Machsupport Forum
General CNC Chat => Show"N"Tell ( Your Machines) => Topic started by: Peter Homann on September 16, 2006, 04:28:54 AM
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Many moons ago, 3 or 4 years back one of the members on the Master5 group (told you it was a while back) offered for sale a Yaskawa CNC Pendant. These appeared to be new and were offered at US$50.00. Not a bad buy for a US$3000.00 pendant. I'm not sure how many were on offer but I was lucky enough to snag one.
The Pendants contains;
- 100 ppr MPG
- 4 x 20 Character LCD
- 16 position Spindle Speed override switch
- 20 position Feed override switch
- Selector switch for 5 Axis
- +/- jog buttons for each axis
- The usual array of Keys for various CNC functions
- All key have integral LEDs to indicate status
The pendant contains a controller board to communicate with the CNC controller via a proprietary protocol. Not very Mach3 friendly. >:(
So, the plan was to replace the controller with a ModIO based one. Apart from making the pendant operational and useful. it will serve as a test bed for the development of the Homann Designs Pendants.
Below is a photo of the old and new ModIO pendant controller. As you can see the form factor is identical.
Below is a photo of the Pendant with the new ModIO controller inserted. I am very pleased with the fit. :)
The software is comming along quite well. It's heavily based on the ModIO functionality. I am having a problem with the Key matrix scanning module. Its picking up multiple columns on particular keypress. I'm starting to suspect it's a problem with the Pendant itself. Maybe it's the reason they were sold off cheaply. I need to break out the oscilloscope to track it down.
The pendant can communicate with Mach3 via Modbus, either RS232 or RS485. I'll most probably RS485 as I'll also be using a ModIO for my lathe toolchanger. As the Pendant runs off 24Vdc I'll need to make a purpose built breakout board. It will have a RS485 to RS232 converter on it.
If you look at the photo of the ModIO pendant controller, you'll notice that the board is Ver:1.0 and there are a few on board mods.
I know that there are others who also bought one of these pendants and if anyone is interested in upgrading their Yaskawa pendant with the ModIO Pendant controller, let me know. Sooner, than lather. ;)
I'll post more as the conversion continues.
Cheers,
Peter.
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I have one.
Regards,
Jeff :-)
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Hi Jeff,
For whaterver reason I had assumed you had one. Not sure why though. Anyway, once I get the project finished, I'll get a set of boards made for those that are interested.
Cheers,
Peter.
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Hi Peter,
Back then I got one of these pendants too. I've taken it out a couple of times to maybe salvage components from it but so far have left it intact while pursuing other things.
I'll be watching here for any progress you make making full use of the pendant a possibility.
Thanks much!
John (Bloy)...jmnotions
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Hi John,
Keep it intact for a little longer. I should have the board ready in a month or too. The controller should allow all the pendant functionality to be used.
Cheers,
Peter.
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Hi Peter,
I'm still here!. Was up on the roof tearing off TWO(2) layers of old shingles. ...and of course replacement.
...just checking in to see if you have had any time to further this project along. I was looking for something else, but found and pulled out the pendant again...
Happy Holidays! To you and to ALL in the threads I didn't post in ..YET!
John (Bloy)
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Hi John,
I'm still here too. ;)
I've been very busy lately, but still working on it. I'll report back in the new year.
I should have a few new goodies for release soon.
Have a great festive season as well.
Cheers,
Peter.
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Peter,
Did you ever finish the project with the Yaskawa pendant? I actually started down this path myself and got side tracked so many times it never happened. I had my design and had completely reverse engineered the original boards and built schematic and a virus wiped out my entire hard disk. That put the project way on the back burner. ha ha
Anyway I have followed the modbus discussion for years and was in the process of building another pendant when I ran across this very old posting.
Love how stuff on the forums lasts forever. :)
Russ
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Does anyone by any chance have one of the original Yaskawa pendants for this project as pictured above?? I think I just fried mine (I am getting 24 volts in and nothing lights up) and am in dire need of one, or at least the main board inside. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!
