Machsupport Forum
Mach Discussion => General Mach Discussion => Topic started by: Billy De on October 17, 2017, 07:10:29 AM
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Hi...I am trying to get info on how to connect a Z Touch Plate on a Chinese 3040T...I can not get any help from Where I Purchased it, Asked for a schematic etc...nothing.... Does anyone know how to hook up a Z Touch Plate with one of these... The 3040T ..Has the Single Cable Output from the Controller to the Engraver...
TIA
Billy
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Hi,
do you have a spare input on your controller?
Craig
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This may help; http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,10088.0.html (http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,10088.0.html)
Tweakie.
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Thanks but I am Looking for the Actual...Red Wire goes here, Black Wire Goes There...
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It has to intercept a signal to the stepper motor...correct?....
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Would I come off the Power Supply...or off the Z Board...I have to assign it a PIN and a Low Out put...Just not 100% Sure and I would hate to blow anything up
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It has to intercept a signal to the stepper motor...correct?....
NO
You take a wire from whichever Port and Pin is assigned as 'Probe' in Config. / Ports and Pins. This wire is connected to your 'touch plate'. If your cutting tool is not already connected to GND then you may need an additional wire. You then add a suitable script to the on-screen Auto Tool Zero button.
Tweakie.
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Thank you ! ! Every thing I looked at was saying something a bit different . ! ! !
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Hi,
so do you have a spare input you can assign as a probe input?
Craig
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I have to Double Check ...I believe...pin 5 & 14...I popped open the Control Box last week to take a look
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Hi,
if you are using a parallel port pins 5 and 15 are both outputs and no good to you, you need a spare input, pins 10-13 and pin 15 with PP,
Craig
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Hi Billy,
can you confirm that you are using a parallel port?
Craig
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Yes Parallel port...I had a Wake to go to yesterday...
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Hi,
crikey....hope its not your own wake! LOL.
Ok with a parallel port you only have 5 inputs, 10-13 and 15. It is quite probable that they are already used with limits, homes etc. If you can
economise on those other inputs all well and good but if not then you will need a second port. If you install a PCI to parallel card with the correct
driver you should be in business. Unfortunately not all, in fact not many PCI to parallel cards work with Mach. One of the challenges of parallel
ports I'm afraid.
If you do have a working second port then you enter its address on Config/Ports and Pins/Port Setup and Axis Selection in the Port #2 panel you can
optionally nominate pins 2-9 as inputs rather than the more normal outputs. That would mean that with the second port you'll have 13 inputs, 2-13 and 15,
plenty of inputs in short.
Do you have any input pins leftover on your existing port? You can do visual inspection of the BoB or you can post your xml file and I could help.
If you don't then get a working PCI to parallel card. It seems that there are a few cards which are actually PCI to serial but emulate a parallel port
as an added bonus. While they might work a printer they wont work Mach. Find a card that does PCI to parallel ONLY. It is likely that such a card will
adhere to the original parallel port spec which is required by Mach.
Craig
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I will Do That....Thank you ! ! !....Noel, who used to work with us...Passed away...He was 82
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xml file attached and machine specs....Thanks Craig for taking a peek
Hi Craig...This is the Machine Specs
Effective working travel 275(X)mm*385(Y)mm*60(Z)mm
dimension 610x480*400mm
Max.workpiece dimension 70mm
Work table dimension 320mm*530mm
Frame materials aluminum alloy 6063 and 6061
Leadscrew 1404 double thread Trapezoidal screws
Driving units X axis 1404 trapezoidal screws
Y axis 1404 trapezoidal screws
Z axis 1404 trapezoidal screws
Sliding units X axis Dia.16mm chrome plate shafts
Y axis Dia.16mm chrome plate shafts
Z axis Dia.12mm chrome plate shafts
Stepping motor type 57 two-phase 1.8A
Spindle motor 400w dc motor 500~8000PRM/Min
Principal axis collet ER11 / 3.175 mm
Repeat accuracy 0.05mm
Spindle precision radial beat acuities 0.03 mm
Control unit triaxial one-piece drive + ring variable power + PWM speed
Carving Instructions G-code/.tab /.nc / .ncc/.txt
Communication interface through parallel port connection with computer
Software environment Windows 2000 / xp
Maximum speed 0-4000mm/min
Carving speed 300-2500mm/min (different materials differ)
Machine weight
28KG
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Hi Billy,
That's the wrong .xml file.
