Machsupport Forum
General CNC Chat => Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) => Topic started by: Overloaded on March 25, 2009, 09:20:31 PM
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Hello All,
Well I finally picked up a mill to set up with AC servos and Mach.
I researched the model, YCM-12, but never found anything about it. So I figured...what the heck. The price was right so I bought it sight unseen...except for a couple of pics. From what I DID find on Supermax's, I assumed this one would have a 12 or 14" Y but lo and behold..it's 16" ! EXCELLENT ! There is 1 job that I now do manually that is 14.25" Y and would have required 2 set-ups but not now. :)
Spent all of last weekend stripping it down and laying on a fresh coat of paint. The head is a bit noisy. The motor bearings were bad so I changed them but there is still a bit of racket. Will change all of the bearings then paint the head as well.
Ball screws cleaned up well. The end block bearings for the X are a bit rough so they will be replaced too.
The mill must have been setting a while as the quill was stuck/frozen in what looked like gum or varnish. I got it freed up then found that the yoke that connects the Z ball nut to the quill is cracked. NO prob...just glad I caught it early on.
The ways are huge boxed type and are in great shape. Turcite on the Y too.
Will need a new lube pump...looks like a forklift nailed this one.
More to come.
RC
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Russ,
That thing looks Super , like in Super Max haha :D
Better then the first pic I seen , and 16" on the y. That's great, and a nice big electrical cabinet.
Ed
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Russ
That head appears to have a high-low range, probably some gear noise in the head. Is the low range the noisy one?
Ed
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Russ,
Now we know what you do in your spare time!
Wish you luck with it.
RICH
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Excellent, my friend, that is sure to be a lot of fun when done!
:)
Dave
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Thanks for the encouragement guys.
ED, most of the noise seemas to be in HI gear. It's pretty calm in back gear.
The key slot in the driven sheave shaft is hammered open a bit at the mid section of travel. The original key slot was 5/16" and is about .360 at the widest point now. When I take it apart again, I might mill the slot wide enough to clean it up and then make a custom key to fit.
Hope to work on it more this weekend.
Thanks again,
RC
OH...BTW. I'm looking for some Kwick Switch 200 Tool Holders. Seen some on eBay, still looking though.
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Nice looking project you got there. Nice shop, too. I wish my mig welder was about the size of yours. Is that a mig, tig, or stick?
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Hi Sam,
Shop is getting too small now.
Thats a dedicated MIG...does a great job.
I also have a Lincoln AC DC stick machine and a Miller Bobcat for remote work.
I need a good stick/TIG combo rig......working on that now.
Thanks,
RC
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Found the noisy culprit. There are 2 bearings under the sheave that is splined to the spindle. One of those is kaput.
All new bearings on the way.
Also milled the keyslot in the same sheave to .375", like Ed suggested, and made a step key...excellent now. Thanks Ed.
The sheaves in this head have the bronze bushings instead of plastic and are in great shape.
Just about done with the mechanical stuff, anxious to start on the electrical and controls.
I hope running it will be as enjoyable as putting it together LOL.
Thanks to ALL for your encouragement and support,
Russ
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Russ, where did you find your bearings? Do you have a manual that tells the type, or do you just match as best you can?
Vince
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Vince,
They are all standard metric bearings.
I got all but the spindle bearings from USA-Bearings-and-Belts.
The 7207 spindle bearings are from VXB.
Probably imports but I thought I'd give them a shot.
I've had pretty good luck with them so far.
Russ
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/USA-Bearings-and-Belts__W0QQ_armrsZ1
http://stores.ebay.com/VXB-Bearings-Skateboard-and-Slotcar
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Hello friends,
Well upon closer inspection, the Z (quill) ballscrew and nut are shot.
What would be the best route to take to get another ?
Send it to be repaired/replaced ? $ ? $ ?$ ?$ $?
Buy new screw and nut and machine the ends my self ?
Match something up close on eBay and hack it to fit ?
Got any leads on suppliers ?
3/4"-5 x 12", Single nut - 2 circuits.
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Russ,
If they are shot , they can't be repaired. They are just wore out. >:( Find a screw and nut thats close and machine the ends to your needs.
Ed
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Hi Ed,
That's what I figured, looking at eBay now.
Saw a repair place while Googlin' some time back. They said to send them the assy., they would evaluate it and repair or make a new one.
Would probably cost more than my shop lol.
I'll keep lookin', got a few weeks to look around.
Thanks Ed,
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RC, If you can do a print with dimensions, Rockford Ball Screw can fix you up with a brand new set of balls, screws and nuts if needed. ;D
Brett
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I will make an inquiry with them.....Thanks Brett
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RC
Looks like a nice sturdy mill, very similar to the Beaver from the neck down. Shame about the ballscrew but hopefully you can get one at a reasonable price.
Brett
Always wondered where you had gotten your balls from ;D
Hood
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Hood,
Yup...nice mill, puny head.
The "Z" screw is being a PITA.
The only ones Rockford has to fit are semi-precision rolled w/.005" to .015" backlash. There is no room for their preloaded double nut type.
Thomson has just what I need...$1020.00 plus end prep if I want it.
Nook will let me know tomorrow.
eBay.....not much right now and most is in Asia.
I'm contemplating going w/new oversize balls..(wife agrees ;D ), and just let it run a little rough for a while. $12 on eBay.
I'll keep looking though.
The cracked yoke is probably what caused the problem. It was cracked and hinging up and down causing a hell of a bind on the nut and screw.
