Machsupport Forum
General CNC Chat => Share Your GCode => Topic started by: ART on July 11, 2007, 09:14:12 AM
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Hi Guys:
I thought itd be a good idea to have a "Share the Gcode board", for when you have a sharp looking project youd like to share.
Ill start it off witha file I got for debugging. I cut it and it looks great. Please describe your files briefly, or provide a photo.
This one is a Royal Enfield Logo for Motor cycles. Nice pice, about 173 x 150mm's in size, 1mm deep.
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MR ART
did you have a enfield,i had one and road it for 4 years.
thanks bill
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Hi Art
What shape has the tool to cut this item?
Greetings:
W.Jansen
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Hi Bill:
It was a sharp pointed engraving bit..
.032 I think..
Art
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This is a sub routine for making a work holding jig grid pattern 5" by 6" with 1" centers using 3/16 drill . You can easly modify this code to whatever size you need with copy and paste in MS note pad. Hope this helps someone out.
G90G01X0Y0Z1.0F50 (G90= absolute positioning command G01= linear movment)
X0.0Y0.0
G83R.125Q.125Z-1.50F50.G98 (G83= drill peck cycle R= retract value Q= amount of each peck G98 = return to intial absolute Z value G99=return to intial R value.)
M98 P12 L5 (M98=call beginning of subroutine P= subroutine name value L= number of times you want to loop the subroutine.)
G90G01Z1.0
X1.0Y0.0
G83R.125Q.125Z-1.50F50.G98
M98 P13 L5
G90G01Z1.0
X2.0Y0.0
G83R.125Q.125Z-1.50F50.G98
M98 P14 L5
G90G01Z1.0
X3.0Y0.0
G83R.125Q.125Z-1.50F50.G98
M98 P15 L5
G90G01Z1.0
X4.0Y0.0
G83R.125Q.125Z-1.50F50.G98
M98 P16 L5
G90G01Z1.0
X5.0Y0.0
G83R.125Q.125Z-1.50F50.G98
M98 P17 L5
G90G01Z1.0
M30 (end of program and rewind of program)
%
O12 (Letter O= call to subroutine name value defined)
G91X0.0Y-1.0F50 (G91= Incremental movement point to point only.)
M99(M99=end of subroutine)
%
O13
G91X0.0Y-1.0F50
M99
%
O14
G91X0.0Y-1.0F50
M99
%
O15
G91X0.0Y-1.0F50
M99
%
O16
G91X0.0Y-1.0F50
M99
%
O17
G91X0.0Y-1.0F50
M99
%
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Hi everybody,
I just love lithophanes and for anyone who hasn't seen one then why not make your own.
This low resolution lithophane (comprising of 172 horizontal lines) was cut using a 2mm dia ball nose milling cutter. The material used is 3mm thick, white, opal, ‘plexi-glass’ and the depth of cut ranges from zero to 2.5mm. The maximum ‘step over’ was set to 0.5mm and the cutting was completed in a one depth pass with a total cutting time of about 45 Minutes. The actual size of the blank is 100mm x 86mm and the start point (X zero and Y zero) is dead centre of this. The Z axis zero point is with the cutter just clear of the surface of the work. Depending on your spindle speed you may wish to adjust the feed rate that is currently set at F450.
Best regards, Cooperman.
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Sorry, mistake.
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Here is another low res. lithophane with the G-Code for anyone that is interested.
The blank is 150mm high and 105mm wide by 3mm thick,white, opal, Plexiglas. The X and Y zero are dead centre of the blank and Z zero is with the tool just clear of the surface of the blank. The cutting tool should be a 2mm dia ball nose. Again you may need to change the feedrate.
Enjoy.
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Wow. Nice Litho thingies did you write the G code for these yourself ? I would imagine that would take a very long time or can you get a program to convert a picture? Do you normally light these from below? I hope you'll excuse my thickness but what is white,opal, Plexiglas ? It two toned somehow ie surface white and under it is opal ?
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Plexiglas is opaque perspex - the type of stuff used on the surface of light boxes (by pcb makers) or for outdoor illuminated shop signs. It is the same color right through. Lithophanes are made by converting a photo or other image to a 'height map' which is then used to produce the GCode. 'Mach1 filter' will do this job converting .bmp or .hpgl files to GCode (it can be downloaded from the Artsoft site). The height map is used in reverse (negative) so that white is cut deep and black is cut shallow, if at all. The litho is back lit, the ones shown above are just stood on a window sill and that does it just fine. Please check out my website for further details http://www.cooperman.talktalk.net
Tweakie.
