Machsupport Forum
General CNC Chat => Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) => Topic started by: DICKEYBIRD on August 21, 2012, 01:16:10 PM
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Been working on a Denford ORAC retrofit for much longer than I’m willing to admit but it’s getting close enough that I figured I’d stick m’toe in the water and join the fun.
I bought it from a fellow in Detroit and had it shipped by truck to me here in west Tennessee, USA. I work for the local Jaguar-Land Rover dealer so am experienced with British engineering.:D
It was purchased with nothing other than the bare lathe and the stripped clean base unit. I also have a Denford Micromill converted to Mach control and had bought a spare SmartStep/3 controller for it so that’s the controller I chose to use for the ORAC. Meager budget & all y’know.
The ORAC base unit had no structure underneath the lathe other than the sheet metal top and I felt it would flex so I added some crosswise angle iron braces with vertical brackets to tie the top more rigidly to the bottom which has lengthwise stiff channels. It all seems very rigid now.
I added a couple Home Depot drawer slides and a piece of aluminum plate to use as a pull-out equipment tray as I knew I’d be putzing around with electronics a lot and needed good access to it all. The big aluminum plate serves as a dandy heat sink as well. The original front panel was missing so I cobbled up one from a piece of heavy gauge metal shelving hinged with a piece of B727 access panel hinge that was given to me.
The missing original motor was ½ hp AC w/VFD but I got a brand new ¾ hp Baldor DC motor off eBay cheap.. It was way too big to go in the original location and had to be mounted on the “back porch” and a hole cut in the back panel for the belt. The KBIC-120 SCR speed control & motor made such a loud buzzing noise I had to mount the motor on rubber isolators I got from a parted-out treadmill. It’s whisper quiet now.
I made some aluminum adaptors to fit a pair of NEMA 23 steppers that a kind forum member here gave me and made the X-axis cable sheath from the braided stainless steel covering off an old washing machine hose I’ve saved for years. Must have some Scottish blood in me, eh Hood?
The last pic is the adjustable ER32 collet chuck I rigged up. I added 4 brass tipped screws to allow precise adjustments of the chuck before the flange nuts are fully tightened. The chuck flange I.D. is a little bigger than the EMCO spindle snout to allow enough movement to exactly dial in collets if their runout is excessive or when working with existing parts that have features that aren’t concentric. I’m real happy with the way it works.
Next up is a twin QCTP plate to be added to the carriage and then learning tool offsets & the like. Not looking forward to that.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/ORAC1.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/DriveEnd.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/RtBrace.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/MotorMount2.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/Electrics4.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/PanelOpen.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/PanelClosed.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/CableSheath.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/CableSheathEnd.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/AdjChuck-1.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/AdjChuckParts.jpg)
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Looks good. The electronics on runners is a nice touch.
Must have some Scottish blood in me, eh Hood?
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I added 4 brass tipped screws
You've got a lot to learn. You could acheive the same thing with 3 screws and saved some brass and a screw ;)
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Looks good. The electronics on runners is a nice touch.
Must have some Scottish blood in me, eh Hood?
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I added 4 brass tipped screws
You've got a lot to learn. You could acheive the same thing with 3 screws and saved some brass and a screw ;)
Now THAT'S funny!:)
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Looks good! Offsets and programming should be easier than what you've done so far :)
Dan
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Looks good! Offsets and programming should be easier than what you've done so far :)
Dan
Thanks Dan, I hope you're right. I get by OK with stuff I can hold in my hand and beat the heck out of until it fits but software gives me the willies. Hammers don't mean a thing to software.:)
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Made a bit more forward progress on the little ORAC. Made up a 5/8 x 4 x 11" add-on tool holder plate so a 2nd QCTP can be mounted on t'back side. Drilled/tapped 3 holes to allow some flexibility in where to mount the QCTP stud. The 3 little button head screws give access to oil the ballscrew and the slides, added a couple sheet metal covers to keep the swarf out of the moving bits. The little 6mm tee-bolts are are hard to find for the C8 carriage slots but I found that ZF wide head auto transmission pan screws (had a sackful of lightly used ones on hand) are a perfect fit with a bit milled off each side. That should quiet my Scottish ancestors. ;D
Made up a replacement end plate to fit the missing one on the original ORAC belt cover. Also made a tommy bar and extended spanner wrench to tighten the cr@p out of the ER32 collet nut. Spanner extension is just a length of electrical conduit smashed flat on one end & hammered down onto the wrench with a rivet made from a soft nail to secure it.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/ToolPlate2_zps17e806e3.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/ToolPlate_zps80ea6113.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/ToolPlateTeeBolts_zps6c3bbfa0.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/BeltCover_zps06e698e6.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/ERChuckTools_zps1cc24d67.jpg)
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Hi Guys
Didn't know there were so many Orac owners here on the mach site i have 2 of the Denford Orac lathes one has been in operation under mach for about 4 yrs now the other is setting waiting for what i don't know one day i will get around to it, basically i took all the original electronics out and installed a 4PNC break out board and gecko drives works like a champ i like the collect closer really nice work.
