Approaching those stops slowly will likely help with accuracy, but go at them a bit too fast and that is where the discrepancies normally appear.
Mach has a slow down function when approaching a switch, which is nice.

I haven't setup any switches on mine other than Estop.
You would really have to have some accurate switches in order to set it up as precisely as the tool zero. I fire mine up in the morning and zero to the tool zero. By the end of the day, its still within tolerances for my parts. Not so sure that would be the case if I used home switches.

The tool table reflects my offset travel in each direction. It has the actual distance loaded in the tool tables from zero.
However, if you are at the tools offset and hit that tool number, it will show zero. A bit confusing, but it makes sense. Stay at your main tools zero and then pull up different tool numbers. You should see the offsets appear in the DRO's.

When you do your touch offs after the initial Zero tool, you must make sure that the tool you are now touching off is up and listed in the DRO.
Insure the proper tool number is there and do the touch off thing and Mach will automatically load that offset for you in the tool table.
Be sure to save the tool table when you close Mach.

Of course someone is interested. I just don't know where to get my hands on the files you want.

Something I use a lot in mill is Go To Zero.
I don't see that unless I am overlooking it, but it would be great to be able to do this. Sometimes it is confusing which axis should move first, so split axis zero buttons would be cool.

Thanks for the work so far. It looks good. I would tone the Gcode blue down some more. Change the font possibly. It just seems harder to read than it should.
Bright colors aren't so bad to me, but toned down would not be against my grain either.

Keep up the great progress.

I looked at Mach screen again and I think I will hold off for what you gys come up with.
I did consider using it for a mill screen or for my router, but I don't have a tool changer and change my tools with offsets manually. It works, so I didn't really need anything complicated there. Mach 3 OEM screens work great for me in both.
The lathe is a different beast. With gang or turret tools, you effectively have an auto tool changer and each tool has different offsets.
It begs to be run the proper way with all the bells and whistles available to make it work most efficiently I think.
Therefore, I would not attempt a lathe screen. Not even modify one now that I think about it. It would take some dedication to grasp that and I am glad to see you guys going through with it. I would gladly pay a bit to have a screen that does all I need and looks decent.
Oddly enough, I have found that does make a difference. Enough difference to afford a better one.

Aha. Sorry, Steve.
Thanks for the correction, Hood.
Lee

I have fiddled a bit with some wizards in mill, but not in turn. Not sure that I would even use them, but perhaps thats because I'm unfamiliar. It might be a good thing to learn for fast one off type turnings.
I have managed to do a partial screen before, but that leaves me in the ranks of beginner, so I won't try to offer help. Just happy to see a new solution coming about.

The blue screen isn't bad. I like the way it looks, but the screen switch is the real issue.
I understand why Art made them that way as well. Initially it was helpful to get started running a lathe with offsets, but now I want to take off the training wheels so to speak.
I'll keep watching with awe and anticipation.

A little late here, but I would like to switch screens less as well.
Using blue screen now. To unload and load code I have to revert a screen. I saw beside the cycle start that I can just go back a screen to do this, but it's not as easy as it should be.
I often run different bushings in the same day with the same parameters, so easier is better.
I was going to attempt a mod to the screen as well, but haven't been able to grasp much out of screen 4.
I am looking forward to this and will help when I can.
Thanks.