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Iaknown,
You most likely blew the small fuse inside the pendant. Open it up and you will find the fuse in a replaceable fuse holder. If that fuse is good then you blew the MAX831CWE voltage regulator. This is a 16-pin surface mount device. You can actually changes these yourself if you have soldering skills. The problem is the MAX831 chip has been discontinued so you will have to look for a pin for pin compatible replacement if you determine the fuse is good. My guess is you blew the fuse. :) Hope this helps.
Russ
;D
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Iaknown,
You most likely blew the small fuse inside the pendant. Open it up and you will find the fuse in a replaceable fuse holder. If that fuse is good then you blew the MAX831CWE voltage regulator. This is a 16-pin surface mount device. You can actually changes these yourself if you have soldering skills. The problem is the MAX831 chip has been discontinued so you will have to look for a pin for pin compatible replacement if you determine the fuse is good. My guess is you blew the fuse. :) Hope this helps.
Russ
;D
Russ, Thanks so much for the info! This sounds like a start. Unfortunately my fuse is good :-( I had checked it when I took the pendant apart. Now before I go any further, I'd like to make sure I am checking the correct terminals when I say I am getting power. I read 24v between terminals 1 and 7 on the plug, does this sound correct? If so at least something should light up, like the background on the lcd screen right? (it did before at some point). I am good with soldering, just don't know much about circuit boards, so I think I could handle replacing that regulator but have no clue how to find a replacement. First off, what does it look like? Thanks in advance for any help, Dave
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Oh, my board actually looks like the board on the left above, would it still have the same voltage regulator??
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Yes, the picture on the left side is the standard board inside the pendant. The two screw terminals with the wires coming from the cable should be the 24V inputs.
When you check out the diagram for the MAX831 IC you will note the following information which will help you trouble shoot the pendant.
Voltage Input to the regulator (24V) should be seen on pins 1,2,3,4
Voltage Ouput should be (5VDC) found on pins 13,14,15,16
Ground is on pins 5,7,10,12
MAX831
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/73816/MAXIM/MAX831CWE.html
I would first check the voltage across the two screw terminals in the pendant and make sure you see the 24VDC.
The check the voltage on the regulator to determine if it is working correctly. If you see 5V coming out of the regulator you have a bigger problem.
I will see if there is a compatible chip that can be used as a replacement.
Russ
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Oh, the screw terminals?? I thought they were for cable shielding or something the way they went to the cables. I'm not sure I checked them so let me start there. Man I hope it is just an incoming voltage problem, that would be great. Thanks so much, you've been a big help already and I will keep you posted.
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WRONG INFO...
I went down and decided to do some quick testing for you.
The 24V lead coming into the pendant from the cable actually is the WHITE wire connected to PIN#1 of CN4 the white connector. This actually runs through the on board fuse and then it run to Diode D27 which in turn feeds the MAX831 voltage regulator actually a DC to DC switching regulator to be exact. The digital ground apparently is the thin BROWN wire which is connected to PIN#4 of the CN4 connector.
You are correct the two screw terminal are actually the shield on the pendant cable, never really looked that close just saw them next to the voltage regulator and assumed they would be the input lines. WRONG. LOL
I tried to find alternates for the MAX831 regulator and no dice. This unit actually outputs 1A and you can not find anything with this type package and pinout that does the same job. Actually if you have to replace the regulator because it is not working I would go an alternate route. If you find it is actually bad you can carefully cut the leads of the device and then use a soldering iron to remove the left over leadwires. This way you will not destroy the pads on the board. If you do not have a hot air pump this is the safest method to replace SMT devices. Now you know the input voltage comes on the left side of the device on pins 1-4, and the output is on the right side of the device on pins 13-16 so you could carefully install a three terminal regulator and then tie the center ground lead with a short wire. The previous regulator had sense leads and such but you would not really require these are you can get the 5V without that type of regulator. Just my two cents for a cheap fix. Verify if you are getting 24V to pin 1 and then to the fuse and then to D27 on both sides. If you do not see the 24V on the input pins of the MAX831 good chance the diode is bad. With a few measurements you should be able to pin point the problem pretty quick.
