB.
For instance, there is a link between the ACM terminal and the DCM teminal which does not appear on the diagrams. My problem is that I have no way of finding out the meaning of AVI, ACM and DCM and what their connections should be. I'm guessing the xCM might be Analog and Digital Common. Guessing here is not a good idea...
There are some other iffy-looking connections but I would be grovellingly grateful if someone could compare their working setup with the attached photograph and perhaps enlighten me on what's good and what's not. A return picture for comparison may be asking too much but it sure would help!
I also have failed to understand the correct Setup for Ports and Pins when using USB. Is it even necessary to make settings through an interface which has no Parallel Pins.
I thought USB was supposed to make life easy for those of us who are pretty slow... ???
Sorry if this is too long but it's important to pose the question clearly. Here's hoping.
Cheers,
Scintilla.
Hello Scintilla,
I have bought the same board and board came to me without any manuals ... :(
I made some research on the internet and I found a chinese guide ..... after translating with google I found the following:
Description of the control board terminal
10 V: voltage input 10 V.
AVI: analogue output interface, analogue output speed control signal from 0 to 10 V.
ACM: mass of the analog signal
24V: 24 V power supply input; used to power digital signal terminals such as IN and OUT
DCM: the mass of the digital signal; the 24V and DCM terminals are connected to the 24V supply supplied by the inverter; if the inverter has no 24 V
it is necessary to add a 12 V to 24 VDC power supply to the 24 V terminal and to the DCM terminal of the control board.
I1 ~ I4: digital signal input terminal; it can be used to connect the signal input as a limit switch and the emergency stop switch
O1 ~ O4: digital signal output terminal; it can be used to drive the relay or the output control signal
Description of the inverter terminal:
FWD: forward / start gear terminal; some inverters can be connected to multifunction S1 or X1
DCM: land of digital signal; some inverters are called public land COMs
10 V: 10 V voltage output; some inverters can be 12 V or 5 V.
AVI: analogue input from 0 to 10 V.
ACM: 10 V analog signal grounding; some inverters are called public land COMs
24V: output power 24 V.
Attached the wiring diagram.
sorry for my bad English :(((
If you have some trouble write to me !
Claudio
-
Hello Claudio,
Many thanks for your helpful reply. Sorry I have taken so long to answer.
I have reinstalled the Bitsensor board and it works pretty well now. The Stepper Motors work well and the Motor Tuning is easy to set up.
Thanks for the attached wiring diagram. I'm also using the RnR.dll driver as recommended.
There are still some puzzles for me to try to work out.
1. When I wire up my Limit Switches , all Normally Open, to the In 2 terminal and then close the switch(es) to DCM, there is no response.
2. The same is true when I connect EStop from IN 1 to DCM. No Emergency Stop happens.
3. The same is true for connecting the Home switches from IN 3 to DCM. I use the Limit Switches as Home Switches so I have placed a jumper link from IN 2 to IN 3.
4. The same goes for the Probe connection to IN 4.
5. I have the White Start/Stop wire connected to OUT 2. That seems to be working okay.
I have 24V connected to power the Analog 24V Terminal and 0V to ACM.
I assume the Grounds for Analogue and Digital are connected, so that ACM is at the same (Ground) potential as DCM.
When I look at the Diagnostics tab there seems to be nothing going on at all.
My understanding of PCB layout is that it is unusual to have Analogue and Digital Grounds connected.
My feeling is that I have not assigned the correct Port and Pins numbers somewhere in the Config Tabs. I can change motor directions and so on by checking and unchecking as required. This means the USB is working properly.
I have seen many variations of the Ports and Pins settings on dozens of You Tube videos but I have never seen a complete set of Screen Shots of a fully functional 6040/Bitsensor/USB CNC Mill. I can't afford to change over to another PCB and Stepper Driver combination just now so I would love to have my current machine working properly.
Any further thoughts would be really welcome.
There's nothing wrong with your English! :)
Thanks again,
Scintilla.
-
Just to clear up some settings for the outputs and inputs for the BSMCEO4U board to work.
The Mach 3 setup for ports and pins need to be set up correctly.
Outputs for the motors are simply port 0 pin 0 for X, Y, Z, and A. The drive outputs are hard coded.
Output for spindle control is Port 0-pin1 for both pulse and direction
Spindle control is set to 1000 Hz, check Use Spindle output and PWM.
