Machsupport Forum
Mach Discussion => General Mach Discussion => Topic started by: SlikChit on October 07, 2012, 04:44:26 AM
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Ok, I've looked through the videos and read through the manual (skimmed - but I'm pretty technical), got past the estop, then came the home the limit switches all showing activation. Now, no indicators tripped, try to goto home and I get a message saying that I need to "ref all". I do and values start changing in the axis window, meanwhile nothing happens. I have also noticed that when I try to jog(tab to access jog control) all I have is a mpg thing with a feed rate that can't be changed. I can't figure out how to change the jog mode from mpg. I'm using a brand new ez-router that was tested with the computer and software. So much for being able to load a file and hit start lol
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If you click on the jog mode button in the mpg flyout does it go to cont.?
Also, in the attached picture at the bottom is the slow jog feed rate DRO. Clicik in it, it will change colors, enter a value, HIT ENTER. Should change colors again and value you entered should stick.
Brett
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See, I don't have those buttons and options on my jog control popup, I've tried clicking everywhere and nothing changes. All that's there is "MPG", a blank window on the top dial, and the feed rate at the bottom, no value, just blank. As I stated, prior to shipping, they tested my unit with my computer and everything worked. I'll take a screenie shortly
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/07/7amyhage.jpg)
Here you go, this the jog control that pops up when I hit tab. I'm sorry in advance if this has been covered elsewhere, I'm really not trying to hit the ground running and bypass the videos and manual, at this point, I'm just trying to do the initial startup and home my axis.
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Try loading the stock screens, 1024.set
You're using a custom screen that is either missing some bitmaps, or missing controls that are on the stock screen.
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I think you should probably talk to ez-router. I don't mind helping at all but I have no idea how they have things set up. You have heard the old saying that there is more than one way to skin a cat. With Mach that is such an understatement. ;D
Brett
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Yeah, I put a message through to support last night cause I wasn't sure where to start. I understand the estop needing to be switched in the pins and ports, as sort of a safety feature (I guess), but the tripped condition of the home switches on all 3 axis upon power up when no limit switches are being contacted makes me wonder if I'm missing a step somewhere. I am typically the type that only uses a manual as reference, but in this case, when I'm spending this kind of money (investing is better terms), I don't wanna skip any steps and I want to learn as much as I can about every aspect - both software and hardware, which I fully understand, takes lots of time and trial and error. So all that said, I am really pleased with my purchase, but the "manual" that came with the unit is a DVD with pdf's, broken down into not so informative paragraphs referring to another PDF file (reminds me of a Haynes repair manual - looking for the fuse box, you turn to the section for the fuse and electrical system and you are referred to the interior features section, where they conveniently redirect you to the external electrical and drivetrain section, and then told to check the fluids and quantities section in the routine maintenance section in the front of the book...by this time, you have forgot what you are even looking for). I'm trying to do it right, just no real order to things.
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Got the .1024 loaded, thx. But still no joggy... I'm gonna try calling my guy at ez-Router, hopefully I can get ahold of him today, I have a day job m-f and I need to get this thing running so I can get the bugs in my designs worked out before materials start arriving for the jobs I've landed. I know, wish you had a dollar everytime you read this lol.
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A note to the wise. DO NOT go changing a lot of things around. The more your change the more confused you will become will make the trouble shooting harder for the tech to help you undue all the changes you made BEFORE he can get back to getting it up and running.
They are using special screens and probably routines to make it all work as they intended. They are the only ones that know for sure how it is supposed to be configured.
Just a thought, (;-) TP
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that's what I'm thinking as well. I got in touch with him, but will have to wait till tomorrow to speak with a tech. I figured as much, it's the story of my life. Oh well, now to just reset everything and power back down. Perhaps next weekend I'll finally get to fire up this thing that cost more than my 2 vehicles combined, that's now been sitting here for a week taking up my whole garage. Thanks for the help guys, i guess I have a whole day of reading and videos ahead of me, might as well be productive of some level lol. Thanks for the help, sorry to trouble yall,
Kevin
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No trouble at all Kevin, I just don't want to cause you any either. If they had it running with your PC and tested they will probably get you running very quick.