You need to find Mach3Mill.xml (or if you are using a different Profile then <your profile> .xml).
Tweakie.
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Thats what I Have...I Just renamed it to Billys ...I just double checked...I never gave it a name I guess....
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OH Crap Thats Turn I Just Noticed
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ughhh Here you go,,,,sorry...had to re-name would not let me attach
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Hi Guys Thanks for all your help...Another issue...its now cutting a path inbetween letters. Like cutting the path it takes between the Letter B cuts path ti the Next Letter etc......I give up....I am off to Noels Funeral....
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Hi Billy,
couple of issues, you are using outputs 16 and 17 for X step and dir pins and yet you are using pin 16 as Output#1.
May I suggest using pins 2 and 3 as X step and dir, will require you wire your driver to the new pin locations.
You have five enable outputs, Enable1 thru 5, all attached to the same pin. Its probable they will fight. Just use one output for one pin and
connect that pin to all your drivers enable terminal.
Retain Enable1 as active low, disable Enable2 thru 5.
Craig
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Thank you...I was going by what they suggested....I have been trying to get some sort of Schematic or Wiring Diagram from them....some sort of documentation...and nothing...So I contacted the seller and Ebay...This has been a horrible experience...If not for you and Tweakie...I do not know what I would have done....Now it is cutting paths in between letters
Cuts the Letter A like its a N.....I am at my wits end....or I get something like R_M/ T...Like its also cutting the path to the letter
Billy
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Hi Billy,
You really are not having too much luck with all this.
Can you post a copy of the Gcode file that is giving this cutting between letters problem. Then we can at least establish if it's a software problem or a machine problem (perhaps).
Tweakie.
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I will...I set it in Engravelab...Export as DXF...Bring in to Lazy Cam...Looks Good...Post to Mach and its like Mach had too much to drink that day...I'll Send the DXF and Tap...Give me about 30 mins...I am running plates on the vulcanizers ...We have 800 sheets of Rubber we need to get out
Thank you
Billy
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Hi Guys Here's a couple of samples...I have tried to save every which way and this is what I get
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Hi Billy,
the second sample I see as a whole line of the letter 'a' all linked together. It looks like the tool doesn't retract between letters. Is this what you
want?. Its certainly the Gcode you've given your machine.
Craig
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Each Letter should be separate....I am doing some scaling experimenting as well
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Hi Billy,
Your .dxf's are just fine but the generated Gcode is useless.
I really think you should call time on LazyCam and use a decent CAD/CAM software that is going to make a proper job.
Tweakie.
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What would you suggest...What I am doing now is making the Job 4x's as big....Ran it through Lazycan....Have the x & y at 25% in Mach....Amanda Smith Looks Normal....
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I am really trying to Like this thing...Not asking it to do a lot...Appreciate all the help
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Hi Billy,
Not your fault my friend if the tools you are using are not the best.
F-Engrave is free; http://scorchworks.com/Fengrave/fengrave.html
Vectric costs money; http://www.vectric.com/products/aspire.html
I use both of these (used F-Engrave for rotary engraving less than 0.5 mm high and V-Carving a 2 Metre long, 10 mm or so deep, Teak sign).
Tweakie.
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Forgot to mention the work is created within the CAD/CAM software - no need to import .dxf from Engravelab.
Tweakie.
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I will give it a shot and thank you...for now...this seems to be a work around, but would rather have the "true work" :)
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Hi Tweakie
Got the F-Engrave...The only thing I need to do it to give it a Height...Did a Test on a nameplate and it held within the 1 x 6 frame area.....The Height was .25" (24pt type).....I will test it more on Monday...But it read the DXF Perfectly...
