Machsupport Forum
Mach Discussion => General Mach Discussion => Topic started by: Craig1 on May 08, 2011, 02:35:02 AM
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I am planing on using the simple PCB board style setter. How do you physically wire the input? I have a Sherline controler which has tamper seals. Do i have to wire through box or can it be wired anothe way?
If you know of another post that i should i would appriciate it.
Thanks you.
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It needs to go into Mach via your parallel port so really you need to go into your box to connect. You could break into the parallel port cable and wire direct but that would not really be recommended unless you knew what you were doing. Best bet would be to email Sherline and ask how you could get round the issue without voiding the warranty as I assume that is what your dilemma is?
Hood
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or you could make yourself a breakout box between the controller and the PC. A couple of IDCs and a short piece of ribbon should do the trick.
Ian
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That is the concern i have. Thanks
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I think i have found a solution. I did contact Sherline. They said as long as my mod didn't cause the problem i was fine. I did find photos of the the box insides. It did not look like an easy hook up. Rather tight for open spots to solder to. After a long exhaustive internet search i found this. Mainly so long because i didn't know what it was called. Its a printer jumper box. I'm going to buy male female ended. Wiring for normal use and splice in here for tool setter ect. Hope my soldering skills are up to the challenge. Sells for about 10 bucks through amazon. Hope this helps those worried about their warranties.
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Goodness - who'd have thought of that - brilliant ;D
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I work for Ford Motor Company and deal with warranties daily. It's best not to void them when when you can!!! I'll update on progress as i go.
Thanks
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I'm off for a lay down in a darkened room for a while...
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I went to the local radio shack and found not exactly what i was looking for but close enough. Its ugly but it work. I think i'll unsolder one side and go back and put on heat shrink. I'll also put it in a project box. Then but the well made jumper box as aposed to my home made junk box ;D.
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Craig,
I know those DB25s are difficult to solder but definitely go back and put sleeving over those solder joints before you do anything else.
(It could take just one whisker from any of those wires to short to an adjacent terminal and if luck was not on your side disaster could strike).
Tweakie.
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I agree
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The 10K resistor goes from where to where? I have done some searching with no luck
Thank you
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well i answered my own question after contining to search. The resistor goes between the plate and pin # 10. I have configured that as an input. Now where do i pull the +5 volts from?
I referenced this post for picking pin #10. http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,12742.0.html
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The resistor is used to pull-up the voltage on the the plate to +5 so the resistor goes between the plate (pin10 ?) and +5 volts. You could get the +5 from a spare USB socket if you have a USB lead you can cannibalise.
When the tool touches the plate it should then make the plate (pin 10?) zero volts.
Tweakie.
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Pin 10 is what i found the other post. I assume I can use any in put pin? Or is there a preferred pint to use? I'll scrounge up a USB to take power from.
Thanks
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Craig,
Any input pin# is OK.
Whichever you choose has to be configured to Probe in Ports and Pins.
Tweakie.
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testing prfile info
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Ok, I have moved on to actual functioning of the setter. I have used Tweakias seggested script from another post. It moves the Z axis no issues. Now i have also tested that the led would either come on or go off depending on its active state which it DID NOT. I hought possibly my circuits were not complete (soldered properly) or wires to long. I have checked with a multimeter and all seem well less one. I have no continuity on the plate wire after the 10k resistor(it may be too large). I did try jumping to pin 10 after the resistor no change.
As an experiment i jumped pin 10 to what i beleive is USB plug ground. Doing this the digitize LED came on or went off when jumped depending on active high or low.
I feel i'm right on the cusp of having the setter work properly just a set up issue at this point. Suggestions are much welcome.
Thanks you again
DoOemButton (1010)
Code "(Setting Tool Zero)"
While IsMoving ()
Wend
If GetOemLED (825) = 0 Then
Code "G90 G31 Z-3 F20" & ProbeFeed
While IsMoving ()
Wend
If GetOemLED (825) = True Then
End If
ProbePos = GetVar (2002)
Code "G0 Z" & ProbePos
While IsMoving ()
Wend
Call SetDRO (2, 0.125)
Code "G0 Z1"
While IsMoving ()
Wend
End If
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Hi Craig,
Sounds like you are almost there.
Your current problem seems to be with GND. The cutter should be at the same potential as your USB GND, that way when the cutter contacts the plate the digitize LED illuminates.
The resistor does not go in series with the plate. The resistor just connects your pin 10 to +5 volts, then the plate connects to pin 10 as well.
Hope this helps,
Tweakie.
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Does pint 10, +5 and have to wires in any particular configuration or just end end up together?
From what i could find per USB pinout Red is +5 and black is GND.
Well so much for going to bed. more work to do.
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Hope this makes sense.
Tweakie.
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Yes it does,
Cutting and re-solding as we speak.
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Al right,
The LED comes on when the clip and plate are touched (I believe it was supposed to be on then go off) . I tried using the code of yours yet it doesn't set the DRO. I believe in the script phase now. WOO HOO.
The schematic was great help.
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CORRECTION
The script is working. I wasn't watching the DRO close enough
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Great news Craig. Pleased you have it working. (the LED is usually off and only comes on when the plate is touched)
Tweakie.
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Can you direct to scripts for programing the X/Y + & - buttons. I'll do some searching in the mean time
Thanks again.