Dennis
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Thanks Dennis, glad to hear from a fellow ORAC owner! A good little machine methinks. :) Haven't done much real work with mine yet but it's getting there.
What kind of tool holder setup do you have? QCTP or gang or?? Got any pics or a link to a thread?
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A little update on the ORAC project. I wanted X-axis homing to be as accurate and repeatable as possible so I installed a N.O. microswitch on the X slide which closes near the end of travel and sends the signal on to the B.O.B when the disc mounted on the stepper shaft closes the opto. The opto sensor/boards came from the Netherlands off ebay for $7.95 each, free shipping! I made a pair of plastic mount blocks and the sensors are held in place by a couple drops of superglue.
After a few iterations of microswitch adjustments, the X homing is dead accurate and repeatable. I can see no variance whatsoever in a DTI attached to the side over many, many homing moves.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/XOpto.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/XOptoMount.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/XHomeDisc.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/XOptoSetup.jpg)
The maintenance guy at work gave me a neat little aluminum weatherproof box so I mounted it to the X slide for a place to put the wiring connections and mount the Z opto sensor board. I made an adjustable Z axis stop rod holder which allows easy changes of the Z home position. I didn’t want it permanently mounted at the far end of Z travel to prevent a long wait for the carriage to run all the way to the end then back to the work position each time it homes. It can easily be reset if a job comes along with long stock.
Oh yeah, another feature is the black nylon screw holding the stop rod in place. Being the realist that I am, I figure if it over-travels for some reason, the screw will allow the rod to slip and hopefully won’t punch a hole the box before I hit the esc key.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/ZOptoBox1.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/ZOptoBox2.jpg)
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ORAC update:
I decided to add spindle reversing. Initially got it working OK controlled from Mach with a big DPDT relay switched by one of the small relays on the B.O.B. After advice from others, I got really worried about screwing up the G-code and frying my KB speed control by reversing directions with the spindle still spinning down so I ditched that plan.
A knowledgeable friend recommended another type of KB controller that (safely) does the reversing with onboard circuitry so off to ebay I went. I got lucky & found a N.I.B. KBCC-125R for $65.00 + shipping and pounced on it. It has a more modern controller, an APRM-3 reversing module and a big dynamic braking resistor all mounted on a huge heat sink. A very serious piece of kit!
It was way too big to fit in the enclosure so I picked up a 4x8x12” electrical box from H.D. to put it in and mounted it on the back side. I followed KB’s recommendations & routed the control wiring in a separate conduit kept well away from mains power & the motor leads. I also added a small 12vdc fan on the bottom with vent holes at the top to allow airflow across the heatsink fins & the resistor. I will add some screening on the vent holes as soon as I get my hands on some.
It works GREAT. It smoothly & quickly comes to a stop from full speed, switches direction and spins right back up to speed, no muss, no fuss. After adjustments, the speed tracks the commands from Mach within 5 to 30 rpm from 150 to 1600 rpm in both directions. The 30 rpm variance is in reverse. I guess the motor timing isn’t perfectly symmetrical but hey, it’s closer than I’ll ever need!
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/KBCCBox2_zpsba24bbb2.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/KBCCBox1_zpse522dc0b.jpg)
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I’m using an ER16 5/8” straight shank collet chuck in a QC boring bar holder to hold drills in my ORAC. Trying to align it properly in all 3 axes was a fiddly nightmare. Here’s what I came up with that works well.
I turned 2, 7075 aluminum discs with steel shafts to fit a collet in the spindle and the boring bar holder. The discs were made with a tight press fit on the shafts and I finish turned them once pressed together and dialed in. It out worked real well and a little juggling with a feeler gauge and a parallel had it in very good alignment and drilling spot on.
