Machsupport Forum
Mach Discussion => Non English Forums => German => Topic started by: mroschk on August 10, 2018, 12:00:33 PM
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Hallo,
ich bin neu hier im Forum und auch noch relativ neu in Mach3, hab aber schon einiges gefräst.
Das Fräsen an sich funktioniert ganz gut, es hapert derzeit nur daran den Laser anzuschließen.
Also ich habe mir diesen Laser zugelegt:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Laser-Head-Engraving-Module-450nm-Blu-ray-with-TTL-Wood-Marking-Cutting-Tool-Neu/283082483598?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140131123730%26meid%3D83dec9b2c09c4fc1a360d77e56eba530%26pid%3D100167%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D132691000521%26itm%3D283082483598&_trksid=p5411.c100167.m2940 (https://www.ebay.de/itm/Laser-Head-Engraving-Module-450nm-Blu-ray-with-TTL-Wood-Marking-Cutting-Tool-Neu/283082483598?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140131123730%26meid%3D83dec9b2c09c4fc1a360d77e56eba530%26pid%3D100167%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D132691000521%26itm%3D283082483598&_trksid=p5411.c100167.m2940)
In meiner China Fräse ist diese Karte verbaut:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/New-CNC-Router-3-Axis-TB6560-3A-Stepper-Motor-Driver-Board-Mach-3/161560616128?hash=item259dc35cc0:g:~NIAAOSwOgdYrt~5 (https://www.ebay.de/itm/New-CNC-Router-3-Axis-TB6560-3A-Stepper-Motor-Driver-Board-Mach-3/161560616128?hash=item259dc35cc0:g:~NIAAOSwOgdYrt~5)
Ich habe an der JP-3163B Karte, an dem PWM Ausgang die Spannung gemessen. Genauer gesagt, von der Seite aus am 5. und 6. Pin. Siehe Bild im Anhang.
Nun habe ich Probleme mit dem Setup in Mach3, welche Pins ich einstellen muss, um den Laser zu betreiben?
Der müsste sich ja sozusagen während der Bearbeitung ein und ausschalten.
Das müsste dann noch im G-Code hinterlegt sein.
Da würden aber erst mal die richtigen Codes reichen.
Wichtig wäre erst mal, das sich die Spannung anpassen lässt. ( am PWM ausgang von der JP-3136B Karte ) da kommen immer etwas über 9V an.
EIn und aus geht schon, aber es müsste ich ja die Spannung auch ändern lassen oder sehe ich das falsch?
Ich wäre für jede Hilfe dankbar.
Matthias
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Things get lost in translation but your laser switching is by TTL Modulation and you need to check if this Input can handle 10 Volts (the Spindle output from your motor driver board is 0 Volts to 10 Volts PWM).
Tweakie.
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Hello,
thanks a lot.
I tried it in German because my english is not the best.
So, yes it can handle 0-10V.
The problem is, that i have reached a state i can turn on and off the Output 16 with commands
M3 or M4 for ON and M5 for OFF.
The problem is, that there are all the time displayed at least 10V ( 9.97 or something )
I am not able to control this Voltage .
That is the Problem.
I have tried different settings in Mach3, but without success. I think it is a settings Problem,
but i did not found it.
Matthias
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Hi Matt,
For simple On / Off control (M3 / M5) you could use the Spindle Relay output from your controller card. For improved control the M11P#/M10P# commands could be used.
The Spindle Speed output (0 to 10 Volts, PWM) from your controller will require both the M3 and S### commands. You need to check your Spindle setup in both Mach3 and your controller card to get the required S### command output voltages.
Tweakie.
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Hi,
i got it working now.
It was a combination of wrong settings in Mach3.
The Pin was wrong and the Pulleye settings also.
I can now set the spindle speed for laser intensitie.
But the M10/M11 is not working, but with the M3/4 and M5 it works fine now !
Thanks for the Help
Matthias
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Hi Matt,
The problem with the M3/M5 commands is that they are slow to operate and unwanted laser burn is often produced.
The command M11P1 will turn On Output #1 and the command M10P1 will turn Off Output#1 so this Output# has to be set to the Port & Pin number used to turn your laser On/Off. These commands are much faster and have been incorporated within Mach3 especially for laser use.
For the M11P#/M10P# commands to work correctly you also need to be using Mach3 version .056 or later.
Tweakie.
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Hi,
ahh, ok.
I continue trying to get the M10/M11 kommands running. I am sure it is just a wrong setting in Mach3.
The Problem now ( more important ) is the Setup to Laser my litle panels?
I must laser this:
A 1.8mm PlexiGlas 50% white translucent. This is spray colored Black.
On the Black side i must laser a Text.
I am struggeling which settings i have to use. There are so many Variables... Feed, Laser intensity, depth, laser only one time ore more ???