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'Mach1 filter' will do this job converting .bmp or .hpgl files to GCode (it can be downloaded from the Artsoft site).
Any chance you could point out the link? I must be an idiot as I can't find that! lol!
As always, the work is beautiful!
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Thanks for all the complements. You can download Mach1 filter from here :-
http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,6544.0.html
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Excellent, thank you sir- ;)
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Excellent site. Clear and easy to navigate. You have spent a lot of time getting this stuff right by the look of it and the quality does you justice. You need to build a 10m router now to start making yachts :)
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Hey, Hello everyone I am a beginer and don't know how to design and cut. But I have built my machine and got the mach 3. and already cut a scorpian. beatifull. I m a carpenter but not a computer weeeez. LOL. So pleas help, where can I get some ready G code projects to download from and have fun, untill I learn all the tricks of the game. Thanx to anyone who can help me. E male: frmco@sbcglobal.net. Regards from California:
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You could try this tiger which a few of us have cut now.
You need to adjust the scale DRO's for the size you require and Feedrates etc to suit your machine.
I used a 2.5mm ballnose cuter at a feedrate of 400mm / min. (although my acceleration settings only allowed this feedrate to be achieved on the straight runs). The first cut is deep so the start position should be just overlapping the work by 1mm or so or else cut at a very reduced feedrate.
I have also attached Gemme which is nice if cut in oak or teak. Again adjust the feedrates to suit your machine and reduced feed for the first cut.
Tweakie.
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Thanx Tweakie.cnc I'll give this tiger a try and let you know the results. and if there are any more stuff please let me know. Thanx again
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Here is another one for you. I haven't tried cutting this one yet as it was just an experiment to try 'BMP Bender'.
The .TIF was downloaded from the 'Majosoft' website and saved as a .BMP then converted to an .STL using the free program 'BMP Bender'. The GCode toolpath was created with the trial version of 'DeskProto'.
Looking at the Mach window display of the work shows the limitations of resolution associated with BMP Bender but as the steps are quite shallow these should be reduced in the cutting and may not even be noticeable in the finished work. As I said earlier, this is an experiment, perhaps someone would like to cut it and post their results.
Tweakie.
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Hi Tweakie.CNC I cut the G2t2 and it was fine thanks for the favour. I really should learn how to convert DXF files to G code for the mach. Do you have any Idea where can I get some information on that? I appreciate it.
Robert. frmco@sbcglobal.net
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Hi Robert,
As you already have LazyCam as part of the Mach install this would be a good place to start. It is not perfect and still has a few little quirks but once you have learned to use it you should be able to achieve excellent results at converting DXF to GCode.
The Mach1filter (mentioned earlier in this thread) is also a good starting point for creating height / depth maps and would make a brilliant job of creating the G2T2 file (you have just cut) from a bitmap image.
The great advantage of these programs is the zero cost aspect and when your knowledge starts to exceed the programs capabilities you could then progress to more advanced (and more expensive) software. In other words, don't buy anything until you know exactly what you need.
Tweakie.
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Hi Robert,
A bit of extra info. You can download the LazyCam manual from the members documents section here http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,12078.0.html
Tweakie
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thnx I studied the manual and the instructions and learned quit a bit thnx for the big help.
Now I realized that my LC. can not load all of the G codes. for instance, I write a word and it only loads just 1 letter which is to big or half of the letter.
Is this because of the free version I have or not? and if so, I will then purchase a full version of Mach and LC. But altogether right now I have given up.
LOL. I am fed up. Thnx for your efford to help me, I seem to be hopeless. hahaha. but no problem I am very good at Golf and tennis instead.
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Come on Robert - Don't give up that easily.
Building your own machine was the hardest part - It's all plain sailing from now on.
You could try finding some DXF's that you like from this thread on the Zone http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19346 then using LazyCam create the GCode and start engraving stuff. Before you know it, your wife will be complaining that you have far too many place mats and coasters. ;D
Tweakie.
btw. You are certainly not the oldest guy who is just starting out on the world of CNC.
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Hey Tweakie.CNC:-) I really appreciate your encouragement and I love you as a friend. I will now try what you suggested and let you know the results. thanks a million for the help. many regards: Robert