Machsupport Forum
Third party software and hardware support forums. => Galil => Topic started by: freecr on December 09, 2011, 11:18:23 AM
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Hi guys, I’m sorry for the length. Please read and help if you can. Please tell me if this is the right place to post this as well. It might be more of a general question.
I’m converting a Fryer MB11 bed mill with a dead Anilam 1100M control to Mach3. I was considering updating it to Mach3 prior to it dying anyways. Then it died unexpectantly and I was not able to map out the wiring and what makes it tick while it was working. I’m reusing as much as possible. So that means DC servos and Anilam’s amp boards. I bought a Galil DMC-4040 Accerera motion control off of eBay. The Galil is connected via Ethernet port to an almost new touchscreen computer running Windows 7 64bit. Basically a computer built onto the back of a monitor. I’ve loaded the software and add-on and seem to have that worked out. I might/probably need to do some configuring yet. The limits and the encoders work. I have what amounts to a manual mill with DRO. I can’t “turn on” the servos then yet “move” them. I don’t know what the conventional terms are, so… before the Anilam died when I reset the servos they would power up in a way that held the axis’s stationary. I’m going to call that “turn on” IF after that, it received a movement command THEN it moved. I’m going to call that “move” ” or “moving”.
The parts that were reused are a relay board, a power supply, three Anilam analog amp boards, and three Anilam 37000117 DC servos. I know I have something wrong with the wiring and or the configuring and or the operation of Mach3. The power supply is just a bridge rectifier (BR) connected to a big capacitor, Two wires (115VAC) feeds the BR then two wires feed the capacitor and then out of the capacitor comes 12 thinner wires to feed the amp boards. Six wires come out of each of the two screws on the capacitor, two positive and two negative wires to each amp board. All amps and motors are wired the same. In addition to the DC “in” wires the amps each have four thin (2 of each) DC “out” wires going to the motors from the same amp wire plug/harness (J4). Also there are five wires to the (J1) plug/harness. Two thick wires (white and light green) go to the motor, two more (red and black) for what I think are the +-10VDC that used to go to the Anilam motion control board that now go to the Galil. The last wire (blue) is jumpered to all three amps and back to the relay board. None of this wiring other than the two I think/hope are +-10VDC have changed. There were no wires added or removed from the amp board or the servo. A couple of wires from the relay board to the old Anilam motion control board were removed however. This might be where my problem lies as well. The blue wire that is in series to all three amps goes to ground unless the relay is powered up and its normally closed contact is opened. The same 24VDC power that opens this contact also activates another relay which in turn sends the 115VAC to the bridge rectifier that feeds the amp. This 24VDC for the relay is where I was planning to use a eStop switch. When I supply power (115VAC) direct to the power supply (BR and capacitor) all three amp board’s error LED light up instantly. When I supply power to the power supply and disconnect the ground that normally faults the amps (blue wire) on the amp board by applying 24VDC to the relay board something weird happens. The output from the relay board which should be 115VAC as well as the DC into the amp board varies. It gets so far and “resets”. When nothing is connected the out from the activated relay board is 115VAC. When everything is connected the output is "reduced” to around 22VAC and then climbs to around 38.3VAC, ramping up fast at first and slowing down as it goes up. When it reaches 38.3 it resets back to 22 and starts all over again. It might go all the way to zero but it climbs real fast at first and the first readout on the meter I can read is 22VAC. It’s the same thing on the DC side of the power supply only with DC. At 38.3vDC I see the fault LED on the amp card flash then it resets back to 22 (again it might go all the way to zero) and climbs back up to 38.3VDC and resets again. Clearly, the fault is what is causing the reset. Don't know why or what to do yet. I also don't know if I have everything setup right in Mach3. It doesn’t seem to be putting out any kind of signal. On the wires that should be putting out +-10VDC. Another very possible reason may just be my operation of Mach3. I reset, hit the tab button bringing up the jog screen and hit the +X,Y,orZ. It should move 1.0”. Other buttons pressed after that say something like “can’t perform during move”. The Galil has firmware 1.0A. I did a master reset on it last night just to make sure the memory was clean. Has anybody reused Anilam amp boards and DC servos and made theirs work? How does one get the servos to “turn on”? “Move”? Is the output supposed to vary? Any suggestions would be great. I’ve run out of possible reasons.
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By any chance would PIN6 of the P3 connector on the PCB801 board be one of the wires that were removed?
Darek
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I find it much easier to get the drives working by using the Galil Terminal program to enter Galil commands in order to 'talk' to the drives directly, if you have the machine schematics, it should be possible to easily check the power circuits.
Nosmo.
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Darek,
The only pin I have connected on the P3 connector is the ground via a eStop switch. On the relay board closest the corner is P1 with 2 pins, the P7 with 3 pins then the P3 connector. I don't see any numbering on the card so the pin closest to the corner is what I'm calling pin 1. Does pin 6 do anything? I would have to test it but it looks like a ground wired there would "activate" the K4 relay. Is there another wire that needs to go back to the Galil?
