An other "Auto Tool Zero" question.

[gene8522]

When I press Auto Tool Zero my Z moves up, not down like it should.
This is the VB Code I have used for some time, but it has stopped working.

Message( "Auto Zeroing..." )
If IsSuchSignal (22) Then
code "G31 Z-3 F20"
While IsMoving()
Wend
Call SetDRO( 2, .060 )
code "G1 Z1"
End If

I have checked all the wiring, probe plate and settings so many time, that now I am getting confused about what I've checked and not checked.


 

[Greolt]

The code relies on the Z axis being above -3 when started.

If for example the Z DRO read -4 when starting the code, it would travel up to -3.  Perhaps this is what you are seeing.

If that was the case then adding some lines like this could help

DoOEMButton (1010) 'zero the Z axis so the probe move will start from here
Sleep 100 'Pause for Dro to update.
Code "G90 G31 Z-3 F20"

Greg

[ger21]

Also, if noise triggers your probe input, it will move to Z1, thinking it's finished. If it stops at Z=1, then it's possibly noise.

[gene8522]

Also, if noise triggers your probe input, it will move to Z1, thinking it's finished. If it stops at Z=1, then it's possibly noise.

I have noticed on the "Diagnostics" page that the probe LED does flash, for no apparent reason. Do you know any reasons for the noise.  I have been through the wires more than once. I may try to run temporary wires to the probe plate. But it will have to wait..............I have been at this sense 5:30am.

[HimyKabibble]

Try adding a pull-up resistor (300 ohms or so) to +5V to the probe input.

Regards,
Ray L.

[gene8522]

Try adding a pull-up resistor (300 ohms or so) to +5V to the probe input.

Regards,
Ray L.

Thanks Ray I'll try the resistor.............. I knew someone would be able to help me here on the forum..................

[ger21]

A lot of people add a .1uf or .01uf capacitor across the input pin

[gene8522]

Also, if noise triggers your probe input, it will move to Z1, thinking it's finished. If it stops at Z=1, then it's possibly noise.

I did notice that the Z moves up about an inch and stops. So I'm sure this is probable the problem.
The last time I used the CNC, about a month ago, it would not Auto Z Zero but I didn't have time to check for a reason. I had been using Auto Z Zero for months with out any troubles.
The problem came up again when I was trying to install "Mach3 2010 Screenset"  I could not get Auto Z Zero to work with the 2010 screenset. Even though I chased the cause for hours. I was sure I must have some setting set wrong. Finely changed back to Mach3 screenset looking for help. But I could not get "Auto Z Zero" working. ( Must be a setting in the program, right?) I finely game to the forum for help, I new someone here would be able to help.......

[ger21]

If you have issues with the 2010 screenset, shoot me an email, or PM, or just ask in the forum threads (links at the bottom of my web page). I could have pointed you in the right direction pretty quickly. Noise is a fairly common occurrence, and other than bad Mach3 versions, noise is usually the only reason that the Auto Zero doesn't work.

[gene8522]

I took ger21's advice and stopped at Fry's on the way home from work and picked up a .1uf capacitor and added it to the wires leading to the Z probe plate. The probe light on the "Diagnostics" page stopped flashing and the Auto Z Zero works like it should. Thanks to all for your replies. Now I can get back to installing Mach3 2010 screenset.