THANK YOU ! ! !
Billy
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Hi Billy,
once you've got your machine to the point that it will faithfully follow the G code it is given, and it sounds like you are close, the 'real'
work of CNC begins.
If there is anything like 'creative' work of genuine skill and experience its crafting the G code for your machine to 'digest'. You may get away buying a cheap Chinese
router but if you expect poor CAD/CAM software to produce acceptable results you're dreaming. Amongst the skills that you'll need to acquire is to be able to read
small sections of G code and understand what the machine will do when it encounters it.
Craig
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I know....ughhhh :) All because we wanted to take some use off of the Dahlgren....Signs, Nameplates & Embossers...Nothing really fancy or intricate .... I am more upset that I could not get any type of Manual for this thing, documentation....All I got was...Manufacturer does not have...B.S.!...Its in the Hands of Ebay Now :)
But one again...Thank you All...At least we have a working and a Work Around now
Billy
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Hi Billy,
you are obviously a busy guy, working a responsible job that is technically demanding, ie you have a working brain. What suggested to you that a very cheap
Chinese made router would be a fit with your business requirements?
Craig
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Its not for a heavy work-load...We sell a lot of embossers...Leaves little time for Nameplates badges etc.....Saw this on line and...for under $600 worth a shot..Saw Videos on youtube of people using if for something similar..Better than about $4000....Anteras Does make bits for CNC that match up with our bits for the Dahlgren....30 degree & 45 degree angles .010 to .060 is what we use the most....Also...what we found out after the fact...Is that for Brass you can only cut about .01" at a pass...so for embossers we would have to make 2 runs to get to about .020" deep....The Person from Precise bits gave us some wrong information at first...did not think he caught on to what we were doing...Very Nice Guy...But was hearing us, not listening...Basically said to start with our Dahlgren settings at take it from there...SNAP went the bit....Then he back tracked a little.. I did send him some brass so he could run some tests on what we use.....But without any documentation on the Actual Engraver...it was a bit more rough...But thanks to You and Tweakie...I have a much better understanding of the basics that I could have imagined since we first got this thing....I will upload some pictures of what the Dahlgren Engraves and what this Engraves....We are a lot closer thanks to all your help ! ! !
Billy
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Simple...These are tests on CNC..Look the Ashley One Works !
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Hi Billy,
many a person has bought a Chinese router only to find they are rather more limited than they imagined. The Chinese are not at fault here,
they certainly don't disabuse a buyer of the realities but they play on the fact that most buyers have no idea how rigid a machine has to be.
Especially when cutting metals. If you think brass is a challenge try stainless steel!
Having said all that, and if you track any of my other posts you'll realise I'm very scathing of Chinese suppliers, they do provide products that people
can afford. You are a prime example...the price was so good that you wanted to try. Even if you throw away all the Chinese electronics as just plain
troublesome then the mechanical parts left over still represent pretty good value for money. If the mechanics are not rigid enuf for your purposes
then you should have bought more rigid design, that is to say its your fault not the Chinese.
Notwithstanding the frustration and effort to get it to work you are there or close to it. Once you get used to generating the required Gcode and understanding
the limitations of the machine you'll be fine.
I have a much better understanding of the basics that I could have imagined since we first got this thing....
That understanding is hard fought but you will use it over and over again.
Craig
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If it was something for Heavy Duty Use...Heck No ! ! !...But for Plastic and Soft 1 x 2 or 2" Round Pieces of Brass...It should be fine...But Yes....Cheap is Cheap....I agree
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Hi Billy,
well you've discovered that even cutting plastic and brass requires rigidity. Thats plain physics.
Craig
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Funny...I Filed a Complaint with Ebay....All of a sudden...The Seller has Documentation on the machine...Go Figure
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Hi Billy,
that's good news....or is it?. I repair welding equipment for a living and a lot of Chinese gear comes in. Where there is service info about 50% of it
so badly written or just plain mistaken that it is literally worse than useless. This isn't just a bad translation its gibberish!
Craig