Hope this helps
Russ
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Dave,
Another piece of information. I discovered the following:
CN4 the white connector the thin BROWN wire is actually tied to the BLACK wire on PIN#7 of the connector and they are both GROUND. They tied to pins #10 and #15 on the round connector at the end of the pendant cable. The WHITE wire on PIN#1 (24V) ties directly to PIN#14 in the round connector at the end of the cable. You can see the numbers if you look in at the end of the round connector the blue plastic has the number embossed.
Let me know what you find out.
Russ
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Crap, I was hoping it was something as easy as input power lacking. I am pretty sure I am getting power and ground to those terminals but let me doublecheck. Thanks again Russ. I will keep you posted.
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Take some quick measurements.
Use the ground pin #4,#7 and put the other end of the meter on the top left of the MAX831 device. If you look closely at the PCB you will see these leads 1-4 are all tied together so you will not short something out. You should measure 24V on the left side of the device. If you get the 24V there then move the probe to the opposite side of the device you can see those top four pins are also connected together 13-16 and you should see 5V. If you see no voltage on the right side the regulator is dead. This should be a very quick test.
Russ
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Will do this afternoon, thanks!
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Russ, yup looks like I killed it. There is 24v incoming but only mV on the 5v side. Man, I thought I could solder it no problem but wow those terminals are small! ... not sure if I can swing that.
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Dave,
Yeah there are 16 tiny pins on the device. Here is my advice on how to proceed. You need a very tiny pair of wire cutters, sometimes you can find very tiny ones that are pointed in nail sets or if you have access to an electronic supply store. You do not want the pair you would find at Home Depot way too big. New you will clip the leads one at a time and carefully use a tiny screw driver or pointed instrument to turn the legs up. When you get done the device will release from the board but you will be left with cut legs soldered to the board. Then you will need a tiny pair of tweesers and you will heat each joint one at a time and remove the severed leg. This will make the unit ready for the replacement part. I can look around again and see if I can find the MAXIM device but this is probably going to be very difficult. You can actually solder a tiny surface mount three terminal regulator that handles 5V @ 1A in place of the MAXIM device.
Do you have a tiny soldering iron? Where do you live? Do you know anyone who has SMT soldering equipment? Lots of options available, just depends on your techical ability. Surface mount parts are repairable and replaceable but you must have a magnifier glass and a steady hand and PATIENCE. LOL
Russ
:D
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Russ, I live in NJ, USA. Please tell me you're in the US too...I would have no problem sending it to you and paying you for it if you would be interested. I just found out a mainboard fried on the machine too so now I have that to worry about. By the time I locate the equipment and all you'd probably have it done lol. Let me know. Thanks for all your help, Dave
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Dave,
I live in Columbus Ohio area so not that far away. LOL. Send me an email at this address rdlarson@wowway.com
Russ
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Russ, for some reason your email keeps kicking back mine, I get a delivery failure. Have another email address?
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Dave,
Got your emails and photos, so not sure why Wowway is sending you those kind of messages. Let me know if you getting my responses and if that is not working I will send you another email address.
Russ
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Hi Russ and Dave,
Just curious here....
I was wondering how this situation turned out. Were the parts able to be repaired or replaced?
Was the problem solved? If so, I'd like to know the story's conclusion. ;)
Thanks,
John Meissner
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John, Yes, Russ was able to help me out. If I remember correctly, the part he needed was obsolete but he was able to rig something else to work....and it is still working to this day. If you can get a hold of him he can probably tell you more....
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Bloy,
Sorry I did not see this post from long ago. I did fix that pendant and others. I am working on the MACH4 implementation of the same pendant right now.
Russ