Input signals are on PORT 3; where In1 = P3-Pin1, In2 = P3-Pin2, In3 = P3-Pin3, In4 = P3-Pin4
Output signals are also on PORT 3; where Out1 = P3-Pin1, Out2 = P3-Pin2, Out3 = P3-Pin3, Out4 = P3-Pin4
The schematic of a typical setup has
E-STOP on Port 3, Pin 1,
Limit switches on Port 3 Pin2
Touch Plate on Port 3 Pin 4
-
Hello Wvancura,
What a great help to receive these settings for my machine! ;D
I will reset my Ports and Pins as shown and report the results ASAP.
I can see that this information will be a real boon to all the many frustrated Mach3-ers who have faced this information vacuum.
Many thanks for taking the trouble to put us on the right track, at last :)
Scintilla.
-
To add a little more to the BSMCEO4U-PP definitions.
1) 24V: Input can be anywhere from 12V to 36V to power the digital input and outputs only. It is usually the same voltage that supplies the motor drivers, but it can be a separate supply (200ma minimum).
2) DCM: connection is digital ground for both input switches (Limits, E-Stop, & Probe) and output loads (VFD Start, Flood, & Mist).
3) ACM is the analog ground specifically for the spindle speed control. It goes to the ACM pin on the VFD.
4) AVI: is the analog output to the spindle speed control. (not very linear). It goes to the AVI pin on the VFD.
5) 10V: is the input analog reference voltage for the spindle speed control. This should come from the VFD low voltage supply (10V to 13V) output.
6) 5V: is a low power output to supply the motor driver opto-isolators providing you use "Low-True" logic (pull to ground for ON)
7) GND: output is the ground to the motor drivers used when driving "High-True" logic (Pull to 3,3V to 5V for ON).
Note: For the motor drivers, you will use either the 5V or the GND connection, not both. Choosing the right method may require some experimentation.
Note: DCM, ACM, and GND (all grounds) are not connected together. Each serves an isolated purpose, and their isolation is an attempt to protect your equipment. If you want everything grounded together (and you should), run a separate ground wire from each piece of equipment to a common grounding point near your master power input. This method should prevent a single failure from destroying everything.
Thanks.
Bill
-
Hey scintilla,
Did you ever get the config set up right and could you share those? As, I am in the same boat as not being able to purchase a new usb board.
-
Hello kthoma85,
Yes, my setup is running well (at last) as far as driving the motors, etc. is concerned, the problem I have had for some time has been the 'try before you buy' limitations of the Mach3 software.
You will probably find that the Bitsensor board is okay anyway but there are other boards for sale which are reasonably cheap and even more refined.
I understand that Mach3 is no longer being 'developed' (read: making it work for ordinary users) so I can offer you a couple of suggestions to see if they are of help.
Firstly, you need to be sure you have a license loaded into the Mach3 folder on your computer's drive. Without this, you cannot run more than about 50 lines of g.code.
Secondly, Follow the suggestions posted by Tweaky and Claudio. The settings they have posted have worked for me but you need to also look at settings for 'direction, homing, axis calibration' and so on to get your machine into working order. There are some good YouTubes for this.
I assume you are using a Chinese 6040 X,Y,Z and A (rotary) 4 axis setup.
If you don't make any progress doing all this I can transcribe all my settings in the Mach3 configuration tab but, as always with these things, it's better to plod through the tedious learning process so that you can better understand 'cause and effect'.
Can I also suggest that you have a look at the YouTube clips put out by Roger Webb and others, including the Artsoft tutorials, which go some way to clearing away the mists of this really poorly-contrived software.
It's a paradox when you are invited to download and try a program which doesn't run and which has a really counter-intuitive GUI.
I hope this is helpful :D ,
Scintilla.
-
I was troubled by the lack of any good interface documentation for this Bitsensor board, and so traced the schematic before starting to hook it up. Wvancura was correct, but the attached .pdf file provides more internal details. The schematic reference designators are arbitrary, and the schematic symbols are approximately correct for the functional behavior (for example, the two enable lines to the ULN2003N chip are actually active low, but I didn't want to figure out how to make the new object for an Eagle library). All voltages and returns are correct, as are the circuits associated with input and output.
There is a serious design error, if I have correctly interpreted the abbreviated surface mount device markings. A series diode in the 24V supply line prevents the catch diodes inside the ULN2003 from suppressing the inductive flyback when an external relay is turned off. The relay current will decay instead through a sneak path via an input if it has a switch connected to ground. It would be a good idea to provide your own external relay coil suppressor diodes, making sure to connect them properly (cathode to the positive terminal).
Mike
-
Sorry, I meant the two enable lines to the 'HC541 chip. The ULN2003 doesn't have any.
Which brings up another design error. The HC541 input logic levels are really not compatible with 3.3V driving logic. The HCT541 would have been the right choice, but the part on my board is clearly marked <abunchofcharacters>HC541, with a TI logo. The step and direction signals are coming out, though, so that part is working.