At the end i need something like that:
https://flightsimulatorparts.com/product-category/boeing-737-accessories/boeing-737-annunciators/ (https://flightsimulatorparts.com/product-category/boeing-737-accessories/boeing-737-annunciators/)
The little panel is onle around 18x23mm
Have you any expieriences for the correct settings?
Thanks
Matthias
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Hi Matt,
Are you Vector engraving this little panel or are you raster engraving it ?
Tweakie.
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Hi,
no , it i raster engraving.
I do all the Things ith Solidworks and Solidcam.
But if it is better to use any other program i can export a dfx from Solid* and use this in another program?
Matthias
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Hi Matthias,
The software you are currently using is probably best.
For Raster engraving I have been using the Mach3, Impact/Laser engraving plugin with excellent results but not all have had a similar degree of success. The latest version and my .pdf guide can be downloaded from here; http://tweakie.byethost10.com/Engraving.zip (due to my bandwidth issues the download may be slow).
Perhaps give it a try and see.
Tweakie.
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Hello,
thanks a lot for the Plugin, i will try it for sure.
But the main problem is no longer to get the Laser running, then it is now to
laser the 50% Milk PlexiGlas sprayed with black color.
So, i have the 1.8mm Plexi Glas witch is 50% ( around ) milky glas.
I sprayed a black color on it and try no to engrave letters only thru the black color. ( see attached picture )
The Problem, as you can see in the Picture, it is work in progress.
The lines are too small, so you can not see the white plexi during the day. If a light is behind the Plexi it looks very good.
But i need also to see the letters and the little lines , during the day without any backlight.
Have you any idea how i can reach this ??
Matthias
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Hi Matthias,
Sorry but I have not tried to do that so cannot give a definitive answer.
(It would appear that a laser with a wavelength that passes through acrylic (red ?) may ablate the paint layer without affecting the acrylic, assuming that the generated heat could be dissipated without melting the surface of the acrylic).
Tweakie.
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Hi Tweakie,
try it out if you can....not so easy as it seams ;-)
But you can be right, i dont know if it is possible , but you give me a idea with the Heat.
Maybe it is possible to cool the Plexiglar, maybe with Air or maybe Water ??
I will try that out...:-)
Thanks
Ps.. i have a blue laser
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Hi Matthias,
This was done quickly this morning with ‘rattle-can’ matt black, badly sprayed onto opal acrylic.
I used ‘air-assist’ to prevent the vapour from the paint colouring the acrylic – I used a very low power setting (to avoid cutting into the acrylic) and two passes (the second pass cleans-up any residual paint). I just used a standard typeface saved as a bitmap so it is a bit blocky – with properly prepared graphics and a bit of practice I think this could work well.
Tweakie.
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Good Morning,
i spray the Acryl the same, also with a rattle-can, but i did not have a air-assist.
But i think the biggest mistake i did is that i tried to burn the acryl too.
Next time i will set up the laser to only burn the color and give it a try, maybe it works better.
But another problem is that the announciators i build, are only 18x23 mm and the letters
are very small. Only 2.5mm hight in Solidworks.
I attached some pictures ...
Matthias
Ps.: What kind of laser did you use?
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Hi Matthias,
I am using a CO2 laser which will cut into the acrylic if the power level is set too high.
This test was done the same way as the previous example, using air-assist and two passes. I don't think the small letter size should be a problem.
Tweakie.
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Just a thought but if you send me one of your raster graphics (jpg or bmp preferred) I will try it here.
Tweakie.
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Hallo,
i Think then the Problem is the Blue Laser i have.
I am at work at the moment, but when i am back home i can send you the Solidworks file or the GCode. There
is no picture i use, i create that all in SW.
Matthias
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Hi Matthias,
i Think then the Problem is the Blue Laser i have.
That is a possibility but it could also be the type of paint, the laser power, the axis speed, etc., who knows. Everything involving lasers always seems to require practice (trial and error) to learn the correct technique.
I would not be able to use a Solidworks file but I could run your Gcode, if it is any help to you.
Tweakie.
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You can also send me your CNC file.
so i have the right Speed and must only try different laser power settings.
greets
Mathias
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Hi Matthias,
I am not sure this will help you because I am not using a Gcode file as such but these are my settings.
Tweakie.
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Hi,
Thanks a lot.
When i am back home i will try that and see what happens...
Mathias
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Hi,
i think really the Laser is the Problem.
Even if i takte a very low laser intensity, the color is burned, but
the letters looking black and not white, because the sprayed color is burned.
Hope you understand what i mean?
I dont know if it is possible to solve that without another laser.
I think it is the difference in the nm of the laser, my is at 450nm, but a Co2 is at a higher nm, i think over 1000nm.
Matthias
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I think you may be correct but I have never used a blue laser so I do not know for sure.
Each laser type (wavelength) certainly has it's own advantages and disadvantages.
Tweakie.