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NosmoKing,
I don'y have the schematics. Do you happen to have the schematics to Anilam's 31500966 amp boards? There likely similar for diderent models so any model's schematic would probably help. Darek sent me the schematics for the relay board and JH (JHChoppers) sent me some of his notes on a conversion he did. On his notes his amps had pins 13 and 14 (J1 connector on anp boards) jumped together and mine are not.
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Darek,
If I connect a ground to pin6 of P3 then all of P8 connectors switch (3 NO connections become closed and three NC connection become open) as well as a pins 4 & 5 of P4 close. All pins on these connectors are currently not attached to anything.
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PIN 6 of the P3 connector turns on the K4 relay which has as contact in the E-Stop loop. It was used to keep the drives from enabling untill the control was ready, it would also kill the drives if the control detected a problem.
Darek
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Darek,
Whatever was connected between P8 (and/or P4) and the old motion control must still be needed. The Galil must need some kind of a "it's ready" signal. That's easy enough to arrange but to what pin on the Galil and what is the signal (Ground, 3.3,5, 12, 24VDC, or connect two pins)? At least know I have something to look for. Looks like its time to read the manuals. Thanks for the help.
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Rereading your post, if your are grounding PIN 1 of P3 that should turn on the servo DC high voltage.
Darek
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Darek,
originally from you:
Amplifier J1 ( Motor Control )
1 NC
2 RED ( * Axis Signal +/- 10 Volt DC [ From DSP Board ] )
3 WHITE ( ? Tach FeedBack [ To Motor & Encoder Harness ] )
4 GREEN ( ? Tach FeedBack [ To Motor & Encoder Harness ] )
5 NC
6 BLUE ( * Servo Output Enable [ From eStop Relay Control Board ] )
7 NC
8 NC
9 NC
10 NC
11 BLACK ( * Axis Common, Signal/Analog Ground [ From DSP Board ] )
13 JUMPER ( * Connect to PIN 14 )
14 JUMPER ( * Connect to PIN 13 )
It also removes the ground from from the amp's J1 pin 6 Blue and leaves the blue wire just floating. I have nothing connected to the Galil's AENx (amp enable x=-A,B,or C). I don't understand what it is. Is it a signal passed from the Galil, or to it. From or to what is the other end attached to?
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I hope the other end is attached to just any nonspecific signal (ground, 3.3, 5, 12, or 24vdc). It can't hardly be from or to the amp though. The old Anilam system turned on and moved the servos. All the wires that went to or from the amps and servos have not been changed, except #2 and #11 of Amp's J1 connection now goes to the Galil.
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AEN is dedicated outputs from Galil, one for each axis, these are intended to be drive inhibits or enables.
These are activated if a MO command or a watchdog timer activates due to Galil hardware error.
Nosmo.
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NosoKing,
Well, I'm at a loss, I just don't understand. These amps didn't have anything else going to them wirewise before for an enable and the inhibit (blue wire to ground) is already floating. I may need to buy different amps.
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Isn't JI term 6 exactly that? It is very unusual for amps of these vintage not to have a enable input.
Depending on the nature of T6 input, if using the signal from the Galil to disable the drives, it may need some conditioning, i.e. Opto or relay etc.
N.
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When power (115VAC) is applied to the Power Supply and the inhibit is removed/floating (J1 term 6) to the Amp boards should the motors turn on with just that? Not move mind you, just turn on and lock the axis's or is there something else that needs to get sent from the Galil/Mach3?
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Generally when drives that have tach feedback are powered and enabled they should 'cage' the motor and resist turning, regardless of the state that Galil is in, the only time they normally drift is if using modern drives in the torque mode with the tach not used and a MO (motors off) is issued to Galil and the AEN enable is not used to shut the drives off.
Nosmo.
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NosmoKing,
My servos aren't "caging".
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Time to do a battery input test to the amps, see attachment. I have used my meter in low ohms or diode check in a pinch.
Darek
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I too was just about to mention the battery box, feed it into the command (analogue input), this should confirm whether the drives are enabled or not?
N.
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Just a 9v battery and see if it moves right? Would a D-cell 1.5v work also. Do I need the variable resistor and if so what size?
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It should move sufficiently with a 1.5v batt, just connect it directly across the analogue input, you do not necessarily need the pot unless you are using 9v etc.
Don't use a 9v directly otherwise they will take off at full rpm.
The pot can be 5k~10K, preferably linear style, not logarithmic track.
Nosmo.
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I'll give it a try tonight after work.
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A battery to the amps did nothing. I think I'll order an integrated amp from Galil and make this simple. Galil's Amp 43240 (-D3240) looks like it'll work. Please let me know if you have reason to think otherwise or if you think the Anilam amps might still be a viable course.
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It sounds like the drives are not enabled? Usually all you need is amp power and the enable?
It is odd all axis would be the same?
Although listed as BLDC it appears the amps will also run brushed DC also, many BLDC will do this when set to 60° commutation.
If you have analogue control, any suitable brushed or brushless Advanced Motion drive will suit, and they can be had plentiful usually on ebay.
N.