Mike
Ref: Bitsensor BSMCE04U USB board
-
Mike,
Really useful information. Thanks for sharing.
I'm using the same card on Mach 3. It has its limitations but so far it's been solid on my cutting requirements.
Just about to join the world of Mach 4 so need to purchase a new controller.... I'm not clued up on this after a long break from cnc world.
Cheers.
-
Hi two things,
As far as I know, the Bitsensor board is compatible with Mach4. It just doesn't have a manual for saying how.
Second:
I just updated my user guide for the BSMCEO4U. New name and new link. I have identical web pages on two different home servers in attempt for 100% up time. One in Chicago and the other in Rock Island, IL (see cnc.vancura.biz and cnc.vancura-innovations.com)
http://shoelessdave.com/Vancura.Innovations/files/BSMCEO4U%20Install%20Manual-converted%20wjv%202.2.pdf
http://vancura.biz/files/BSMCEO4U%20Install%20Manual-converted%20wjv%202.2.pdf
It is in effect a full translation from the Chinese version of the manual. I put some serious time into it trying to make American English out of it. I added a few more installation diagrams and some more documentation on the ports.
What it needs now is a Mach4 addendum. I personally don't plan to go to Mach4, but anyone willing to document their frustrations in setting it up, will be welcome to send me the procedure for publishing.
Bill
-
Hi,
As far as I know, the Bitsensor board is compatible with Mach4. It just doesn't have a manual for saying how.
Incorrect, it does not have a Mach4 plugin.
Craig
-
Hi,
I personally don't plan to go to Mach4, but anyone willing to document their frustrations in setting it up, will be welcome to send me the procedure for publishing.
I've been using Mach4 for six years, and yes there is a learning curve to set it up but thereafter it is light years ahead of Mach3.
This thread lists some of the many improvements:
https://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php?topic=42891.0 (https://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php?topic=42891.0)
Craig
-
Dear Wvancura, maybe you have some information, does this board support threading (does the index support signal)?
MF2D
-
MF2D
You asked: "does this board support threading (does the index support signal)?"
I'm not quite sure what you mean. by threading or signal. Please expand on your thought.
One thing, I wish I had the source code of the processor and the RNR driver.
Bill
-
I'm not quite sure what you mean. by threading or signal.
I meant the following: when using Mach3 with a lathe, Mach3 requires a signal index for threading. When using the LPT - port index, the signal is sent to the Index input, and the actual spindle revolutions are displayed in the STrue window. I gave an index signal to the input, but the mach does not respond to it. so my guess is that this feature is simply not supported. And it is impossible to cut threads on a lathe with this board. But maybe someone was still able to achieve this.
-
Hi,
single point lathe threading is a process that is enacted by a realtime motion controller.
The spindle index signal not only provides a pulse for the controller to work out the spindle speed, which
is in turn displayed by Mach, but it needs it to synchronize the z axis so repeated cuts of the same thread
are in the same 'groove'.
Mach alone cannot do that. The communication delay between the index signal (as presented to the controller)
and Mach receiving it will be several milliseconds at least. Mach would then have to decide when to move
the Z axis and communicate that back to the controller, another several milliseconds of delay, and that command
has to propagate through the motion buffer, maybe several hundred milliseconds more delay. The combined delay
means that all synchronization is lost.
Mach's original motion controller was the parallel port, and the parallel port driver was and is a very clever attempt
to have a Windows PC (a non realtime computing system) enact a realtime controller. Not withstanding its quirks
and limitations it does pretty well, to whit it makes a fair job of single point lathe threading. That means that the
parallel port could receive an index pulse and the port driver could calculate the exact instant that Z axis movement
need to commense and issue the pulses to the Z axis driver at that instant. It didn't have to refer to Mach, like
the 'general manager upstairs'........it could do it immediately, or realtime.
If instead of using Machs parallel port driver (as motion controller) you use an external motion controller, and in this
thread, the RnR/Bitsensor board it is the external board that must synchronize the cutting, and to my knowledge
the RnR/Bitsensor board does not have that capacity.
Craig
-
Hi,
As far as I can tell, The switch inputs IN1 to IN4 are passed directly to Mach3, and then handed back to the controller as needed. That said, some time passes in those transfers. The index signal can be tried, but I wouldn't know if it will work for you. The spindle speed is relatively slow when tapping so signal time may not be a big issue. It will depend on speed, response time, and how much slop you can tolerate.
Many VFDs have an incredible set of options that could perform whatever operations you plan. Unfortunately, if the manual isn't in English those features can get lost.