Brett
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Problem solved, I am officially an idiot, and I'm embarrassed to say this, but I had the parallel cable plugged into a parallel port-looking port on the back of the supplied PC, not the printer parallel port. I didn't even see the pink colored one before honestly. Got my unit zero'd and homed, now I'm gonna get set up to plane my spoil board and try running a few designs in some scrap wood...after I read a lot more, that is lol thx again, sure this won't be the last time you hear from me, but I promise to research before posting hehe
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;D
Brett
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Been there and done that as well(;-)
(;-) TP
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I can't even remember the last time I've had to deal with a parallel port lol. I've been able to get everything to its home location and played around with jogging to make sure all axis and switches are functioning. I haven't fired up the spindle yet, as I'm watching all the videos on setup and configuring before I get into that. Not sure if it'll happen tonight, seeing how its already 9:00 an I have a 18month old son sleeping on the other side of one of the garage walls. But at least I know that everything (so far) seems to be functioning properly. Plus, I still need to figure out the tool touch off and all of that stuff, then there's getting my Gcode into mach3 (I assume that my aspire file has it embedded so all I would need to do is load the file into the Mach3 software). Again, I haven't got that far lol
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A good startup practice session can be done by putting a pencil or pen in the spindle and draw a few things before you commit to actually cutting. You can also do that quietly so not to disturb anyone (;-)
(;-) TP
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Hey, good idea! Yeah, I've seen those plotter marker inserts for the routers, I don't have a use personally, but I think I may fool around with that tonight, to quench my curiosity. I was hoping to purchase a unit with a liquid-cooled spindle for longevity and noise factors, but the fan-cooled on the one they fired up at the factory wasn't quite as loud as a shop vac, and I can always upgrade at a later time(although I'd have to make it work with my unit, ez-router only offers fan-cooled spindles), I guess the controller software would take care of controlling it? I devoted a lot of the past 2 months to learning Aspire and designing my parts and optimizing tool paths, now I feel a bit overwhelmed with all this controller and post processor stuff. I knew that it wasn't "easy" or everyone would be a machinist, but damn. I feel like I'm taking a crash-course in mechanical engineering, computer programming and digital design/engineering all at once with only cliff notes to prep for the test lol.
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YEP you just described DIY CNC. Jack of all trades (;-) TP To hear it told you just scan the picture and push the button and instant part.
(;-) TP
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Here is a couple examples of plotter pens if your interested.
http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,16012.0.html
Rich made the super mega duty awesome one, and I made the dumbed down hillbilly McGyver version :)
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I'm going with a sharpie, but having trouble A)getting my G code from Aspire (different computer, licensed copy) to my router pc B) made a lazy cam file of the aspire file, with G-code, but when I start it, it jogs to position then triggers the Z+ limit switch and stops. Being my first g code output, lack of knowledge/experience, I know that it's my Z settings, but at this point. I can't even think straight. Perhaps tomorrow, but I won't hold my breath lol
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Hi SlikChit,
There is no need to use lazycam, Aspire will output G code straight to Mach3, just choose the post processor from the drop down list when you save your Aspire file, I use Vcarve Pro and it works brilliantly.
Keep plugging away, it will all come together soon.
RonC
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Ron, thx for the reply...I woke up last night and decided to rewatch the tutorials from the very beginning. In doing so, I learned a whole lot that I had missed in my skimming through. I was able to get it up and moving last night(early this morning) with a sharpie in the collet and the spindle off. The important thing is I have it functioning properly now. Now I just need to change the orientation of my table in mach3 and make a spring-loaded pen plotter and I think I'm set. I know that I should plane my mfd spoil board, but I haven't had time and don't have any extraction in place as of yet, so I'm just playing for now.
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:)
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/10/e7uqyqum.jpg)
Here's what I got for my first "successful" go at running code on my unit(and first time period for me). It's one of 3 variations of my company logo, this one being more of a girlie one, but still looks cool enough to keep around. It took about 6-8 sharpies, due to the non-planed surface. I started in the lower right corner at 100ips and got distracted by my wife and didn't catch the sharpie dying. But in any case, it's a great learning experience on how to find where it faded out, by scrolling through the code and picking up where it left off. Obviously, at the time, I didn't think to set the Z depth in the area I was working on, and kept setting it near the TC position lol. Rookie mistakes, I know hehe
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Oh yeah, Sam, great tutorial on the pen plotter, made one in 5seconds. Only issue with mine is the pen body was kind of flimsy and would flex at times and skew the output. Maybe a piece of copper pipe over the pen body for cheap DIY reinforcement, or SS brake line or similar tubing
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On your way now! :)
Brett
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Thank you. I cut everything down so it is only about 2 inches long. No more flex. Just gotta be careful when ya cut the ink tube so as not to make a mess. Nice job on the logo. I thought the faded crosshatch was intentional, before I read the post.
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Lol thx. Yeah, after going over it a few times at different set depths, it looks way better and more intentional. I thought about chopping the pen down, but didn't feel like dealing with the mess if the ink did decide to make one. I'm wanting to figure out a spring mechanism for the sharpies, might end up with something like the bigger one where Sam posted his. I think it was Rich that made it (has the adjustment knob). Mine won't be that fancy at this point, but simple and effective(hopefully). As for Z setup, I used a piece of 12 gauge copper wire and straightened it out as much as I could in 5 seconds or so, measured it to at least the length of the marker, and taped it to the collet nut so that it was 3-4mm higher than the tip of the sharpie at the touch-of plate to compensate for the constant rate of pressure across an uneven surface. It worked well enough for my purposes of goofing off. Believe it or not, I posted a pic to a couple of buddies and one of them wants to buy it! So I told him I'd cut it out this weekend for him. And here I was planning on just planing it and starting over lol
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While we are on the on the subject...can we talk about spindle speeds and setup in the tool database? Okay, I created a new category - pen plotters and set it up like a drag tool, but tried to set the spindle speed to 0, but it wouldn't allow it. So I instead, set it to 1rpm and noticed that it seems to do the trick, allowing for the marker to rotate on turns as a knife would. I just want to make sure that I'm going about this the right way. I wouldn't be opposed to some rotation, like 15-20rpm, thinking that this could save on tip wear and distortion, or it could cause it to fray and fail, I have no clue lol. I haven't tried yet, because of noise fears hehe