Messages

81

General Mach Discussion / Re: Best simple CAD/CAM software

« on: November 15, 2013, 10:32:59 AM »

Cheers Jeff, I have just looked at your demo video and the system seems ideal. The only problem is I'm not sure my brain is up to it, I will download the trial and give it a go. Does the full version come on a disk or downloaded off your site, if the latter can I copy it to a disk or pen drive to put down in my workshop as I don't have an internet connection down there. Jim

82

General Mach Discussion / Re: Best simple CAD/CAM software

« on: November 14, 2013, 04:51:51 PM »

Hi Hood been a long time since I used CAD CAM software if I remember it was 2 1/2 D Denford own CAD is that what I want to do my loco parts?

83

General Mach Discussion / Best simple CAD/CAM software

« on: November 14, 2013, 03:28:40 PM »

Christmas is coming and my sons are asking the question, what do you want for Christmas Dad. Well I'm asking the forum what's the best CAD/CAM software to link to Mach for 3D milling on a small Denford Triac CNC milling machine making 5" gauge model steam train parts. Don't want the CAD/CAM to be to complicated as my brain has its limitations. Keep it simple please and don't want to spend a fortune just to be able to do small 3D parts in brass and steel.
Thanks in advance. Jim

84

General Mach Discussion / Re: CAN ANYONE HELP WITH DENFORD TRIAC MACH 3 CONVERSION SOUTHERN ENGLAND?

« on: November 08, 2013, 03:44:31 PM »

Hi Jens, sorry mate I got rid of it on Ebay. It was a nightmare when it was on the manual machine before I converted it. It was driven by pneumatics, 3 pistons and two large boxes of electronics and also had to have the spindle stop in the exact rotational position within 1 degree  for the BT35 holders driving dogs to engage in the spindle and tool changer to work. Add to that when the spindle got warm the pneumatics were not powerful enough at 100psi to release the spindle taper, had to tap it with a copper hammer to release it.  If you have BT35 holders you defiantly need to stop the spindle in the exact position, once you have done this the best way is to utilise a 4 axis steeper driven rotary unit with 6 tool holder slots, so cutting out the need for extra electronics. (PS the draw bar was also activated with pneumatic pressure) I now use a pneumatic push button and a dwell in the program to change tools, somewhat defeats the idea of CNC, but I'm a retired engineering hobbyist so time is not a factor.
Jim

85

General Mach Discussion / Re: CAN ANYONE HELP WITH DENFORD TRIAC MACH 3 CONVERSION SOUTHERN ENGLAND?

« on: October 03, 2013, 10:33:21 AM »

Hi Steve, I have converted, with a little help a 1988 Denford Triac mill some 5 years ago. I can give you advice, drawings and parts needed but don't want to travel because I spent 2 days fine tuning mine to get it all running OK. I'm no electronics expert in fact I'm thick as far as understanding anything I can't see moving, however its not that complicated if you have a multi-meter and some electrical connecting blocks you can do it!
PS I dumped my auto tool-changer as the Denford Pneumatics and electronics were not compatible with Mach and need a lot more electronics. The tool-changer tended to stick more times than it worked and you needed 100psi air pressure all the time your machine is running. I can do most of my hobbyist work with a 8mm end mill so tool change by hand.
Jim (Birmingham UK)

86

General Mach Discussion / Re: Not working after update

« on: September 14, 2013, 12:20:50 PM »

Have a look at  the first line of your program, if its got a g21 your program is in metric, if its g20 its imperial. If there isn't a G20 in put one in and see what happens. When I first loaded the latest update it did it in metric and all the programs I wrote were in metric although I thought I was doing them in Imperial. Just a thought. But be careful as I'm not sure what it will do to your feed rate!! Jim

87

General Mach Discussion / Re: Newbie: Mach3 won't register input switches or turn steppers

« on: September 14, 2013, 05:23:21 AM »

If all is not working have you set the step and dir port to 1, you need to do this for your inputs and outputs, they are on the right hand side of the ports and pin menus. Just had a second read of your post and you have set them so I suggest you wait for someone like Hood who will ask for you to send your xml set up file, they will then sort out you problem.

88

General Mach Discussion / Re: X axis will ONLY move in one direction

« on: September 12, 2013, 01:39:50 AM »

Does the same thing happen when you activate MPG option using the TAB key and then use the mouse on the direction icons? If the axis works in both direction using this option then its a hot key setting or your keyboard is that's the problem.  If the same error occurs then try assigning the pin setting you are using for the Y axis to the X axis. If the X axis then moves in both directions and the fault moves to the Y axis then its a wrong step pin or direction pin assignment or as Gerry says port voltage problems. Remember to make a note of the pin settings before you change them so you can put them back. Finally check the wiring from the BOB and stepper drives for loose connections. Try these first and reply to the forum with what happened giving members more information then they should be able to advise you further

89

General Mach Discussion / Re: Phantom Limit switch activation in the middle of a build.

« on: September 09, 2013, 05:11:45 AM »

Hi Scott, suspect you have some interference so you could try on the config tab (general config and on right hand side of the page) disabling the watch dog box and put a de-bounce figure of 2000 in. If that doesn't work reactivate the watchdog as its best to have them on. This will allow Mach to try and over-ride the interference. As far a the loss of settings when the system is triggered the motors and your axis display loose the synchronisation (motors travel a bit further or stop early compared to the readout) hence the offset when you try to recut with sometimes a devastating effect on the Z minus reading as your machine is probably an open loop machine. If you have a machine reference point onto micro switches or setting block and know the distance from them to you component datum you can reset you datum's accurately but with out a physical machine reference you will find the datum's are not accurate after an emergency stop. That's why companies have a machine reference and link it to a component datum point. So try and set yourself a reference point on the table so you can set your zero's after a crash.
I my previous posts you will see I have had the same problem, in my case it was a faulty capacitor on my ancient (1988) spindle drive card interfering with the 5v control system, although at first I thought it was a new overhead fluorescent light I had just fitted.
I made myself a flow chart to work down to try and eliminate the interference if you want it?
Hope this helps
 

90

General Mach Discussion / Re: Shifting zero, losing steps??

« on: September 07, 2013, 11:43:09 AM »

I had the same problem this morning after not using the machine for a week, indeed with an extra problem, the X plus axis followed by X minus but the machine went X plus on both occasions. I found the problem, my oiling system was empty so the slides were tight that caused the motors to struggle and miss steps. Topped up the oil and gave the slides a good soaking in thin oil and all works fine. Try this first. Jim