Bill
-
Hi,
The switch inputs IN1 to IN4 are passed directly to Mach3, and then handed back to the controller as needed
Incorrect, the index signal must be processed immediately. If Mach 'hands it back' the instructions have to propagate through the
motion buffer, hundreds of milliseconds delay........way WAY too slow to synchronize threading.
There was very extensive discussions about this on the forum 10 years or so ago when external motion controller manufacturers were
trying to get their devices to support single point lathe threading.
Craig
-
and to my knowledge
the RnR/Bitsensor board does not have that capacity.
Craig
Thanks Craig for the info!
Somehow I expected ...
Marat
-
Hi,
the only thing to recommend RnR/BitSenor motion control boards is their price.
They do work despite the dearth of published information and confusing pin numbering system but they have never
supported G31 probing, single point threading or hardware THC.
If you want or need any of those realtime supports then you need a different controller period.
If you want a more capable and better supported external motion board then you should chose an Ethernet connected device
being much more noise immune and lower latency. An Ethernet SmoothStepper or a 57CNC has all the realtime supports
listed above.
Craig
-
Hi two things,
As far as I know, the Bitsensor board is compatible with Mach4. It just doesn't have a manual for saying how.
Second:
I just updated my user guide for the BSMCEO4U. New name and new link. I have identical web pages on two different home servers in attempt for 100% up time. One in Chicago and the other in Rock Island, IL (see cnc.vancura.biz and cnc.vancura-innovations.com)
http://shoelessdave.com/Vancura.Innovations/files/BSMCEO4U%20Install%20Manual-converted%20wjv%202.2.pdf
http://vancura.biz/files/BSMCEO4U%20Install%20Manual-converted%20wjv%202.2.pdf
It is in effect a full translation from the Chinese version of the manual. I put some serious time into it trying to make American English out of it. I added a few more installation diagrams and some more documentation on the ports.
What it needs now is a Mach4 addendum. I personally don't plan to go to Mach4, but anyone willing to document their frustrations in setting it up, will be welcome to send me the procedure for publishing.
Bill
Hi,
Just to add a note of thanks. Very useful document.
One of the areas I struggled with for setup information was the ability to implement the gantry squaring function, I basically have two ballscrews used on a X and A axis. (Slaved)
I was keen to implement the independent homing of the the X and A with home switches and the benefit this gives keeping the gantry square.
So just a note to say it is possible with this card but I could not find any details on how to do it.
In summary I did the following :-
I had to remove the E-Stop function on the card Input. (I have another hardware method to cover this)
Used a dedicated X-axis home switch on input 1
Used a dedicated A-axis home switch on input 4
The Y and Z axis home switches wired in parallel to input 3
X,Y,Z, A limit switches are all wired in parallel to input 2
I also managed to keep the probe function by using this on Input 4. I was pleased to keep this function.
So my trade off is the removal of E-Stop input to the card that I cover with a hardwired system.
I edited the 'Ref All Home Button' script to the following.
DoButton( 24 )
DoButton( 23 )
RefCombination( 9 )
DoOEMButton(133)
DoOEMButton(134)
DoOEMButton(135)
So to clarify, now when I press this button the system will move the Z-axis to the top until the home switch is made, then it backs off and retracts very slowly to make the switch with more precision and zeros the axis. Then it moves to repeat this for the Y axis.
Finally it will then drive both my X and A axis at the same time until one of the X or A home switches is made. it then will stop on first switch made, do the retraction and Zero, and then drive the opposite axis to complete the squaring process.
Quite pleased overall with this basic low cost card for my needs.
Hopefully that info might be useful for someone trying to implement gantry squaring.
(There may be better methods but I could not find any information)
Cheers
-
Hi,
As you have discovered, you can merge switch inputs. Home and Limit switches may be one and the same (works for me). This could give you an extra input for a dedicated E-Stop.
The inputs you have on Input#3 are somewhat redundant with the ones on Input #2.
I don't have a second motor for X, so I was unaware you could home both slaved motors separately while slaved together.
I also use a slightly modified RefAllHome button.
One thing that the BSM board won't do is jog X & Y at the same time. The Parallel port interface allows this and I miss it occasionally.
Bill
-
Old thread warning.
For the sake of fellow machine addicts its best to keep this all in 1 thread .
Thank you mach support and the guys who actually offered useful help based on factual experience .
This has enabled me to control my (alleged) 40w laser from either the avi output or any other output .
I know that many may not agree with the cheap units but this is life these days and most or all the conponents in all units are sourced from those countries anyway.
the newer drive boards like the latest tb6600 and the dm542(even better) actually works better than the g540 , at least they drive my motors smoother with very very little idle chatter like my g540 seems to have .