Once it was aligned properly, I locked the adjustment down on the toolholder and added its location to Mach3’s tool table.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/DrillAlign1_zpsbcc97675.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/DrillAlign2_zps5d900e76.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/DrillTest_zps2288a00b.jpg)
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Neat idea.
However, why not just use one disc in the QCTP, then mount a Dial guage in the collet chuck?
You'll probably need a mirror to read the dial in some positions, but I'd personally do that than have to play with feeler gauges.
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Neat idea.
However, why not just use one disc in the QCTP, then mount a Dial guage in the collet chuck?
Dohh! Thanks MC, that makes perfect sense. That's why I spend so much time here: to further my edumacation!:)
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Time for an update on the ORAC
Added a tach–generator to input a feedback signal into the KB speed control to stabilize the spindle speed for better threading. KB says 1% variation over its 50:1 speed range using tach feedback and the results were great. Picked up a used 7V/1000 rpm Servo-Tek tach for peanuts on ebay and cobbled together the nec stuff to mount & drive it off the back end of the Baldor.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/TachFini1_zpsb36e936f.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/TachFini1_zpsb36e936f.jpg.html)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/TachCoupler_zps919afc31.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/TachCoupler_zps919afc31.jpg.html)
The coupler is just a bit of soft rubber tubing with a couple o-rings slid on to make sure it doesn’t slip.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/TachAdapter1_zpsff95940f.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/TachAdapter1_zpsff95940f.jpg.html)
The KB instructions cautioned that correct polarity must be observed and if spindle reversing is used, the tach input signal polarity must be reversed along with spindle motor reversal. I made up a couple relay boards to do that and to switch power to the 12V cutting oil pump motor. The DPDT polarity reversing relay is in series with the tach output triggered by a 5V relay hooked to the B.O.B. and pulled in only upon M4 command.
One board mounts inside the base enclosure and (a) sends a 12V signal to the DPDT relay on the other board in the speed control enclosure and (b) switches power on & off to the cutting oil pump. The bigger pump relay in the pic was snagged off an A/C control board they were throwing out at work. I love making stuff using free parts!
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/RelayBoardsFront_zps0cda8bb5.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/RelayBoardsFront_zps0cda8bb5.jpg.html)
There was a reverse polarity spike when braking to a stop after a reverse command so I stuck in a couple diodes after the DPDT relay. That stopped the funny noise from the KB when stopping after running the spindle in reverse.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/RelayBoardTachReverse_zps26ec4c54.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/RelayBoardTachReverse_zps26ec4c54.jpg.html)
Here’s the cutting oil pump I rigged up using a 12V auto sunroof blind motor (another freebie from work) and a Suzuki 125cc 2-stroke oil injection pump. I tried a 250cc pump but it put out too much oil. The rate is easily adjustable using the rotary valve control that used to be connected to the throttle but I found that all the way back to the idle position gives the steady drip – drip – drip I was looking for. Plenty good for keeping the work & the tool wet but no so much that it makes a huge mess.
The 250 pump has 2 outlets & I may make another motor drive & relay control for it later to lube the ways & ballscrews. The ORAC relies on the operator oiling it frequently so automatic oiling would be great.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/PumpMounted_zpsa0bb1982.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/PumpMounted_zpsa0bb1982.jpg.html)
Finished installation pic. The reservoir is a plastic1 pint brake fluid bottle. No need for a huge tank with the slow drip-drip-drip feed.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/OilerPump-Reservoir_zps47a95efa.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/OilerPump-Reservoir_zps47a95efa.jpg.html)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/OilerNozzle_zpse67dde28.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/OilerNozzle_zpse67dde28.jpg.html)
I used Tygon tubing off ebay to plumb it as the stuff is very resistant to most oils and is pretty cheap. The flexible plastic nozzle is an aeresol brake cleaner straw and I used a mini DTI stand to position it. Quick & easy to get the nozzle right where it’s needed.
I’m real happy with how well the oiling system works. It starts dripping immediately on command and also stops instantly with maybe one solitary drip after it’s turned off. I’m not planning a major rebuild to add an enclosure to support flood coolant so this method’s here to stay.
I did my 1st threading over the weekend and it came out pretty well considering the cheap-o brazed carbide tool I had on hand. I’ll get some decent inserts & a holder one of these days and should get even better results. The test was on a piece of crappy hardware store cold-rolled steel and I chose 16mm x 1.5, the only size die I had on hand close to the 5/8” stock to check the thread with.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/ThreadTest_zps301aa278.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/ThreadTest_zps301aa278.jpg.html)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/ThreadFin_zps611956f9.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/ThreadFin_zps611956f9.jpg.html)
The 300 rpm spindle speed held very steady through the whole process but my puny little stepper & control were overworked at .002” D.O.C. The die screwed on & fit snugly but the threads were ragged & looked like a few steps got lost in the struggle. The next try at .001” D.O.C. was much better.
