Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
May 27, 2012, 07:40:26 PM

Login with username, password and session length
Search:     Advanced search
* Home Help Search Calendar Links Login Register
+  Machsupport Forum
|-+  Mach Discussion
| |-+  General Mach Discussion
| | |-+  Tool setting....?
Pages: 1   Go Down
Print
Author Topic: Tool setting....?  (Read 487 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
jevs
Active Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 31


View Profile
« on: April 08, 2011, 12:38:31 AM »

I need to get something to do tool setting. I have a tool changer and I think it would be better than trying to do it manually.

Should I get one of these dedicated to tool setting?

http://www.wildhorse-innovations.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=80

http://www.imsrv.com/deskcnc/probe.htm

Or should I get something else, and what would it be?

Basically I want to buy a tool setter and a touch probe, and I want to know my best bet.  I dont want to use either as dual purpse do to setup and the constant need for each.

They dont really say how accurate these are or if one is better than the other, or maybe I should get something else for tool setting?
Logged
Hood
Active Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 17,366


Carnoustie, Scotland


View Profile
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2011, 01:54:01 AM »

Do a search for Auto tool zero
Lots of people are just using a pice of copper clad pcb board.
Hood
Logged
jevs
Active Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 31


View Profile
« Reply #2 on: April 08, 2011, 07:43:35 AM »

Yeah I seen those posts. How accurate is that though and is there risk to damaging something since there is no "spring" area? Is there any advantage to using the actual tool setter vs the copper clad pcb?
Logged
Tweakie.CNC
Active Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 3,263


Super Kitty.


View Profile WWW
« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2011, 07:54:06 AM »

As long as the approach is slow there is no problem with tool damage and copper clad board. The probing script stores the exact touch point whilst the axis drive is stopped, the overrun is only a thou, perhaps less and the surface of the copper clad takes this easily, Mach then returns the axis to the touch point plus whatever you have chosen for tool clearance so the accuracy is good. The probing script has to be right though, there is no room for error (spring loaded stuff) but, I haven't broken a 1mm endmill yet (but tomorrow is another day and who knows ?  Grin )

Tweakie.
Logged

Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.  Winston Churchill.
ostie01
Active Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 563


View Profile
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2011, 02:30:15 PM »

I haven't broken a 1mm endmill yet Tweakie.


You use a laser Tweakie, you can't break end mill Grin Grin Grin
Logged
TramAlot
Active Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 129


View Profile
« Reply #5 on: April 10, 2011, 02:50:34 AM »

The probe from IM is great, I like it so much I have two, 1 for tool setting and 1 for probing (the tool does both, but takes time to switch physical setup).

I keep the probe in a toolholder and have it in the tool table for everything from probing to just finding an edge.

The toolsetter is great if you break a tool mid job, 2 minutes or less and your back to chips Smiley

I think it's on sale?

nice people too.....
Logged
jevs
Active Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 31


View Profile
« Reply #6 on: April 10, 2011, 01:07:27 PM »

I bought two of the ones from Wildhorse. I will also use one as a tool setter and the other as a probe. Two of those is still less than one of the IM ones. I am not sure if the IM is any better?
Logged
HimyKabibble
V4 Screen Contributor

Offline Offline

Posts: 1,347



View Profile
« Reply #7 on: April 10, 2011, 01:26:24 PM »

Yeah I seen those posts. How accurate is that though and is there risk to damaging something since there is no "spring" area? Is there any advantage to using the actual tool setter vs the copper clad pcb?

I use a circle of PCB material, mounted by its edge.  So, when Mach's probing routine loses its mind (which it sometimes does), and tries to drive the tool through the PCB, the PCB just breaks, and I put in a new piece.

If you use tool holders with some kind of a reasonable reference surface (i.e. - CAT, ISO, etc.), you can just use a simple height gauge.

Regards,
Ray L.
Logged

Regards,
Ray L.
Pages: 1   Go Up
Print
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.16 | SMF © 2011, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!