Recently I had an issue with my g540 and the circuit diagram that is all over the web is from a very old model and when I asked
the makers for a diagram there was not even an acknowledgement that it was the case.
The g540 weakness is that the pcb tracks are very very fine and prolonged exposure to condensation moisture has seen them dissolve ,Im sure that the wood and aluminum dust did not help in any way .
I was able to repair the g540 but its a very dodgy repair .
Any way my "Birdcard" is doing great now with every usb port on any machines so far .
Its great to be able to work on the laptop any where and just plug it in and go .
Thank you all very much .
-
I hate buying something and it not working. I wanted this simple USB to connect a laptop to projects. SO I spent days reading and trying to get it to work...And voila consistent working red and blue usb boards. HOW DID YOU DO IT YOU ASK??? I literally followed directions.
You must load MACH 3 uncheck device driver that doe the LPT port. DO NOT START ANY SOFTWARE copy RNR driver to plugin folder.
SHUT DOWN COMPUTER
Start computer
If you have the xml file from searching the web for the mill copy it into mach3
use MACH3 loader create new mill name using xml
start new mill xml
test reset if it stops flashing you did it in the correct order
if no worky uninstall mach3
delete mach3 folder and start over.
I was able to get my red and blue usb boards to work on windows 7,8,10,1064
I load an SSD in an old laptop and it is lightning fast boots in 4 seconds after you shut off the 24 windows intrusion of your privacy system controls. You have to shut off all the software security crap all the user interogation software all the web blocking web security crap and just shut off wifi when running system so it isn't interupted when machining.
I use 4 different pendants a bit of configuring since I do it through USB and wireless usb setting up my button controls. I have also used pendant wired to board
-
Hello to all
It's great that you share your experiences here.
I have a question about the port and PIN settings on the Mach3 USB Board.
I installed all the limit switches in parallel and put them into input 2. Also, I connected all home switches in parallel and put them inot Input 3.
The device works well and the homing process is done perfect and the limit switches work properly.
Now, my question is that in the diagnostic screen, when I activate one of the limit switches, all the LEDs related to the limit switch are activated (which is normal because I connected them all in parallel), as well as for the home switches. But in many videos and documents, I see that the microswitches of each axis send signals separately, so it is clear which axis's microswitch is involved.
Because I know that in order for the signal to be sent separately to each axis, the microswitches of each axis must be connected in series and connected to the board separately (through ports 10, 11, 12)
Is there a way I can set ports 10 to 12 as limit switches? This cannot be done in the pin and port settings. I think that in general this board does not have these features.
Finally, my ultimate goal is to be able to remove the home switches and use limit switches as home switches.
Can I do this using this board? For example with a macro
Thanks in advance for your information
-
You could wire the home switches to 10,11,12 and then use softlimits instead of switches.
-
Thanks,
On the board we have only IN1, IN2, IN3, IN4. Where can I find the 10, 11, 12?
-
You can connect all normally closed home switches in series and connect them to IN1 :-
-
I hate buying something and it not working. I wanted this simple USB to connect a laptop to projects. SO I spent days reading and trying to get it to work...And voila consistent working red and blue usb boards. HOW DID YOU DO IT YOU ASK??? I literally followed directions.
You must load MACH 3 uncheck device driver that doe the LPT port. DO NOT START ANY SOFTWARE copy RNR driver to plugin folder.
SHUT DOWN COMPUTER
Start computer
If you have the xml file from searching the web for the mill copy it into mach3
use MACH3 loader create new mill name using xml
start new mill xml
test reset if it stops flashing you did it in the correct order
if no worky uninstall mach3
delete mach3 folder and start over.
I was able to get my red and blue usb boards to work on windows 7,8,10,1064
I load an SSD in an old laptop and it is lightning fast boots in 4 seconds after you shut off the 24 windows intrusion of your privacy system controls. You have to shut off all the software security crap all the user interogation software all the web blocking web security crap and just shut off wifi when running system so it isn't interupted when machining.
I use 4 different pendants a bit of configuring since I do it through USB and wireless usb setting up my button controls. I have also used pendant wired to boardwordle (https://wordlewebsite.com)
Had the same problem and thanks to your detailed instructions my problem was resolved. Thanks a lot.
-
Hello Wvancura,
What a great help to receive these settings for my machine! ;D
I will reset my Ports and Pins as shown and report the results ASAP.
I can see that this information will be a real boon to all the many frustrated Mach3-ers who have faced this information vacuum.
Many thanks for taking the trouble to put us on the right track, at last :)
Scintilla.
did you get your limits to work?