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Looking good :)
Good idea with the two stroke pump, may have to do something like that on the wee conect.
Hood
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Thanks Hood; my wife says I have a good idea occasionally. ;D
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We all have good ideas now and then but for your wife to admit that I reckon you must have more than most ;D
Hood
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After further review, I added a manual cutting oil flow control knob to the oil dispenser. I’ve been making a few parts with the ORAC lately and found that different cuts wanted more or less oil. I could change the flow rate during the cut but had to walk around behind the machine & tweak the pump control arm. Not cool!
Never ignoring a chance to use stuff in my junk drawers to rig up a Rube Goldberg (Heath Robinson for my English brethren) contraption, here’s what I came up with. The bellcrank & connector widgets were from my R/C model airplane drawers. The rack & pinion remote cable was given to me back in the 80’s. Dunno what it was made for but it works smooth as silk and was perfect for the job. Anybody else got packrat disease as bad as me?
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/OilerLinkage_zpse6b22206.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/OilerLinkage_zpse6b22206.jpg.html)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/OilerLinkKnobDrive_zpsf2df3707.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/OilerLinkKnobDrive_zpsf2df3707.jpg.html)
I’ve been messing around with my Denford MicroMill (runs on Mach3 & W2000) and made a little label plate to go under the knob. The little thing does a pretty decent job! Funny, even after a lifetime of adjusting carburetor needles & turning water faucets CCW to increase the flow, my automatic instinct to increase the oil flow was to turn the knob CW like a volume control. Brain defect I guess. That’s why the wacky linkage was used. Sidenote: Pi$$ed me off when I used acetone to clean the ORAC graphic before sticking the label on & found out Denford screen printed the clear film on the outside!
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/OilerLabel_zps39bc6559.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/OilerLabel_zps39bc6559.jpg.html)
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Made a gang toolholder for the ORAC. I whittled the AXA dovetail out of a stick of CRS and added a bracket at the far end to lock it in solid. After drilling the 3, 23/32” holes on the mill, I bored them to final size in-situ with a ¾” endmill chucked in the spindle.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/GangBoring_zps7b95711c.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/GangBoring_zps7b95711c.jpg.html)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/GangBrkt_zps95cc6d95.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/GangBrkt_zps95cc6d95.jpg.html)
I made up some ¾” straight shank ER16 chucks from 1144 steel. The shanks and 8 degree tapers came out perfect using Mach wizards but cutting the 22 x 1.5mm threads failed miserably. Not Mach’s fault though. I just need to build a 3 or 4:1 reduction system to increase the torque at low spindle speeds for threading jobs in steel. Most of the passes were perfect but the deeper cuts at the end got things out of synch and snapped an insert. I switched over to my manual lathe and got them done using a HSS tool & hand-cranking the spindle.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/GangER16Taper_zpsb7f8aae5.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/GangER16Taper_zpsb7f8aae5.jpg.html)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/GangER16_zpsd48f8269.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/GangER16_zpsd48f8269.jpg.html)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/GangFin_zpsf57bcfe0.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/GangFin_zpsf57bcfe0.jpg.html)
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More ORAC updates if anyone's looking:
Recently finished a speed reduction belt drive system to give it more grunt & speed stability for threading in steel. It’s getting a bit busy out t’back porch of the machine these days! It can be switched back & forth between direct & reduction drive in about 10-15 min. More time than I’d like to spend but a lot cheaper than a bigger motor & wiring upgrade. The whole thing was done with stuff I had on hand other than the 2 belts and a couple cheap ebay bearings for the countershaft.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/PulleyFin_zpseb9e5869.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/PulleyFin_zpseb9e5869.jpg.html)
The big pulley is the cast iron flywheel from SWMBO’s dead treadmill with a V-groove cut in the OD to fit a Gates 7M Polyflex belt. Didn’t have much room so I chose the small belt and made my own QD style taper locking pulley to fit in the small space behind the direct drive pulley.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/PulleyFin2_zpsdfe7b00e.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/PulleyFin2_zpsdfe7b00e.jpg.html)
Making the pulley is a story in itself but it works great and runs very true. Once the screws are torqued down, I’ll bet the thing would stay on with the screws removed!