Oh well.....not quite the price of a new mill in this one....YET ! lol
See ya,
RC
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RC,
Maching the ends of the ball screws can be a pain in the neck.Depends on how deep
the hardening is, so you got to get below it. To get there i had to grind the ball
thread off and on the ones i have done the hardening was into the thread. The carbide
cutters worked. I don't know the make ( bought them by $/lb ).
RICH
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Hey RICH,
That is a good point for sure. I ran into that before with Thomson screws I got from McMaster Carr.
What I did was anneal the ends, then they machined pretty well. It actually softened a few extra threads but the nut never went there so it was OK.
They were 3/4" and hard as........about .150" deep.
These were their sloppy rolled screws though, I wouldn't do that to a &1200 per foot set-up.
Thanks,
RC
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Hi All,
I plan to put a 15" LCD monitor in the existing control panel.
This will leave about a 2-1/2" space along the bottom for buttons.
I can leave the E-Stop and add whatever would be handy.
There is also room for several buttons/switches at the quill drive enclosure.
I was thinking of an E-Stop there as well.
I would like to have 1 MPG and axis selector. Would they go on the head or in the control panel ?
Question is: What external buttons/functions are typically used by you guys and where would you put them ?
The head went together very well. One of the sheave halves had been broken at some point and was poorly repaired. Other than that, it's almost as quiet as my 60 hour Bridgeport.
Thank you all,
RC 8)
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Here are the spaces I will have available.
btw...I ran out of gray, found some charcoal and a can of blue so that's what she got.
I KNEW i saved them partial cans for something. :)
Thanks again,
RC
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Russ.
I would put e-stop , mpg , and axis selection switchs on console below monitor,
An external mpg on a cord is handy such as Peter homann has, but is always out of stock. But there are others.
Really handy for setup when your nose is in the spindle. ;D Need a mod i/o board for switches.
Ed
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Good idea Ed.
If I go with the pendant type, I may not put an MPG in the console.
Might just put the holster in a convienient place instead.
Thanks,
Russ
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Russ ,
Also , a must , for your console is a feedrate over ride.
I would keep the panel on the head blank , polished Aluminum . :D
Your console is plenty close, eliminate the extra wiring.
Ed
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OK...
FRO, MPG w/Axis selector, ...... any others ?
Do you typically have a Cycle Start ?
That plate on the head is SS btw, but I suppose it WILL polish up. :)
Thanks Ed,
RC
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Russ,
The list is endless, but you don't have that much room. you could add a small section alongside your console for more buttons. cycle start, feed hold , stop., the buttons off your head. Have to make a new cover plate for the head. Yours will have holes in it .New alum plate polished. LOL. ;D Don't forget a small start button for the pc, along with reset, and hd led.
But , if you go with a good pendant , you'll have mpg , and axis switches right there. you wont need those on the console.
Ed
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Russ,
Just thought I would bump this thread. ;D
Updates needed here. :D BUMP , BUMP.
Ed
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zzzzzZZZZZzzzzzzzZZZZZzzzzz oh uhummm yes .. YES
Hi Ed,
Had to put er' on the back burner for just a couple more weeks.
Got the PC, PS, HDD, Servo drives and 24VDC I/O PS for the drives in the panel.
Also started making up the cables for the motors and drive I/O breakouts.
Z will be OK for a while but mounting for the new motor is a beech.
I'll get some pics when I get back to it.
RC
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Making a little headway.
Made adapter plates for the servo motors. They allow mounting the bigger AC servos to the original bolt patterns.....no modifications to the machine.
Also used the original belts and pulleys. 1.5:1 reduction...not ideal but I can live with it for now.
Got a lot of stuff mounted in the cabinet. I've been called many things, but ELECTRICIAN is not on the list. ::)
Bit by bit, it's coming together.
Wanting twin BoB's for the SS. Haven't decided which ones yet.
Back soon w/more pics.
RC :)
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Russ,
Thats lookin really good. Couldn't have done better myself.
Thanks Russ
Ed
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JUst a note on the switches on the spindle housing. When cutting at some speeds and feeds you will get a resonate vibration that CAN cause the switch contacts to vibrate and active or deactivate all by themselves.(;-)
Been there done that one, like to have drove me crazy till I figured it out
Great looking build,
Just a thought, (;-) TP
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RC are they eao switches, if so they are the dogs danglers :)
Hood
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Thanks for the tip TP, I can see that happening with my aggressive nature. >:D
Hood...what the hell is an "eao" switch. :(
The dog part...I think I got figured.
RC :)
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Its the make and yep knew you would have the other bit figured ;D
If they are eao you are not going to have problems with vibration, they are swiss made switches and are superb although not exactly cheap :)
Hood
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I haven't look closely at them. 1 is a toggle ON/OFF and the others are mom.
They are going to go anyway and be replaced with RSC mom. pushbuttons.
RSC (Radio Shack Chinese) lol
RC
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Well send them over to me if you are letting them go :) always knew you were saft in the heid in that part of the world but didnt realise how much ;D
Hood
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Please do not regard me as representative of this part of the world.
It would not be fair to the others. :)
RC
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Please do not regard me as representative of this part of the world.
It would not be fair to the others. :)
RC
Thats true but I also know Brett and surely its unlikely I just met the only two ;D
Hood
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Hood ,
now I feel left out. ;D
Ed
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Ed when I mentioned Brett it goes without saying that the rest of the family are included ;D
Hood
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Thanks Hood ,
Now I feel better. ;)
Ed
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RC,
Did you run the Electro-Craft drives with Mach3 yet?
Dennis