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/PulleyParts_zps72047046.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/PulleyParts_zps72047046.jpg.html)
I keep coming up with British parts from the junkbox to go on this thing which should make its Yorkshire builders happy; if anything can make a Yorkshireman happy, that is.:D The idler pulleys came from a long ago Landie Disco recall & the eccentric adjuster came from an MGB hang-on A/C kit from 1972. I installed all the A/C’s for the local BL dealer here in the steamy south way back in the day and an extra one came in the box . It’s been lying in the toolbox bottom drawer for 41 yrs. just waiting to be used.
The 2 tensioners allow the reduction belt to be put on & off without disturbing the fiddly alignment of the countershaft pulley bracket assy. and maximizes belt wrap to (hopefully) prevent slippage. That tiny little pulley worried me but the 10-groove belt & good tensioning seems to prevent any slipping.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/PulleyTensioner_zps789dc236.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/PulleyTensioner_zps789dc236.jpg.html)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/PulleyIdler_zps5c2b117f.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/PulleyIdler_zps5c2b117f.jpg.html)
The drive motor is mounted on 4 rubber isolators and I had to cobble up this little adjustable rubber tipped widget to keep the 7M belt tight. The tube nut came from an MGB valve cover.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/PulleyFin3_zps31cb495e.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/DBAviation/media/PulleyFin3_zps31cb495e.jpg.html)
The thing works great and so far has allowed good threading in steel but I’m still playing with G76 settings trying to get my head around it. With the motor at full chat (1850 rpm) the spindle runs 398 rpm. That’s still a little higher than I’d like but slowing it down to 250 with the KB drive doesn’t seem to bother it. If I don’t get any slipping at the little pulley after using it a while, I may make a smaller motor pulley to get the final speed down to 200-250.
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Very Nice! That's using your head. :) I like all of it. The speed reducer, oilier adjustment, gang tool holder, collet holders, taper lock pulley. It's all nice.
Brett
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Thanks Brett, I appreciate the kind words! I know the thing will never be "finished" but it's finally becoming a very useful tool.
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Nice build, good pictures thanks for shearing.
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Hi jr, thanks for noticing. :)
I scanned back over the thread and it brought back a lot of memories. Hard to believe I started working on the thing almost 3 years ago. Never dreamed it'd take that long and that it wouldn't be really "finished" by now. Probably never will be though. I learn new stuff every day. If I was starting over, I would do a MUCH better job of marking the wiring & drawing up schematics. One lives & learns hopefully. ::)
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I'm in the same boat, after probably 3 years I have finally got around to revisiting my lathe, heres how I explain it:
Does a football player have to play in the NFL to be "finished" with his chosen interest? the obvious answer is no, a football player can "enjoy" playing at any level they wish, they do not ever need to "finish" to have football as a valid pursuit.
I enjoy working on my "stuff", it is my pursuit, I don't ever need to finish enjoying it to validate it, it is valid because I enjoy it.
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Here is what i'm thinking we need next:
(http://i1144.photobucket.com/albums/o482/jrslick22/block%20for%20turret_zpsdxkkvgkm.jpg) (http://s1144.photobucket.com/user/jrslick22/media/block%20for%20turret_zpsdxkkvgkm.jpg.html)
And just in case you cant guess what this is:
(http://i1144.photobucket.com/albums/o482/jrslick22/turret%20render_zpsvnrh30tx.jpg) (http://s1144.photobucket.com/user/jrslick22/media/turret%20render_zpsvnrh30tx.jpg.html)
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How about a mini small manual rotary tool indexer which would fit the quick change holder?
Start with parts from a rachet thumb for 1/4/3/8 or 1/2" sockets........only a couple of bucks.....the gears can take
a whole lot of abuse!
Just a thought, haven't got around to making one yet.
Maybe add a little wee stepper directly to it.
Vivid cheap imagination always in play. :D
RICH
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Um, what's a ratchet thumb please?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Um, what's a ratchet thumb please?
Poor wording on my part....one of these things. :D
RICH
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Aha! Thanks Rich. I still can't imagine how you use that in a tool indexer...
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I still can't imagine how you use that in a tool indexer
It provides a small strong ratchet gear for the guts of a homemade manual tool indexer.
Mounted / fix to a block ( one that could be used in a quick change and connect to the tool holder on the other side. ;)
See lower pic in reply #25.
RICH